| [ Total Views: 833 | Total Replies: 12 | Thread Id: 84244 ] |
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 type3lover
A.k.a.: The Smashed Repairer
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 12:21 AM |
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play in front wheel due to lower front beam problem
Not sure what to do here...looks like it is happening between the lower torsion arm and where it goes into the beam.
Anyone had any experience with this problem?
Thanks 
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type3lover
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 12:23 AM |
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Balljoint type 3 might help...it's late!
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1303Steve
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 12:42 AM |
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Hi
The sway bar on the Type 3 is internal and often comes loose.
Steve
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type3lover
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 12:54 AM |
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Hey cheers for the idea Steve. Everything is tight. The sway bar seems nice and tight all round. Unfortunately it's not on the top but on the bottom
where the trouble is.
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 matberry
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 03:18 AM |
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The beam bushes and bearings is an area that gets worn out and often overlooked.
I am presently repairing a beetle with the issue.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Special Air Service
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 08:45 PM |
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Yeah, had a ball joint beetle with the same dramas. Inner bearing surface on the trailing arm was very worn. Due to many years of abuse & lack of
lubrication by the young male driver who was only interested in getting to the surf as often as he could & had no time for routine maintenance.
(me)
Cheers
Brendan
[size=5] Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers
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[size=6]Mid North
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matberry
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| posted on June 13th, 2010 at 08:53 PM |
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Yep, it's a problen for all trailing arm beams, Type 1, 2 and 3. Been getting these repaired for years. I use Delrin bushings that are twice the size
of the original so that if the arm is worn, as is often the case, it doesn't ceate too much of a problem.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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type3lover
A.k.a.: The Smashed Repairer
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| posted on June 14th, 2010 at 02:06 AM |
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Thanks for the replies fellas!
Yep I think I need to strip the beam and have the bearings and bushings replaced but I don't really know much about it.
What are my options to fix this as far as stock replacement parts go or are there better aftermarket alternatives perhaps?
btw it's only done 48000 miles and looked well greased when i removed the trailing arms etc to clean and grease them and adjust ride height 6 or 7
years ago
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 vw54
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| posted on June 14th, 2010 at 08:00 AM |
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try the sway bar first it has lock tabs that sometimes appear to be tight but they aint
i have had same problems just tighten up and make sure the lock tab is good
i drilled the bolt head a used tie wire for extra secure
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vw54
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| posted on June 14th, 2010 at 08:01 AM |
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should say loosen as well before re tighten and make sure its all sitting in correct place
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matberry
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| posted on June 14th, 2010 at 07:29 PM |
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Yep as Dave has said, but if the beam bushes are flogged, it's normally the inner bush and arm that go first.
Availability....yep no problems, NOT. 
Seen n used some urethane bushes for k/l beetle but was terrible, too tight, car had a ride like a brick.
Custom engineered is the only war IMO.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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vw54
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| posted on June 14th, 2010 at 07:51 PM |
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if you pull the torsion arms you will see the wear but check the inner sway bar first
the type 3 front ends are solid but if they aint been grease then they will wear
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type3lover
A.k.a.: The Smashed Repairer
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| posted on June 15th, 2010 at 12:51 PM |
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Thank you Matt and Dave
Locking tabs...are they those funny shaped things that I left off because at the time I couldn't see what possible use they had? 
It's deffo the lower part of the beam. When on a hoist I was able to see the play there when pushing on the tyre.
Probably would have helped if I mentioned that earlier eh?
Custom engineered...whoa where to start with that!?
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