| [ Total Views: 1107 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 85344 ] |
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 greeno72
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| posted on August 13th, 2010 at 08:02 PM |
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floor pan painting
how much por would you use do do a pan,front beam and rear suspension
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vlad01
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| posted on August 13th, 2010 at 08:24 PM |
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I would be thinking 4 L most likely.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 14th, 2010 at 03:00 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by greeno72
how much por would you use do do a pan,front beam and rear suspension
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I used every bit of 1L to do this. That's three coats on the pan and beam, and the rear suspension bits like spring plates, covers etc.
It doesn't seem like alot but the paint goes a very long way, it was surprising.
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on August 14th, 2010 at 08:19 AM |
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I was just planning on using black 2-pac paint... Is POR much better? where did you get t and how much is it? Cheers
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 14th, 2010 at 01:24 PM |
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It's probably one of the best products out for rust prevention, provided you use it correctly.
There is an online supplier, but I bought mine from a local welding shop.
This is the site of the Australian supplier of POR15
http://www.ppcco.com.au/restoration.htm?gclid=CMb6goCCuKMCFRepbwodjTXGaw
And this is a very similar product that is Australian made.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/
Smiley
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Newt
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| posted on August 14th, 2010 at 08:55 PM |
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Was that 3 coats by brush or by spray?
Newt
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on August 14th, 2010 at 09:35 PM |
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I pretty much used 1L to do paint my pan, 3 coats by paintbrush top and underneath. I agree it does seem to go a fair way. I wouldnt buy any more than
you have to, as it goes off very quickly even with resealing the tin air-tight. I would recommend buying 1L, and maybe a 250/500mL tin just in case,
which you could then use for other bits and /or touch-ups.
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shaihulud
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| posted on August 15th, 2010 at 11:19 AM |
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I've hand painted two pans with Killrust Gloss Black which is available from your local hardware store at a very reasonable price.
I use about 1 litre to give the pan and suspension two coats.
I use a good quality, long bristled 2 inch paint brush which by the time the job is over is looking a big ragged as I daub the paint into all the
nooks and crannies.
The first coat is thinned down enough to be sprayed on, to make sure that it goes everywhere.
The second coat, which is not thinned, is applied just before the first coat dries so that they both stick well to each other.
The second coat is slathered on to get as thick a coat as possible.
It takes a few days to dry as the pant is so thick. I usually give it about a week in the sun.
So far that has worked well for me.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on August 15th, 2010 at 04:15 PM |
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lol,
am i the only guy that has ever used hammer coat on a pan? 
I love the texture, it hides aesthetic flaws and suppose to be excellent rust protection. it goes a long way.
Mind you, i can only recall me bein the one to use it. POR for the win with its reputation though.  can't exceed it.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 15th, 2010 at 10:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Newt
Was that 3 coats by brush or by spray?
Newt
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With a brush, and quick thickly applied on the last coat. Just to use up the last of what was in the tin.
Smiley
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Newt
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| posted on August 15th, 2010 at 11:10 PM |
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Thanks Smiley,
Did you put colour over the top of the POR 15?
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 16th, 2010 at 01:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Newt
Thanks Smiley,
Did you put colour over the top of the POR 15?
Cheers
Newt
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hahahahahahaha, no
It's a dodgy old Baja
But you can. hough you have to remember POR 15 isn't UV stable, that is when left in the sun it fades very quickly. It doesn't ruin the sealing or
rust preventative properties in any way, just the colour.
When I do my Buggy I'm probably going to topcoat it because I can see it seeing alot more sun and I want it to look it's best.
It is also recommended in the painting instructions if you leave it more than 12 hours that you rough it up with sandpaper (can't remember the grit).
Because POR 15 loves having a rough surface to grab onto. I've found the best results with parts that I've sandblasted first, left out in the
weather for a few days to get surface rust then painting. The paint actually loves being applied over light surface rust, they recommend it!!
On the other side of the coin it doesn't stick very well to very smooth surfaces. And I have had a little bit peel off galvanised metal, which I used
for the side rails on my floorpan.
You can also have a read through my build diary from page 7 when I started painting.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=80275&page=7
Hope this helps.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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LOWBUG
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| posted on August 16th, 2010 at 08:01 PM |
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Done a few pans with por15 now, not sure about leaving blasted metal to rust first though. Great product has the rust control and prevent factor and
because it moisture cures takes awhile to harden propery, but when it does it is extremely hard.
Brushing is the easiest way, the product flows for quiet a while so looks like spray painted when dry. Be careful read instructions and any data sheet
you can get, if old pan and not blasting, look at the metal treatment deoxidising system first to neutralise surface rust.
Have fun, oh and by the way clean it off your hands straight away, if it drys its there till it wares off, maybe ware gloves.
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privatelux
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| posted on August 21st, 2010 at 08:42 AM |
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It does say on the instructions not to use a rust neutraliser product first as it will effect the stickability of the POR15. Just paint it straight
onto the surface rust. Well thats what it says.
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