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Author: Subject:  Vapour lock
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posted on November 11th, 2010 at 10:46 PM
Vapour lock


I have been having trouble maybe once or twice a year for years with what appears to be a vapour lock after a short stop (5 mins. or so) on a long trip in warm weather (in at least the last 3 engines - possibly the same fuel pump though).
When I start off again, I get as far as the fuel that is in the Kadrons, then run out. If I am going fast enough, it will often pump more fuel through before I stop, but if I am going slow or have to stop, I have to pump it through with the starter, which can often take a while.
A similar thing happens if I run out of fuel - it takes ages to pump through to the Kads.
The last month or so, the starter has started cranking slow, and I have been worried it was my battery going - it has let me down twice in 2 weeks - once was a vapour lock after stopping at Taree for a few minutes, and again a week later when I ran out of fuel 50m from the servo in Kew. Both times I needed a tow (only for 50m or so) to pump the fuel through to start it as the battery ran out on me.
This afternoon I went to an auto electrician to get the battery checked etc. He checked the battery and reckons it was OK. He reckons the starter bushes are possibly worn - suggested oiling them and see if it impoved them in the short term. We ran out of time, or he would have also checked the charge rate.
When I went to leave, I didn't have enough battery to start it again, so he started it with a battery pack. I left it running while I put the back seat and all my gear back in, but when I went to go, the Kads emptied and no battery left to pump fuel through. The auto elec. had left by then.
Called the NRMA, and Peter, the bloke that came (was a beetle fan) just hooked the bulb pump off an outboard motor between my fuel pump and the carby splitter and pumped fuel into them that way - got to get me one. The battery had recovered enough by then to start it. I was heaps impressed by this pump idea.
However, I better try and sort this 'vapour lock' problem - will get the fuel pump checked first up. I think the fuel lines are OK, they are braided stainless. Anyone have any other ideas of what may be causing this?.




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posted on November 11th, 2010 at 10:59 PM



Hi Jeff

Maybe the pushrod is jamming in the fibre block. Is it an original style pump, they are always poor pumpers on the starter motor.

Go electric but get one of the ones that Vintage sell that have anti drain.

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yes.gif posted on November 11th, 2010 at 11:01 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by beetleboyjeff

Called the NRMA, and Peter, the bloke that came (was a beetle fan) just hooked the bulb pump off an outboard motor between my fuel pump and the carby splitter and pumped fuel into them that way - got to get me one. The battery had recovered enough by then to start it. I was heaps impressed by this pump idea.
However, I better try and sort this 'vapour lock' problem - will get the fuel pump checked first up. I think the fuel lines are OK, they are braided stainless. Anyone have any other ideas of what may be causing this?.


Hi Jeff

stick an electric pump in... no worries then... lol

cheers

LEE




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info.gif posted on November 11th, 2010 at 11:04 PM



Hi Steve,

the one I have is a black round plastic one...
also have a spare the same....

Mine is sitting under the fuel tank...
and it has a switch under the dash to switch it on or off...

Jeff
do You have a so called hot start relay near the battery or starter motor?
they also help start the engine fast....
although they won't help if You have no fuel... lol

cheers

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posted on November 12th, 2010 at 06:28 AM



check the Vent line on the fuel tank and make sure you can blow air through it its the real small one

I had one blocked once before and it would stop the car




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posted on November 12th, 2010 at 09:21 AM



Also check the tank filter screen and front flex line to pan, sometimes a slow kink can do it. Otherwise, check fuel pressure ans flow rate from your pump, possibly too short in the pushrod, this changes if the dissy drive washers/shims get changed during your engine o/hauls.



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posted on November 12th, 2010 at 12:28 PM



I did really want to keep the original fuel pump, but when this one plays up, an electric one does sound good.

The current one is original style, so I will check the pushrod length and the sticking in the fibre block trick.

I should change the front fuel filter, it is nearly due, but as it only happens after I stop, and not when on full noise, even for extended periods. As it has been happening on rare occasions for years, I can't see it being a kink or filter problem either.

I have checked the vent pipe before, but not for a long time - I think that may be a good thing to double check.




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posted on November 12th, 2010 at 12:38 PM



Just thinking about the vent pipe, I actually had the fuel cap off at Kew when I was trying to start it, as I was hoping to drive up the driveway to the servo next door and fill up, so I cant see it being that.

Will still check it though.




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info.gif posted on November 12th, 2010 at 03:39 PM



COULD HAVE SOMETHING FLOATING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK jEFF..

I have seen that happen a lot in the USA....

and why keep the old fuel pump Jeff?

maybe something is inside the pump causing the valve to stick open???

LEE




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posted on November 12th, 2010 at 07:22 PM



I found bugs a small bee, a wasp and a few flys inside my tank on the first dub I owned.



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posted on November 12th, 2010 at 07:38 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Also check the tank filter screen.


He'll go nuts looking for that one :lol:

they never put them in Lbugs instead they ran inline plastic filters
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posted on November 13th, 2010 at 08:06 AM



Woops, L bug........doh

Thanks Joel...........




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posted on November 13th, 2010 at 09:05 AM



It is only about 3 years since I had the tank out when I had the car re-sprayed, and I always take the opportunity to clean the tanke when I have it out.

I have heard of things in the tank blocking up the outlet, but usually it stops the car while it is going, then floats away while it is stopped, only to get sucked in again later when going again. Mine does it the other way, occurs after a stop.

I have ended up home this weekend (thought I was going to be working all weekend) so I will look at these things then (I the boss gives me time - she has a list for me - bugger).




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posted on November 13th, 2010 at 05:08 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by beetleboyjeff

I have heard of things in the tank blocking up the outlet, but usually it stops the car while it is going, then floats away while it is stopped, only to get sucked in again later when going again.

Mine does it the other way, occurs after a stop.





YOU MUST HAVE THE TANK IN UPSIDE DOWN JEFF.... lol:lol::lol:

LEE





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posted on November 13th, 2010 at 05:48 PM



Jeff if you want a starter bush or another starter to try give me a call.Cheers Les
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yes.gif posted on November 13th, 2010 at 10:03 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by beetleboyjeff
Just thinking about the vent pipe, I actually had the fuel cap off at Kew when I was trying to start it, as I was hoping to drive up the driveway to the servo next door and fill up, so I cant see it being that.

Will still check it though.



WELL, WE KNOW ITS A FUEL PROBLEM JEFF..
AS BOTH CARBIES ARE BEING EMPTIED..

THE OLD "PUT THE FUEL PUMP OUTLET HOSE INTO A PLASTIC BUCKET "TRICK IS NEXT... LOL

CHEERS

LEE


I was just thinking too Jeff..
that Your fuel tank is probably below the pump level
where NON SUPERS had the tank much higher...
probably doesn't really mean much... lol




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posted on November 13th, 2010 at 10:52 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
YOU MUST HAVE THE TANK IN UPSIDE DOWN JEFF.... lol:lol::lol:

LEE




No, I think the reason is that as a 75, it was brought into Australia KDC, so I am guessing that in my case, it is a tank that was supposed to go into a car from the other side of the world (maybe Europe?), so it just thinks it is upside down (sometimes). lol

OLD "PUT THE FUEL PUMP OUTLET HOSE INTO A PLASTICBUCKET "TRICK IS NEXT... LOLrnrnCHEERSrnrnLEErn

Do you mean to try this to see if it is pumping? It usually does pump OK when I have tried that (not when it has a vapour lock though - if that is what the problem is).

rnrnI was just thinking too Jeff..rnthat Your fuel tank is probably below the pump levelrnwhere NON SUPERS had the tank much higher...rnprobably doesn't really mean much... lol

The tank is a little lower on the top maybe, but not much if any. In any case, they still usually work when going up hill.




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posted on November 13th, 2010 at 10:59 PM



Hi Lee

I think that the tanks in Supers would be higher than a standard bug.

I fitted an electric pump in an old 72 1300 that I had, thinking that I could use it as a fuel cutoff for anti theft. You could turn the pump off and it had virtually no affect, the car would drive but only develop a flat spot.

The one that I have in my sons bug looks a bit like an EFI pump, turn it off and there is no fuel flow, I had a Facet pump in my old yellow super and it would stop the fuel flow when turned off as well.

Steve
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posted on November 24th, 2010 at 09:15 PM



Well it looks like I have fixed the starter. I took it out on the weekend, and the 2 big machine screws that go through it (see attached photo) were loose - 1 was loose 8 or 10 mm. Hasn't turned over this fast for ages.

I haven't had a chance to do anything about the vapour lock (or whatever is happening) yet - but I have done 3 trips between Newcastle and Orange in the lase week and a half, and no problems. Aaaaahhh (he screams in frustration).

I haven't looke at the fuel pump yet - been too busy working, and driving the bug.

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posted on November 25th, 2010 at 05:48 AM



you didnt use silastic any where on the tank did you ???



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posted on November 25th, 2010 at 12:22 PM



No, I have never done that.

I cleaned the tank out while I had it out of the car when I had the car re-sprayed about 4 years ago.




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