| [ Total Views: 3893 | Total Replies: 18 | Thread Id: 87353 ] |
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 Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on November 27th, 2010 at 01:02 PM |
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EA Flacon rear brake conversion for IRS Beetle
Hi all, (my cars in the link below)
i am just about to embark on my own EA Falcon conversion and would love it if i do somthing wrong or you have any ideas, that you help out.
After trying to find some super cheap hubs to start with i think i will go with the ones from ISP West...
they should give me a good staring point. They are listed on the ISP sie for $125ea.
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From there i should be able to purchase some EA Falcon rotors for $72 ea from my local store, anyone know any better deals.
I can get slotted for $143 ea but have been told they wont make enough difference. That helps my save about $140 so if they make a good difference let
me know.
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Sunbury brakes do the EA calipers rebuilt for $220 a pair. Can i recond them myself???? If i can they will ony cost $22 from a local wrecker....
Safety is failry important and i cannot buy them new but hey if its a simple rebuild mayby i can save some costs here too... Impressions?
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The rear caliper mount can be machined to fit fairly well on the VW diagional arm. I need to open the hole up to the same size as the standard drum
brake backing plate opening. Tig weld the original holes and drill new ones to suit and then they bolt on.
I have heard they are about 2mm too thick though so i need to machine the caliper mount down by 1mm on each side??? I have heard that i can instead
take 2mm off the oil seal (metal plate) that holds it all together???
Can someone help me with this one?
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Pads... $132 ultimate pads by bendix????????????????
reccomendations? i have seen green stuff too? Rmember i am building a race and street driven car
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Handbrake i need to do some work on but i don think its too bad. let me know
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I am planning on running 15x7 Cookie cuters at this stage
so i press in the appropriate wheel studs
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And now i am reading on an American site that braided brake lines will make abig difference to pedal feel and fade. There was a guy in here selling
sets of brided brake lines for $175. Can anyon point him out again? thanks
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STIDUB
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| posted on November 27th, 2010 at 06:47 PM |
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mat berry for the lines, i believe rota australia was selling them from their shop on the sunny coast thru ebay though, since he's up that way logic
says his are the same but not sure personally
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
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Flintstones
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| posted on November 27th, 2010 at 08:31 PM |
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Your on the right path.
The caliper bracket mount is, as you've discovered, easy to mod in order to get good rear brakes
The only other thing you'll need to make is a handbrake mount from memory, and that aint to hard to make, considering you've already figured out the
rest
Cheers
D
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 28th, 2010 at 08:47 AM |
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Ok
You need EA caliper carriers. These need to have the hole in the center enlarged to the size of the VW drum backing plate so they will then fit over
the mounting point on the trailing arm, tight!
The falcon mounting holes need to be TIG welded and the 4 holes drilled so the VW bearing cap can then be bolted on. Now here opinions
differ.......seeing as the welded carriers will now need facing smooth (welded areas) anyway i would shave down the carrier to the thickness of the VW
backing making it a bolt on affair. However some prefer to mill down the bearing cap rather than the carrier. This needs to be done either way so the
bearing has the proper fit into the cap. IMHO the carrier strength is not affected by this, when you look at them first hand this is obvious
There are also some "drain" nicks in this area of the carrier that need TIG and smoothing
The type 3 drive flange's outside diameter will not fit inside the EA rotor, so it needs to be turned down to provide a snug fit in the ford
rotor.
The locating hole on the center of the VW brake drum is larger than that of the ford disc rotor.........and as such the disc will not locate flush on
the drive flange. To enable this, the VW drive flange (or after market universal thickness) will need the locating flange on its face lathed to the
smaller diameter of the ford/ea disc rotor.
All good, you now have a caliper bracket that mounts up nice and a modified drive flange that accomodates the standard ford disc rotor. On mine i
didn't start with blank rotors, so i used all of the five ford holes with counter sink allen head studs as the disc/flange locators.
Using blank rotors and flanges there is room for both 4 & 5 X 130 stud patterns
The ford brake hose is nice and flexible and connects straight to the VW steel line with out modification, hell it even fits the VW steel brake line
positoning eye and the standard clip holds it in place as if it was a VW part.
Be sure to have both ends of any hard brake line suppoted with a bracket. OTHERWISE vibrations will cause it to BREAK.... GUARANTEED! Believe me on
this one, i've experienced it.
Yes braided lines are great to help pedal feel and firmness and its Matt Berry with them for the vw. Keep in mind you will need the ford ones on top
of them too. No point doing only 4 of the 6. Interestingly both my cars with these brakes have quite a doey pedal and i think its cause of the ea soft
lines. Probably not an issue in falcons due to the power assist. Dont get me wrong, work great just not a rock hard touchy pedal.
Standard hand brake cables need to be spaced out around 15mm. This is easily done be welding a length of tube that the VW cable will slip into....onto
the ford calipers cable guide.
The ford and vw handbrake levers move at different ratios. So if you connect the cable to the end of the hanbrake lever at the ford caliper, the
rachet on the VW hand brake in the cockpit will run out of travel before the brakes are clamped enough to hold the car.........to change these
operating ratios, the handbrake cable mounting point needs to be shifted up the "pull" lever at the caliper end, thus providing more travel for
the same movement in the cockpit........
Couple of ways to do this. Either cut a well shapped "nick" into the ford lever or use a hole and bolt to locate the VW cable onto the pull lever or
welding part if a VW arm for the drums onto the ford lever........either way you will need the full length of the ford lever at the caliper so the
return spring still pulls the handbrake OFF when its time to hit the road.
The falcon caliper is a tricky thing compared to our vws. The hand brake lever operates with a ratchet system to keep adjustment up as the pads wear.
Once the lever goes past a point when pads wear, it ratchets a notch so the pistons dont return as far. When its time for new pads a special tool is
used to "rewind" the piston back out. Care needs to be taken when working with the lever so not to cause the pads to trail or even lock the rotor.
When all done you dont want to be consistently pulling the hand brake on any further than enough to hold the car.
Slotted rotors rid the area of gases for maximum braking, so yes any added braking when racing is a good thing.........better wet performance too.
Pads will need upgrading if you are going to race.....you may find the standard ones adequate for short corses without many
applications........however they will melt under consistant extreme stopping. there are many options and you will find race specialists that can
provide pads that will operate best cold or at medium temperatures...........or be shite until heat is induced and when at this operational temp, stop
better and better 
if i can get this computer fixed i'll back all this up with pics if it helps. i'm doing another set of these at the moment too
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cnfabo
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| posted on November 28th, 2010 at 10:21 AM |
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nice info daimo, i have the conversion parts sitting around in a box....just need new rotors.........seems easy enough to do.....
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vwo60
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| posted on November 29th, 2010 at 10:35 AM |
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You must be carfull you do not over brake the rear of the car, i have a set of these on my 60 beetle and on the front i have a set that i made using a
set of 4 spot calipers and a 300mm vented rotor, i machined a billet aluminium hub and had the brake system engineered, it has perfect brake bias with
the standard master cylinder, you will probably need to increase the front braking to match.
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 29th, 2010 at 10:41 AM |
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I agree, from what i have heard though, the front braking with a new type 3 caliper and pads is suitable. I will probably intall a bias/ proportioning
valve though just to see where i sit. The last thing i want in an emergency braking situation is to throw the rear end around unpredictably.
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cnfabo
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| posted on November 29th, 2010 at 10:34 PM |
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porsche 914's came with the same type 3 caliper.a upgrade that they used to do was use a caliper from a bmw 320i model,same bolt spacing as the
bigger t3 caliper and also 12mm thick rotor..i rang a wrecker here in perth, $65 each in working condition..yee,i know what im doing for the front....
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vlad01
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| posted on November 29th, 2010 at 10:54 PM |
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what about this thread? call the guy selling these kits and see if he still makes them.
Kits are ford rear brake conversion and Holden vented front kit.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=68055&page=2#pid709528
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on December 29th, 2010 at 09:03 AM |
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I can get hubs and caliper brackets made if that helps.......and a lot cheaper too 
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 29th, 2010 at 10:07 PM |
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cheers craig cheapest I could see it happening for was about 800 bucks so I have gone a cheap empi bolt on setup for now... Don't curse too much, I
can spec up later if no good. 400 for the whole rear including hbrake cables was too good and just had to keep the project moving
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on January 10th, 2011 at 04:49 PM |
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on the rear. Try hellbugged he has done this
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Fastie
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| posted on January 10th, 2011 at 06:24 PM |
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I've just purchased a kit from VWCOOL on the above link. In all seriousness he has developed a wicked package with a lot of R&D and very good
value compared to the time and $ you'll sink into trial and error.
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Newt
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 01:27 AM |
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Any updates on where to get balnk Ford rotors from?
Newt
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 09:06 AM |
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newt ive decided to go with other brakes but I think most Re happy to drill ford rotors in between the original al ford holes
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Newt
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 12:12 AM |
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Got a brake man looking into it. He thought it wouldnt be too difficult to source.
See what happens - wont hold my breath - its just a wish list project.... (mind you I have calipers, mounts and hubs..).
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 06:42 AM |
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eb rear rotors from DBA are 111BU, undrilled
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Newt
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 07:41 PM |
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Thanks Hellbug.
DBA advise they will supply in 50 unit lots.
See what the Chinese have.
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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vlad01
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 08:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Fastie
I've just purchased a kit from VWCOOL on the above link. In all seriousness he has developed a wicked package with a lot of R&D and very good
value compared to the time and $ you'll sink into trial and error.
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so he is still selling them?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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