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Author: Subject:  Heater in bay?
MemberGeneral_Failure
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posted on February 23rd, 2011 at 12:22 PM
Heater in bay?


I know this has been covered but I'm asking something slightly different. Because parts availability is so low to me I've been looking at ways to make a heater to standards adequate for January's VSI bulletin.
I was going to pull the heater out of the Magna. It looks like a royal PITA because I need to completely dismantle the dash, and the heater looks huge!
This got me to thinking of a simpler solution. Can I do something simpler, and kind of scabbier to be honest liek using a bare heater core or even the auto transmission cooler I have sitting in the shed? I was thinking core in a small box or something with a round inlet and outlet. At the inlet put a marine bilge fan, and the outlet can be the same diameter as the piping in the stone guard area.

The fan can use the booster fan contacts on the heater lever via a relay to give it the extra boost where the blower fans fall short. The core would be always connected. Ie no valve, unless someone somewhere actually has the clip that holds the heater cables in place behind the dash? I've been looking for that f'ing clip for nearly 10 years and no none has one. My attempts of making something to hold the cables against the bracket have failed too.

So what do people think of my idea?

Just though I'd add my bay has never had heat. When it was converted to a camper they put the tank in the middle and severed the heater.conduit and removed the clip to disable the levers. Now it has a different motor it's suddenly important.




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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on February 23rd, 2011 at 12:27 PM



It's been done.

Elusive stranger has made one almost exactly as you describe

few others here as well

http://www.vwkd.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=2497&sid=2c1dfeb740e72c096490f0809...
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posted on February 23rd, 2011 at 10:59 PM



Man my idea was so awesome it brought itself into existence at the hands of another. Glad to see it works. You think I could get away with using the trans cooler? I'm not bent on using it, it's just I have no use whatsoever for it. Plus if the inspector sees rainbow in my coolant I can tell him where the heater came from. I'm not sidestepping an issue. Not at all.



If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on February 24th, 2011 at 07:23 AM



I suppose with the cooler if I flush it out with some degreaser and find some hose, I can connect it up and dangle it out the back or something, run the motor for a while and see what happens. If exhaust tubing can be used without corrosion issues then I should be able to use that. The fins are probably sub-optimal but whatever. There's always eBay too I guess. Kind of hesitant to go that route because since a bit before xmas our package arrival rate has dropped to maybe 20%. Someone somewhere in the postal chain has very sticky fingers.



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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on February 25th, 2011 at 12:00 AM



iFactory option was the esbacher heater (petrol fired)

The factory heat exchangers actually work fine if setup correctly, they just struggle to get the heat to the front. I have not tried it, but I would say a decent booster fan to replace the stock fan would make heating better.
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posted on February 25th, 2011 at 06:29 AM



I've only seen pictures of the Eberspacher BN4 on US bays. One would be nice for mine except for two basic problems. nowhere to put it and no heater pipe. The pipe was torn out when it was converted from a panel to a camper probably in the '70s shortly after it was made given that LCA seems to have been the predecessor to Swagman. So my heaters never worked. The heat exchangers were fine but with a huge part of the system missing of course they did nothing.

Shortly before I converted I bodged the lot together out of curiosity. It was the first time I ever felt warm air coming out of the windscreen vents. Trouble was I had no way to control it because the clip is missing that holds the cables in place on the bracket behind the dash. The HE cables were seized solid for a start, but not only that because the clip was gone it also meant I couldn't control the heat redirection flap in the front tube.

So here I am back where I was before that, but with no heat exchangers and no pipe. I was thinking of putting a patched together heater box in mounted to the back of the crossmember behind the front wheels. If I make it small enough it shouldn't interfere with cooling airflow. I think my plenum starts about 40cm behind that crossmember.

Reference photo. There it is underneath:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/general_failure/DSC00041.jpg




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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on March 5th, 2011 at 11:04 AM



I think I put the airscoop on backwards. It makes sense this way as a plenum design, but I could see it working as an air scoop. Meh. 8 screws I think it was. no big deal.

I had a look at the transmission cooler I have. It actually looks pretty suitable. And as Joel pointed out ...in another thread apparently because it's an EA I shouldn't have thermostat problems. The only issue with the transmission cooler is that its hoses look a little over 1/4". The fittings unscrew but who knows where I'd find them. Alternately the narrower diameter with adapters might work as a restrictor to slow the flow going through the naturally higher flow cooler.
Why am I doing this? it would seem that the Magna I'm stripping for parts was built around the heater core.




If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on March 11th, 2011 at 10:31 AM



trans cooler adaption won't happen. Not unless I can figure out how to go from 5/16 up to whatever the heater dia. is. Or find larger fittings with the tight thread on the cooler.



If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on March 13th, 2011 at 01:50 PM



Can't help you on the trans cooler, bud
But, I've been running my bodge up heater for about 4 years (Cheers Joel for link). It rocks. I really need to put in the PWM module now we're in spring time as it's full on or off!
I can't remember if it was on VWKD or Volksmoan that I saw a post where someone had used a cheap room thermostat (£12 UKP or so) to switch the fan heater on - bargain
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posted on March 16th, 2011 at 08:04 AM



I found a really good recirculating heater for a bus that was nice and compact and all, but didn't have the $ even though it would have been the cheapest solution. Doncha hate that?



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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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posted on March 17th, 2011 at 08:45 AM



Ummm my matrix was about 5UKP (right time right place). Scraps of MDF and a 20UKP bilge fan

I bought 2 T3 heaters, complete & working: 1 was 15UKP the other 5! (still haven't fitted them). Guess what?....I'm still running the bodge up :)
The T3 heaters have a much higher air flow/pressure and are 2 or 3 speed


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