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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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Use your head, don't abuse it!
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 05:26 PM |
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I need studs!
Put it back in your pants. I'm after some metric studs to mount my Holley progressive with an aluminium spacer. the ones I have are too short and I
have no idea where to source studs from.
Can someone tell me what sort of place I can buy them from?
Thanks.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 05:41 PM |
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go to your local hardware and buy a meter of allthread (booker rod) then cut them the size you want,either that or a fully threaded bolt to the length
you need and cut the head off and dress up the end 
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grumble
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 06:29 PM |
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Your other option is to go to an exhaust shop with your sizes and purchase them ready made.
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waveman1500
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 07:00 PM |
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Hardware store threaded rod is usually pretty terrible low-grade stuff and made of cheese. I'd buy studs from a proper engineering supplier like CBC
or someone like that.
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 07:07 PM |
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well it is only for holding down a carby,and he lives out in the middle of the country,didnt think of exhaust place grumble
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 08:32 PM |
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The hardware store ones are usually imperial thread.I'd have to tap and helicoil probably if I used them.
No exhaust places for about 100km. There's a store that sells ...stuff. various bolts fittings, some tools, wiring things, motorbike, generator etc.
parts, welders, camp fridges and whatever. Possibly them. I think there's a tractor supply place,a couple of small hardware stores, a plumbing and
miscellaneous place, and I don't know what else. help me here are type 4 exhaust studs larger diameter on one end than the other? if not they may do
it.
Once I get these studs sorted and pick up the manifold gaskets from the mechanic I'll be set to install. I wasn't game to make them myself because
the coolant runs like 5mm away from the manifold. Yes coolant. Check the sig.
I made up the carburettor / spacer gaskets this arvo. Only took me a few minutes. Fit great too which was good because there was more guesstimation
than I'd like to admit.
Just for the sake of running up your monthly data count:
Here's the spacer. I pulled that stud both because I got things stuck and I wanted a length reference.
Here's the manifold with carb and spacer sitting on it:
Spacer and quickie homemade gaskets:
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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grumble
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 08:56 PM |
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OK what size threads do you need,if they need to be stepped what size each end and what length.I have some T4 O/S exhaust studs,from memory they are
10mm one end and 8mm the other,not sure of length.let me know what you need and I may be able to help. Cheers Les
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on March 22nd, 2011 at 09:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by grumble
OK what size threads do you need,if they need to be stepped what size each end and what length.I have some T4 O/S exhaust studs,from memory they are
10mm one end and 8mm the other,not sure of length.let me know what you need and I may be able to help. Cheers Les
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I was wondering about exhaust studs because I have four interesting looking paperweights sitting around.
The stud size should be obvious to me but my head is all cloudy from the pulled tooth. I'll dig out the thread gauges and vernier tomorrow and check
it empirically, but at a guess I'd say m8 x 1.0 by maybe 5cm long.
It feels like I'm re-covering so much ground here. I got so far with the type 4 and hit a massive impasse. It's bad when the path of least
resistance is an engine swap. So now I'm catching up in some ways and way ahead of where I was in others. At least my 7 year deadlock with that motor
is over. Still have it with the hope I can fix it, but that's going deeper into the rabbit hole...
Should be interesting to see how the EA81 responds with the jetting. I got the carburettor set up fairly nicely for the type 4, and the EA81 really
isn't such a different motor. No matter what it has to be better than the senile Hitachi that is on it.
Mechanically speaking the carburettor and a damaged brake line are the biggest hurdles I have left. The steering box is a bit of a ?, and the rest of
the issues can pretty much be fixed with the grinder and MIG. lots of minor to medium things to address but nothing I can't handle, I hope. It's
just silly issues like these studs that get me all hung up. Thanks for the offer of help Les. Much appreciated as always.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 23rd, 2011 at 05:51 AM |
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Standard 8mm thread is 8x1.25.
Try some old engine or gearbox studs if you cant get to a shop.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on March 23rd, 2011 at 01:21 PM |
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I wish i had a spare gearbox! Anyway I asked around today and found that the mechanic has a stash of studs. Got some nice uneven threaded ones which
were perfect for the job. I did however discover that the carb base holes had been drilled a fraction crooked which made getting the spacer and
carburettor on a bit awkward (understatement) but it's assembled now. It'll have to be pulled apart again but I won't bother until I get a
thermostat and gasket to finish preparing the manifold. I also need to plug some of its vac lines and remove a useless gable guide bracket. The engine
bay should look a bit cleaner after this at very least. The engine should run better too.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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