| [ Total Views: 751 | Total Replies: 8 | Thread Id: 89628 ] |
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 mactaylor
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| posted on April 4th, 2011 at 06:39 PM |
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how to stiffen the front of BJ front end?
as it states any help and advice from racers is greatly apreciated!
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on April 4th, 2011 at 08:09 PM |
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Run bars from the two beams to the firewall or base. Gusset the tower by welding a triangle in
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1916baja
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| posted on April 4th, 2011 at 08:09 PM |
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What sort of application? If its off road and you want a lift and firmer suspension stick some coil overs on it.... or are you asking about
strengthening?
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mactaylor
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| posted on April 5th, 2011 at 04:07 AM |
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nah sorry spring rate dont want coil overs just yet will start with std front spring rate but may need to firm it up down the track!
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dangerous
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| posted on April 5th, 2011 at 05:25 AM |
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SAW used to make stiffer leaves.
Matt B has a set in his bug if it still has the same beam.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
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Sides
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| posted on April 5th, 2011 at 07:00 AM |
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I've got the SAW leaves that dangerous is talkin about in the front of Jezebel... supposedly make it 25% stiffer than stock (and yeah, it's pretty
stiff).
Two other tricks I did at various times when she was as a street car:
- if you have adjusters, set each tube for slightly different heights to pre-load one spring pack a bit
- get a donor spring pack, and swap out the half width leaves (4 per tube) with full width ones (so you'd use two per tube).
A bit tough to explain in words, so maybe a pic will help (not necessarily the right number of leaves, or in the right spot in the pic... I think
there's 7 all up...  )
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oldtub356
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| posted on April 5th, 2011 at 09:54 AM |
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A quick and dirty Chassis Stiffener: Bolt on a pair of Country Buggy front braces - you can "feel" the difference.
To stiffen the Front Springs: Extend the length of the Adjustable Centre Block, thus reducing the length of the Spring flex.
The length of the square (don't use a 'stepped' shape hole) broached hole should cover the full length of the new Block.
The new length depends upon how hard you want the spring rate. The standard length in the 356 is 27mm - I have welded x3 together (deep undercuts and
machine the welds back to surface). Its advisable to do both springs.
Do expect to snap springs during heavy duty off-road or track use.
This works on a 356 as the Adjusting Block, is easily removable once the Bush and Needle Bearing is removed from one side.
More difficult with the VeeDub as usually you will be dealing with a welded in centre section, which can impede the replacing of the Centre
Adjusting Block, depending upon the tidiness of the weld/penetration. On newly manufactured front ends it should be more viable, depending upon the
brand used.
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mactaylor
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| posted on April 5th, 2011 at 08:02 PM |
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good idea the movable pinch or locking point! and thanx to all for any ideas! and dave and dave!
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 matberry
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| posted on April 5th, 2011 at 09:52 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
SAW used to make stiffer leaves.
Matt B has a set in his bug if it still has the same beam.
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Oh do I Dave  , that makes me happy. That beam was taken out early on and
I never knew. They will go great in my new application, as so far I have overpowered my suspension just tuning my carbs 
The split leaf exchange for solid does make a difference too, and definately need the extra support for the beam IMO.
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