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Author: Subject:  What Paint?
Membersmithy68
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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 05:06 PM
What Paint?


I am about to have my VW beetle sprayed, I want to know what is going to be better, acrylic paint or 2 pak paint?
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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 05:34 PM



Well if you are having it professionally done the only way these days is two pack baked but i'm sure there are lots of members here who can offer good advice



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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 05:53 PM



Acrlic is much more serviceable (Can do repairs and blendin rather than repaint complete panels) and slightly cheaper .Also more like OG finish.
2 Pac very shiny more like new car finish and not very serviceable slightly more expensive and more toxic. M




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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 09:40 PM



Hey guys i know im only new here but this is what i do for a living so thought i'd chime in.

Acrylic is old tech, as mentioned it is easy to repair, but generally a PROPERLY DONE respray in acrylic will be a lot more expensive than 2k.

Acrylic buffs up to a deep luster that some people believe suits old cars better than the more plasticy 2k shine.

But acrylic never really dries. It is very suceptible to damage. If the car will be parked outside regularly (work etc) then you will need to buff the car every three months or so to keep it looking reasonable.

It also doesnt offer the corrosion protectoin 2k paint products do.

2k on the other hand sets to a hard plasticy finish. It will require a lot less maintenance, a good coat of wax each time you wash it is about all you will have to do to it to keep it perfect for 10 years + even if the car is left outside frequently.

2k can be buffed to a slightly lower sheen so it looks a bit more like acrylic, close enough that most people wont spot it.

A proper 2k paint job will be cheaper than an acrylic paint job, and every shop is equipped to spray 2k, unlike acrylic which you might be struggling to find a shop to do the job for you.

Personally im a 2k fan, and i would suggest you go that way, but i do respect people who go to the extra trouble to keep a nice acrylic job on there car.

Cheers.




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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 11:49 PM



Thanks Bomber you have helped me with my choice, to go 2k.
Does 2k have to be done in a booth to dry?
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posted on April 23rd, 2011 at 09:18 AM



No most 2k's will air dry satisfactorily overnight.

When i sprayed my Torana recently i hired a booth but didnt bother baking it, reasonably warm here in the tropics.

But it is very slow drying compared to acrylic, so there is a lot more chance of dust sticking to it.

Should definitely be sprayed in a booth for this reason and also health/environmental reasons.

So i suppose to expand on your origional question the next question is are you getting a shop to do it or doing it yourself?? If yourself than acrylic is probably the go.

Also does it have a primer on it already, if so what type, are you leaving the original paint on or going back to bare metal?

Cheers.




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posted on April 23rd, 2011 at 11:43 PM



It's going to a pro he is beed blasting back to bear metal, he reckons go 2k, but all my mates are telling me acrylic, thats why I am asking.
My mates say it's easier to do in 2k and acrylic will look better.
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posted on April 24th, 2011 at 06:56 AM



Have u seen Camos car pretty sure it was done in 2pack

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=67570&page=7#pid836775 




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posted on April 24th, 2011 at 09:41 AM



2k will be substantially cheaper then and will last a lot longer.

If you decide to go acrylic get the painter to put 2k primers down, at least that way the car wont rust.




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posted on April 24th, 2011 at 12:15 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by smithy68
My mates say it's easier to do in 2k and acrylic will look better.



if done right 2k will look far better than arcylic....with out the need for buff and polish.. 2k by nature has a very slight peel and with out boring you thats how it withstands the UV's.. you can flow coat 2k and it will look like glass but for a car that is used daily and sits in the weather it will break down quicker... no wear near as quick as acrylic tho..

i never buff my work as i hate doing it!!!! sure of a bit of shits in the paint i will cut and polish but never the whole car, if a customer wants a glass finish then i paint as normal then cut with 2000 then flow coat..

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa300/Dubcrazy_01/DSC_0089.jpg
driven every day and used off road a lot.

full bare metal rebuild .. how it came off the gun NO buffing at all
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa300/Dubcrazy_01/DSC00269.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa300/Dubcrazy_01/DSC00268.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa300/Dubcrazy_01/DSC00267.jpg


u get the idea.... no matter what standard the car is goign to be built the paint finish is no different with 2k if applyed right

steff...............




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posted on April 25th, 2011 at 08:50 AM



Can I ask what flow coating is?
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posted on April 25th, 2011 at 11:02 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by smithy68
Can I ask what flow coating is?


flow coat is when you apply ur clear coat as per normal and then u have two options. the first is let the clear flash after the second coat for 15 mins(depends on temp) then u apply another coat but its thinned down by an extra 25/30% more then normal. the second is the better way and u paint as per normal leave dry over night(even if baked) then cut with a 2000wet and dry paper then apply the thinned down clear which will give a glass finish..

there are slightly different ways to do it and it will depend on the painter to which way he prefers but the end results pretty much the, the only difference is between the two ways i said with the first not giving quite as much depth and glassy look then the second way..

steff........................




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