| [ Total Views: 1123 | Total Replies: 25 | Thread Id: 90809 ] |
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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 09:23 AM |
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Pretend you are a vehicle inspector...
...about to do a blue slip inspection on my '75 bay. Or maybe you are one.
It's been through a couple of them years back, but it hasn't been registered since about '04.
What would you look at?
To make this more interesting, tell me and I'll post pictures. It's not quite ready yet and has a few things needing to be done.
things that need addressing still:
Fuel hose resting across crankcase.
Rear bumper needs to be put back on.
Brake line damaged by hand brake cable.
Missing rear seatbelt (little welding accident).
Drivers side front step (Patched years ago but rusted metal underneath.
Rear seat mount (like above. has plate welded on but jagged rusty edges underneath).
Let's go!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 10:39 AM |
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just do the best you can, make sure that everything is clean and tidy, give the whole car a detail and have all the paper work to make the inspectors
job easier.
just book it in and just see what else may need doing if anything. 
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vwsteve
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 11:06 AM |
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.
take it to someone who knows vws, that way they wont pick the absolute guts out of it
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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68AutoBug
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 posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 01:23 PM |
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Yes I agree
You can have many problems with someone who knows nothing about VWs... including Kombis..
they may even make things worse by having You do things that weren't even normal for Your vehicle...
but were 'normal' in later model vehicles...
so, a VW oriented inspector...
they know what to look at....
best of luck
and degrease the engine and under the engine etc.. ..
so it looks like new...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 03:50 PM |
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For starters I have three choices. The Ford dealership, The Holden dealership (not sure about that one) and the all makes and models mechanic / Repco
agent.
My choice is the one that does different makes and models because he seems on the level. I talked to him about what I wanted to do with the engine and
he called the RTA to confirm rather than just spin me a tale.
68AutoBug, been there with having to do improper things to a vehicle. The Magna (yes the one I am pulling apart for those who know) cost me about $600
to get it through. I even had to retrofit a center brake light even though that wasn't introduced until the next year.
ian.mezz : Sounds good. Which paperwork? I can give it a scrub down with a good brush and vacuum the interior, but she won't scrub up much better
than that. It's been through hell, there is no arguing that. However it's not rusty besides the two bits I mentioned, and everything mechanically is
pretty tight.
Cleaning up that engine properly would need a sand blaster. It only has one minor oil leak from the corner of the sump which manifests when its back
is on ramps. I have a new gasket for that which I may swap in. Besides that it looks dingy and dank and even after giving it a blast off with
degreaser, the hose, the kero gun etc. it still has dirt and gravel fused to the top. I even tried scrubbing it with a toothbrush, a scrubbing brush
and degreaser. At least it's not oily. The manifold looks pretty. When I was prepping it for installation I cleaned it with a little brass brush.
Came up nice.
I'm still tucking a few wires into corrugated conduit things, but nearly done there.
I have a feeling I'll have to talk to the inspector beforehand to see if he remembers how a kombi operates. Ie reverse position, that sort of thing.
I don't think they have seen one here in decades.
it'll be fun for sure especially given how much I've needed to converse with the RTA vehicle mods section to make sure I'm not doing anything
naughty.
I'm thinking of putting in a false floor and some sheets of laminate on the sides or something to clean up the interior a little. The camper was
gutted way before I got it. maybe 15 years ago. Still has the folding seat.
This is more or less the current engine bay. The wires have been cleaned up a bit since and the charcoal canister has been mounted:
These were taken last year, before it had its motor swapped. Besides the tarp, a different window rubber and some paint damage on the back it looks
the same.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 04:37 PM |
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your rego papers
weight ticket
receipt for motor with the new engine number on it.
and I mean give it a goooood detail even tyre shine.
If its out of rego make sure all lights etc work.
If its just a motor swap they dont check the rest of the car. but still detail it.
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 04:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
your rego papers
weight ticket
receipt for motor with the new engine number on it.
and I mean give it a goooood detail even tyre shine.
If its out of rego make sure all lights etc work.
If its just a motor swap they dont check the rest of the car. but still detail it.
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Good advice.
Do rego papers even apply in this case, because it's not a renewal. It's been out since 2004-ish.
All lights and instrumentation are functional. I'm also in the process of adding something it hasn't had in 35 years. Heat.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Klaus
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 05:09 PM |
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if you get thru without needing an engineers report i will be amazed , I blue slip 3 cars a year on average and make sure everything works as it would
from the factory and there's no structural rust , good tyres no cracking brake lines , ball joints n tie rods arent sloppy or have broken boots same
as cv's best way take it there as is make them write down all issues if any then get them sorted, that way when you go back they cant add any more .
good luck
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 05:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
your rego papers
weight ticket
receipt for motor with the new engine number on it.
and I mean give it a goooood detail even tyre shine.
If its out of rego make sure all lights etc work.
If its just a motor swap they dont check the rest of the car. but still detail it.
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Good advice.
Do rego papers even apply in this case, because it's not a renewal. It's been out since 2004-ish.
All lights and instrumentation are functional. I'm also in the process of adding something it hasn't had in 35 years. Heat.
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yes you need papers to prove its yours.
and it makes it easier to make sure they write the right vin number etc.
And what Klaus said.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 05:54 PM |
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Ah ...crap. I'll get a printout from the RTA. They should have it on record as being mine.
I don't need an engineers. Go over to the non-VW powered section if you don't know why. I did my homework and a lot of leg work. There is a reason I
did a conversion to an EA81 
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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 helbus
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 06:31 PM |
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If it is not an original VW motor, then it has to have an engineers report. There is no grey area. If it is the original engine that that vehicle came
with, or an optional engine that the series of vehicle came with, then that is ok, as long as everything the optional series came with is also
attached.
If it is not original to that series, then it must have an engineers report.
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grumble
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 06:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
If it is not an original VW motor, then it has to have an engineers report. There is no grey area. If it is the original engine that that vehicle came
with, or an optional engine that the series of vehicle came with, then that is ok, as long as everything the optional series came with is also
attached.
If it is not original to that series, then it must have an engineers report.
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Hellbus is correct,it was not a factory option( even though it may fit in the 15% increase in capacity) the engine mounts,exhaust etc will also be
fabricated.
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Klaus
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 06:52 PM |
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trust me I've done my homework and engineered 3 vehicles as soon as it strays from a factory option it needs to be certified , engineering that
engine wont be a problem it will just cost you 600- 1000 to get the all important piece of paper saying its been done to a certain standard and the
vehicle has been upgraded to the adrs of the vehicle that the engine was from or to a certain safety standard, just take it for a blueslip and findout
if it passes with out needing a report ...sweet .. but the blueslip guy should loose his blueslip license  . I'm about to put a inj 5ltr out of a vr commo into a hg ute which came with a 5ltr standard but i will
need a report being that the engine is unleaded later model and has different pollution laws and going to a 4 speed auto , stupid thing i have to put
an unleaded filler neck in so i cant use super fuel even though its hasnt been around for years .. but thats what you have to do to get it passed.
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grumble
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 07:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Klaus
trust me I've done my homework and engineered 3 vehicles as soon as it strays from a factory option it needs to be certified , engineering that
engine wont be a problem it will just cost you 600- 1000 to get the all important piece of paper saying its been done to a certain standard and the
vehicle has been upgraded to the adrs of the vehicle that the engine was from or to a certain safety standard, just take it for a blueslip and findout
if it passes with out needing a report ...sweet .. but the blueslip guy should loose his blueslip license . I'm about to put a inj 5ltr out of a vr commo into a hg ute which came with a 5ltr standard but i will
need a report being that the engine is unleaded later model and has different pollution laws and going to a 4 speed auto , stupid thing i have to put
an unleaded filler neck in so i cant use super fuel even though its hasnt been around for years .. but thats what you have to do to get it passed.
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Again correct I was a AUVIS examiner for 15 years until sold my workshop last year. Do as suggested and save a lot of heartache and reinspection,you
will be thankful in the long run and don't bullshit or upset the examiner.
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 07:38 PM |
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No, I talked to him about it, he talked to the RTA and confirmed I do not need it. I have also talked to the RTA about it and confirmed it
independently. I have consulted with them multiple times to ensure I am working within guidelines. VSI Bulletin 6, Nov 2007, which is still the valid
guideline as the one released at the beginning of this year was retracted, states what is and isn't allowed. I have questioned them on these more
than once and have been told that what I am doing falls within user modification. There are no mysterious codes concealed within the document nor
unwritten rules. The document has no "spirit". It says what it says.
I've been through all this. Find my thread and read it.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 07:44 PM |
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yeah and its better to take it to some who knows nothing about vw and where all the common wear and tear and rust etc is
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 07:47 PM |
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blue slips there not worth doing then for the $50 fee  they find faults with the cars to make some extra money on repairs etc,
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 07:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
blue slips there not worth doing then for the $50 fee they find faults with the cars to make some extra money on repairs etc,
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Partially yes. I know the higher ups go sniffing around if too many older cars pass first time too. Which really does make sense. So I've usually
left something simple for them to pick on when I've blue slipped a car, like tyres I intended on replacing anyway, a blown bulb, or an oil leak.
When I'm a shade further along I'll take it in for a blue slip. I've just been hung up on sourcing parts.
I'm not really worried about wear and rust. It's pretty good on both counts. Just uuuuugleeeeee.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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grumble
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 08:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
No, I talked to him about it, he talked to the RTA and confirmed I do not need it. I have also talked to the RTA about it and confirmed it
independently. I have consulted with them multiple times to ensure I am working within guidelines. VSI Bulletin 6, Nov 2007, which is still the valid
guideline as the one released at the beginning of this year was retracted, states what is and isn't allowed. I have questioned them on these more
than once and have been told that what I am doing falls within user modification. There are no mysterious codes concealed within the document nor
unwritten rules. The document has no "spirit". It says what it says.
I've been through all this. Find my thread and read it.
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You Did ask the question in your post and most of us have answered it if you don't want our advice based on personal experience don't ask!Those of
us in the trade know the regulations and work to them as we were operating on a bond system.this is my last post on this.Good luck dork:
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Klaus
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 08:27 PM |
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you asked for advice and lots of us have given our opinions if in doubt ring Wayne Penrose he does all my blue slipping (when he's not on
holidays) he's very fair and knows the laws let alone vws , 4272 5644 or 4272 5844 .
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Klaus
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 08:28 PM |
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creepy similar post
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whathaveidone
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 08:33 PM |
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Have you thought about insurance????? They wont like an engine swap without an engineers report!!
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VDUBXTC
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 11:08 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
No, I talked to him about it, he talked to the RTA and confirmed I do not need it. I have also talked to the RTA about it and confirmed it
independently. I have consulted with them multiple times to ensure I am working within guidelines. VSI Bulletin 6, Nov 2007, which is still the valid
guideline as the one released at the beginning of this year was retracted, states what is and isn't allowed. I have questioned them on these more
than once and have been told that what I am doing falls within user modification. There are no mysterious codes concealed within the document nor
unwritten rules. The document has no "spirit". It says what it says.
I've been through all this. Find my thread and read it.
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If you have spoken to these people and they have said it's ok. Get it in writing from them. Because the first time you get pulled up for an
inspection by the RTA or police and your not carrying an engineers report for the conversion, you'll soon be sent to go get one.
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 4th, 2011 at 05:49 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VDUBXTC
| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
No, I talked to him about it, he talked to the RTA and confirmed I do not need it. I have also talked to the RTA about it and confirmed it
independently. I have consulted with them multiple times to ensure I am working within guidelines. VSI Bulletin 6, Nov 2007, which is still the valid
guideline as the one released at the beginning of this year was retracted, states what is and isn't allowed. I have questioned them on these more
than once and have been told that what I am doing falls within user modification. There are no mysterious codes concealed within the document nor
unwritten rules. The document has no "spirit". It says what it says.
I've been through all this. Find my thread and read it.
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If you have spoken to these people and they have said it's ok. Get it in writing from them. Because the first time you get pulled up for an
inspection by the RTA or police and your not carrying an engineers report for the conversion, you'll soon be sent to go get one.
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Now that's a bloody good idea. Do you think they will? I don't even know where the mysterious RTA telephone people reside.
whathaveidone: Comprehensive? I'm not getting that. There aren't really many reasons for me to. It's not exactly a valuable example. When LCA
converted it to a camper in the '70s they saw to that.
Wayne Penrose is a bit of a hike to get to. He's a bit over 600km away from me. Thanks for the suggestion though.
I have my reasons for taking the path I have. It's long and complicated, but it pretty much comes down to location and repeatedly being forced to buy
"good" parts on faith and ending up with a big pile of useless crap. Also the nearest engineer in NSW is 350km away from me, which makes things a
bit of a pain to say the least.
I'm going to try my luck this way first. I've adhered to the guidelines, and as far as I can see I have done nothing wrong in Big Nanny's eyes.
What have I to lose other than $50?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Klaus
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| posted on June 4th, 2011 at 05:37 PM |
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i meant for you to ring wayne to clarify
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 4th, 2011 at 06:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Klaus
i meant for you to ring wayne to clarify
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Oh. Thanks for the clarification mate. Makes more sense.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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