A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
Posts: 6661
Threads: 534
Registered: April 8th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Tanah Merah, SE-QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: A bee bit ma' bottom, now ma' bottom's big!
posted on July 15th, 2011 at 09:02 AM
Stripped doors. whats bests assembly procedure?
Good morning!
When it comes to the fun of reassembling the guts of a stripped door, whats the best procedure of putting it all back together without busting
anything?
I have a feeling that it will be an interesting experience
Thanks heaps,
Chris.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
Posts: 9368
Threads: 211
Registered: February 14th, 2006
Member Is Offline
It's a horrible job the first time, especially if you have new paint that you're trying not to scratch.
If you're not in a mad rush I have a new outer trim/scraper as well as new bailey channel to go in mine which involves pretty much stripping the
doors right down and Youtube have upgraded my account so i gotta start uploading some more vids.
may get to it this weekend not sure yet.
But way I've always done it when starting with a bare door is:
Install the latching mech and rod part.
install outter trim/scraper
install inner scraper
Sit the door glass in the bottom of the door then install the window winder mech.
The glass sits on the outside of the winder and can go in after the winder mech but its a bitch to get past and can scratch the shit out of tinting if
you have it.
install smokers window with bailey channel already attached
install rear section of bailey channel
Slide the door glass up to the top It will stay at the top on it's own
put the bolts in through the 2 holes but dont fully tighten them.
wind it up and down a few time so it finds it's happy spot then tighten them when its at the top.
That's all i can think of atm, but i'll be filming mine when I do it.
grumble
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Posts: 2668
Threads: 53
Registered: June 10th, 2008
Member Is Offline
Location: Taree
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy all the time
posted on July 15th, 2011 at 09:48 AM
Nicely put Joel,you are right about the new paint it seems if something can slip it will so a lot of padding is warranted along with care,if you get
frustrated walk away and come back later.
alien8
Wolfsburg Wizard
Posts: 521
Threads: 84
Registered: September 5th, 2008
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Powder
posted on July 15th, 2011 at 10:14 AM
Thoes little metal clips that go into the door on the scrapers have a habit of breaking off really easy. I ended up having to sikaflex the scrapers on
as the clips broke. I swear they break just by looking at them. You can try lubricating the clips so they slide in easier and pinch the clips with
needle nose pliers on the way but mine still broke. Oh ,and have a beer handy when parts have the misfortune of meeting the shed wall up close and
personal like.
edit- a few more things just came to mind. Buy the best felt channel you can find. the cheap shit rots in less than 12 months. Dont forget to line the
inside door with plastic and make sure the drain holes in the bottom of the door are clear. I even went as far as clear coating the backs of the door
cards for waterproofing .They will warp with any moisture inside the door.
Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
Posts: 9368
Threads: 211
Registered: February 14th, 2006
Member Is Offline
Originally
posted by grumble
if you get frustrated walk away and come back later.
Amen to that.
Much easier than popping out fist imprints or scouring around the garden for that launched spanner.
Ask me how I know.....
Just to expand on what Alien8 mentioned, if you can, keep the clips from the original German scrapers.
The ones on the new repoop crap are just aluminum kitchen foil shaped to look like mounting clips.
bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
Posts: 6661
Threads: 534
Registered: April 8th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Tanah Merah, SE-QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: A bee bit ma' bottom, now ma' bottom's big!
posted on July 15th, 2011 at 05:29 PM
Thanks guys
I will keep an eye out for those vids Joel, cheers mate.
I won't be putting these doors together too quickly if it rains tomorrow.
Was about to put the top coat on the inside of the door this arvy, but sunset came to quick. Wasn't game to spray in the dark. bring on sunshine
tomorrow!
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
Custom Title Time!
Posts: 1936
Threads: 209
Registered: October 29th, 2007
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney - Liverpool area
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
posted on July 15th, 2011 at 09:20 PM
Joel,
I know I will also be waiting for your youtube video of the door re-assembly process
Please let us know when you get it up, the video that is
Cheers, Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
Posts: 6661
Threads: 534
Registered: April 8th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Tanah Merah, SE-QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: A bee bit ma' bottom, now ma' bottom's big!
posted on July 23rd, 2011 at 06:00 PM
thanks for your step progress instructions Joel, it worked a charm.
Alot of curses in teh process... boy is it is a pain in the back. But phew... done... trim has a few scratches, little bends... it'll bloody do. i
don't want to have to do that again very soon at all...
Normal pop rivets for the vent window worked well too
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
hus22l
Officially Full-On Dubber
Posts: 229
Threads: 36
Registered: April 24th, 2012
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 19th, 2012 at 06:07 PM
I know this is an old post but I have just done the passenger door on my 67 type 1. I thought I would share my experience.
Yep it is a mission. It took me about 4 hours, with help. Let me explain.
I ordered the full door kit from cip1 (all rubbers, scrapers in and out and bailey channels) . Firstly I had the old / original outside door chrome
scraper with some clips. The rubber was toast, and that is all I used from the Brazilian replacement from cip. The new replacement part (polished
aluminium?) is garbage. I drilled out the mini rivets on the new outer scraper, kept the rubber and put the rest on the spares pile (for sale later?)
. I also drilled out the mini rivets on the original outer scraper chrome piece. There is also a much heavier metal flat strip which sits on the
back of the rubber and sandwiches it against the scraper. New rivets in, restored original scraper! Came out great ( oh remember to sandwich the
clips in there too before you rivet it).
Installed the quarter (smokers) window rubber, this did need some careful cuts to let the locking bracket squeeze through. It also needed some
trimming once the window was in. Fiddly, use silicone spray.
Then the upright mid door channel metal piece, no issues with the rubber piece on the smoker window side or the bailey channel.
Oh, I did the locks a few weeks ago so all the lock mechanics were already in...
Then the inside window scraper, I didn't have the old wire, it's in but it is a trick. We grinded a notch in the middle of a screw driver and used
some thin, hooked needle nose pliers.
We got there, but I might just forget the wire on the drivers side and just glue it on??
Next was window winder mechanism and glass, this is where it got tricky (or trickier!!!) we had substantial trouble with the main bailey channel the
goes up the lock side of the door and top of the window, this thing looked great and top quality, but it was very hard to mount in the metal frame and
almost impossible for the window to fit into. So tight I am almost breaking the winder handle off, and still need to help it ! I hope it loosens,
has anyone else had this trouble? I have an old, all rubber one that I will use for the drivers side (taken from a donor) it is more like a common
replacement (have similar ones in the lh torana). Not using the "top quality" one from cip with the internal metal spine... It's just too
tight!
I had cleaned all the bits before putting them all on which added to the time, but made for less mess and clean up on the paint work.. Only one
little scratch on the inside of the door, by the end of that marathon I was happy with just that!
I reckon the drivers door will take me an hour (fingers crossed!)
Good luck!
psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Posts: 2506
Threads: 148
Registered: January 1st, 2009
Member Is Offline
Location: North East Melbourne, VIC
Theme: UltimaBB Psyche Blue
posted on November 19th, 2012 at 10:03 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by hus22l
I know this is an old post but I have just done the passenger door on my 67 type 1. I thought I would share my experience.
Yep it is a mission. It took me about 4 hours, with help. Let me explain.
I ordered the full door kit from cip1 (all rubbers, scrapers in and out and bailey channels) . Firstly I had the old / original outside door chrome
scraper with some clips. The rubber was toast, and that is all I used from the Brazilian replacement from cip. The new replacement part (polished
aluminium?) is garbage. I drilled out the mini rivets on the new outer scraper, kept the rubber and put the rest on the spares pile (for sale later?)
. I also drilled out the mini rivets on the original outer scraper chrome piece. There is also a much heavier metal flat strip which sits on the
back of the rubber and sandwiches it against the scraper. New rivets in, restored original scraper! Came out great ( oh remember to sandwich the
clips in there too before you rivet it).
Installed the quarter (smokers) window rubber, this did need some careful cuts to let the locking bracket squeeze through. It also needed some
trimming once the window was in. Fiddly, use silicone spray.
Then the upright mid door channel metal piece, no issues with the rubber piece on the smoker window side or the bailey channel.
Oh, I did the locks a few weeks ago so all the lock mechanics were already in...
Then the inside window scraper, I didn't have the old wire, it's in but it is a trick. We grinded a notch in the middle of a screw driver and used
some thin, hooked needle nose pliers.
We got there, but I might just forget the wire on the drivers side and just glue it on??
Next was window winder mechanism and glass, this is where it got tricky (or trickier!!!) we had substantial trouble with the main bailey channel the
goes up the lock side of the door and top of the window, this thing looked great and top quality, but it was very hard to mount in the metal frame and
almost impossible for the window to fit into. So tight I am almost breaking the winder handle off, and still need to help it ! I hope it loosens,
has anyone else had this trouble? I have an old, all rubber one that I will use for the drivers side (taken from a donor) it is more like a common
replacement (have similar ones in the lh torana). Not using the "top quality" one from cip with the internal metal spine... It's just too
tight!
I had cleaned all the bits before putting them all on which added to the time, but made for less mess and clean up on the paint work.. Only one
little scratch on the inside of the door, by the end of that marathon I was happy with just that!
I reckon the drivers door will take me an hour (fingers crossed!)
Good luck!
Shoulda looked at Custom & Commercial in the UK for the door kit. They have German Quality parts and the shipping from UK is cheaper than what CIP
charge
madness is in the eye of the beholder
hus22l
Officially Full-On Dubber
Posts: 229
Threads: 36
Registered: April 24th, 2012
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on July 15th, 2011 at 09:02 AM
