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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:17 PM
Well I finally managed to source an engine crane to make life abit easier & basically went hammer & thongs to get as much done today as
possible, as I was already running a day behind what due to having to sit on my hands waiting for a crane.
But once it was on the floor, it wasn't long before it was on the stand & the strip down began.
On closer inspection of everything, the engine was in pretty good condition, considering the amount of km & the even more amount of abuse it has
copped with.
But all the big end bearing, main bearings, thrust washers etc were all in reasonable condition, with only a couple of score marks. The crank journals
were also in good condition.
What really surprised me was how worn the pistons were. You could actually see the rings down beside the piston. I was also able to rock the piston a
far amount in the bore, way more than usual!!!!!
Bores weren't too bad either apart being out of round for starters & also a couple of marks, water marks etc, from when it was sitting around on
the floor for several years.
Pistons, rings, rods etc were also in reasonable condition, apart from a couple of scuff marks.
Cyl. head wasn't in such a great shape. It appeared it had swallowed something in early in its life & the dents in the quench zone proved that.
You don't get these sort of marks from pinging!
All the valve guides were also worn, especially the exhaust which is normal. Valve seats weren't too bad either.
This head is also a 38mm/33mm head. Damn!!!!
After a strip down evaluation & a sit down for some lunch, I though about how I'll tackle it, as I don't have enough spare coin for a full
rebuild incl. good rods, pistons, machine work, cyl. head overhaul, new valves, guides etc.
So after a bit of umming & arghing, I thought. Bugger it! I'll do exactly as I planned to do & reuse the worn pistons, rods, valves, cyl.
head etc & see how long this engine can cope as a bit of an experiment.
Cause after a inspection I reckon as the engine hadn't damaged a piston/rings as I first thought, there would be no reason why this engine couldn't
do another 30+K on the turbo'd setup.
Anyway. On with some pics
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:18 PM
Heres the old Saab T3 turbo next to the new T3/4.
I got stuck into ported the head & I started off removing the sharp quench area's & also de-shrouding the valves.
I also decided to shape the intake ports & tried my best to try & redirect the intake around the long side of the port & direct the charge
into the centre of the combustion chamber to promote a swirl/well mixed charge.
I also added a nice long bump on the short/inner side of the port to promote the charge to slow down to help with both slowing down the charge so it
doesn't counter act against the fast moving long side charge & also help swing around the short turn
The exhaust I copied as before. I feel they came out better than my test port job.
They feel pretty smooth straight off the burr & have a nice smooth flowing surface to get in & out.
Still waiting on the cartridge rolls & will finish it all off sometime early next week
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:19 PM
I tried out some advice from a cyl. head guru over here which was to flatten out the port floor.
I still have a couple of tiny things to blend & reshape on the guide boss', the port floor alittle bit flatter & also smooth out the radius'
of the port floor to the port walls, but you get the idea.
I'm yet to see another 8V port which is shaped like this, but happy to be shown some.
I had some large round flap sanders which I was able to finish the port runners & bowls, but they are too large to get in & around the corners
& guide boss'
I might also reshape where the seat is pressed into the head & protrudes into the chamber.
You can see a bit more clearly the damage to the cyl. head after it swallowed something in a previous life to when I've had it.
Looking forward to seeing how they flow with a smaller 38mm valve compared to the big guns of VW head porting & even the eurospec heads.
This is all for the pics of the porting for a while sorry.
But I'll get some more once everything has been finally smoothed & blended.
Then I'll try & flog my credit card some more to get some flow numbers to prove if all my work has been worth it.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:19 PM
Well alot has been happening the last few days & most of it has been running around & just basic cleaning of everything. But I did get to drop
the head off for a skim & also had the flywheel machined too.
I finally got the gearbox stripped down & cleaned. All looks pretty good inside (bearings, races etc) considering how old it is & also how
much of a beating it has copped.
Got the diff out, drilled off the rivet heads & then pressed the rest out at work with an ol skool massive press.
Now just have to weld in some thick plates for the spider gears to lock it all up & fit the ARP diff bolt kits.
I also finally got my Porting Cartridge roll set & set to work blending & finishing everything off.
Very happy with how it all came out in the end. Sorry, but I didn't get a chance to get it flow tested, but I'm fairly confident its a massive
improvement on stock.
Also match ported the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold & also the turbo exhaust housing.
Then I decided to clean up the factory inlet casting on the turbo compressor housing, as it had just a rough inlet surface & then a step into the
compressor wheel. So ported & blended it all out to a smooth finish. You can see the factory casting & step in the 2nd pic
I also ran the hone down the cyl. bores to give them a skim & to say the least, they aren't in the best condition & you can clearly see in
the pics the lips at the tops of the bores. It really does need a rebore, but that can wait for next time along with a set of pistons, larger valves
etc.
I did try & rehone another stock GX block here, but that one was even worse. But the pistons out of the other one were in better condition than my
one, so I gave them a clean out & knocked the stock rod studs out.
So after all that was finished of, I set about cleaning everything up with a pressure cleaner & then onto reassembling the cyl. head incl. lapping
in the valves, new valve stem seals etc
Once this was all sorted I got onto prepping the block & cleaning out all the galleries etc.
Then installed the ARP Main Stud kit.
Intalled the crank & checked all the clearances incl. end float
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:20 PM
Well I only managed a half day of work in the shed, due to a sleep in & a hang over. (Normal kind of stuff!)
But still got a bit done.
Gapped up all the rings. I decided to go with the later style rings with a 1 piece Oil Ring
Setting up the ring height using an old piston to guarantee the same measurement in all the bores. I pushed the rings down with the piston till its
gudgeon pin cut out was level with the block face.
All the gaps weren't too bad considering the condition of the bores
Cyl. 1
Top - 0.26" (0.686mm)
2nd - 0.26" (0.686mm)
Cyl. 2
Top - 0.24" (0.610mm)
2nd - 0.24" (0.610mm)
Cyl. 3
Top - 0.22" (0.559mm)
2nd - 0.24" (0.610mm)
Cyl. 4
Top - 0.19" (0.483mm)
2nd - 0.18" (0.457mm)
Then got onto installing the ARP Rod Bolts, all the pistons, & checking all the clearances.
Cyl.1 - 0.020" (0.50mm)
End Float - 0.008" (0.203mm)
Cyl.2 - 0.020" (0.50mm)
End Float - 0.008" (0.203mm)
Cyl.3 - 0.015" (0.38mm)
End Float - 0.007" (0.117mm)
Cyl.4 - 0.015" (0.38mm)
End Float - 0.007" (0.117mm)
Then set about tightening up the rod bolts using a "Stretch Guage" to the recommended stretch of 0.0085" - 0.0090"
Installed the G60 headgasket & also the ARP Head Stud kit.
Fitted, clamped down the head & then got to work refitting as much as possible
Then at the days end. Got most of the stuff fitted, but theres still some parts I want to repaint before I refit them. I also have to modify the
wastegate actuator bracket as the compressor housing on this turbo is a fair bit bigger than the previous one.
Money shot!!! This is what its all about!!!
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:21 PM
I ended up stripping the guts out of an old points style distributor & also grinding off the drive gear teeth to act as a oil pump primer.
Using my Multimeter set on resistance/continuity, I was able to measure when I got oil pressure through the oil pressure switch. When there is no oil
pressure, there is a circuit to earth meaning the oil light is on, on the dash
Then I ran the drill up for a few seconds with the turbo oil drain disconnected to bleed the system.
Full flow
Oil Pressure switch now open circuited, meaning there is sufficient oil pressure.
Installed the ARP Diff Bolt kit.
A bit of home butchery. But it will do. There are 2 thick **** steel plates in there somewhere.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:21 PM
Well had a late night last night when I came home from work. 5am start & was up till 1am getting this heap abit further along.
Anyway, got the engine off the stand, fitted up the Spec stage 5 clutch kit mated to a freshly machined flywheel & used all new bolts etc.
All fitted up.
Then fitted up the gearbox & swung the whole lot into place using a crane dragging it up from the bottom. A ton easier than any other way I can
think of.
The new turbo was a bit of a long shot if it was going to fit without having to modify some things, but it worked out 100%. the gearshift bracket I
had to modify for the old turbo had just enough clearance on the new turbo.
Its still a bit of a tight fit, but you can't really see down there anyway.
All the bracketry etc all freshly painted & the dump pipe modded with some extra bracing, as it had cracked over a period of time.
By the end of today, I had everything fitted up & turned the engine over for it to fire into life straight away. All I wanted to do was hear it
run before the weekend.
But I did wind the idle screw up & richened up the mixtures for the first fire up, due to the increase in air the engine will be sucking.
So for no I just got it going to bleed the cooling system & burn off all the gasket goo, paint & the oil etc in the engine before I fit the
wideband & start retuning it tomorrow.
Straight off the bat once I set the ignition timing & idle speed, the throttle response is 100% better than how it was before. Its ultra
responsive now. "In a sarcastic way" I reckon the cyl. port job has alot to do with that!
Haven't had a chance to drive it except for back into the shed & the clutch feels awesome for a brand new unbroken-in clutch. It does shudder a
bit, but hopefully will bed-in. But it has a solid feel, good feedback.& an positive engagement. Feels just as heavy as my previous HD Sachs
clutch kit.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:22 PM
I did get a chance to drive it the last couple of days & all is well.
Started off with 10psi to get to the servo to fill it with some fresh 98, then started winding it up. Got a pretty close handle on the tune & its
set at 20psi at the moment which I'm sure after 60km its not breathing very hard out the breather now! I reckon the rings are now bed in! haha.
Now just playing around with some ignition timing, as it feels like it could handle a couple of degrees more, I reckon cause its getting a better cyl.
fill from larger ports etc.
But so far it all feels smooth. The turbo is laggy, but only a fraction more than before & comes in more smoother too. Not "a all or nothing"
setup as with the old turbo. The turbo does wind up a bit harder & is a bit noisier too. But it can still light the tyres up at will & will
squeal them in 3rd at 80 no worries. Its been raining here & feeding it on in top gear, it will build speed upto 110-120 & then blow the tyres
off with ease.
Also with the recirc Tial BOV, its awesome. No more whoooossssh noise when taking off. Loving it now.
Steering is somewhat "interesting" with the locker too. Very hard when making tight corners, pulling into driveways etc. But its all good! haha
Now for the bad part....
I had a quick look under the car this arvo & found its leaking from the input shaft seal. So back out with the box & will hopefully get a new
seal tomorrow.
Kind of ****ed, as the gearbox was 100% before & decided to replace all the seals as a matter of course just to be on the safe side & it has
bit me in the ****.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:22 PM
I decided to weld the diff, as the last time out I had some problems with one wheel breaking loose at the track.
I also didn't want to spend $1000 on a LSD or torque bias diff with the high possibility of breaking the gearbox, as I have had my fair share of
broken 020's. Also spending $400+ on a spooled centre for the same reason.
So the cheapest & quickest option was to weld it up.
If the box breaks, I'm only up for a couple of gaskets & a set of ARP diff. bolts, which I can still reuse & not an expensive diff centre
& gearbox rebuild.
If this breaks, I just move onto the next diesel 4spd & do the same again.
So far so good with the car. Been daily driving it with no major drama's going on & the clutch has bed in nicely. Although it is squealy &
shudders, but I suppose thats all part of the deal with a drag style clutch.
I backed off the ignition timing a couple of degrees, as the weather over here has started to get hot coming into summer. But its a very safe tune,
which not only lights the tyres up from 60-90, but also gets 400-420km to 35L.
Tested the 2 step today & the car was happy to do an easy 2nd gear, 60+m powerskid on the rev limiter.
Hopefully get back to the track by the end of the year depending on the bank balance.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:23 PM
The turbo has made a big difference to the drivability of the car yes.
It is a tiny bit lazier, but also comes on alot smoother when it does, so it doesn't just hit 4K & blow the tyres off in 2nd. The car overall is
a much nicer car to drive regarding the power etc. With the locked diff & drag clutch, it can **** you off in town & traffic jams though!
With the new setup it will hammer the old setup. Its running 4-5 clicks less on the boost controller (5-8psi?), a few more degrees ignition timing
(static) & also roughly 1.2-1.3 degree's per psi timing pull on the boost retard & it pulls a fair bit harder. Especially when dropping it
into 4th at 130!
At the moment, its pretty safe & anyone can drive it without having to worry about it pinging etc. For the track I could screw the mixtures up
alittle bit more rich to idle around 11:1 A/F, add a couple of clicks of boost & pull a tiny bit of timing & it will thump the old setup.
To answer you question about the tune. I have maxed out the fueling setup I currently have & still running less boost as before.
The only down side I've really found with the K-jet turbo setup is in gear roll on eg. 60 in 3rd, it will ping when loaded up (floor it & build
boost), 100-110 roll on in 4th it will also ping. Too much load & can't pull enough timing out. The MSD is limited to 15 degrees timing pull max.
But if you take off, plant it in 2nd & race through the gears, it has no drama's. I've found its all a trade off between all out race tune, or a
safe streeter/daily tune, which anyone can drive without me worrying about it pinging.
I've been both very surprised & pretty happy with how fuel efficient it has been. I done 395km over the last couple of days & thumped it hard
the last day & put 32L in it.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:24 PM
Well I finally got out & had some fun testing the new clutch, the 2-Step again & also my new in-car camera.
So I thank you for being patient while I gather some videos for those who are interested.
Anyone who has any tips or suggestions about video editing, please don't hesitate to offer advice. I'm new to this & have very limited computer
skills. But had a bit of a play around to try & make it arty & alittle bit funny at the end too? haha
But here you go.
2nd gear 2-Step launch/powerskid pedaling it down the road 60+m
I did try it in 3rd, but it needs a much bigger rpm pill to help build boost.
Power run. (I won't post the speed, but anyone who knows there way around a Mk1 speedo will know how fast it wraps around the speedo if you look
closely enough. "km/h too!")
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:25 PM
Since bedding in the engine with 20psi in less than 10mins, I changed the oil & have done approx 1500km of daily duties.
Since I replaced oil, it hasn't used a drop of oil or breathed anything out the breather filter & only a tiny bit of vapours in the catch can
tubing.
The clutch has settled in & is spot on. It shudders a tiny bit, but not all the time. Just depends how you take off from lights etc. It rarely
squeals now too.
I'm hoping if the weather holds up, I'll get it to the track on the 18th this month. Hopefully picking up a new tow car soon, so I'll be able to
get to more events over the summer. If the car holds up.
Been practicing my staging & launching techniques, so hopefully I can get into the 1.8 60fts & run onto a 104-106mph pass.
Low - flat 13's might be on the cards!!!!
After having a play with this setup for a while, I'd like to try a auto setup, test it & then make a start on the 20v setup I think.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:26 PM
An update from the Portland VW drag
Car ran awesome all weekend & coped a hiding the entire time! Got my money's worth out of the 3-step module, drag clutch & locked diff.
I think I got the most runs in out of all the VW's entered with approx 17 pass', fastest watercooled ET, 2nd fastest watercooled MPH, won all the
elimination rounds & then red lit in the final!!!! DOH!!!
Pre-loaded the clutch a tad too much, it got hot & bit & resulted in a red light!
But.....
Previous best 1/4 half track time was 8.95@80.53MPH 2.223 60ft with the old T3 setup only after 3 test runs.
It ran 8.153@86.04mph, 1.85 60ft in full street trim & weight!!! Best MPH for the weekend was 88MPH.
The only adjustments we made throughout the weekend were suspension tweaks & tire pressures.
We did remove all the seats etc. but it went slower!
Its running very consistent now & ran 5 8.4 pass' & several 1.9 60fts.
Very happy with a .8 & 6mph increase over the old setup over the 1/8th. Hopefully this results in a 12.8-12.9@ approx 105-107mph over the 1/4 in
full street trim/weight.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:26 PM
Some pics from the weekend.
There are plenty more, but can't really be stuffed uploading 200+ pics sorry
Heres one of the 2 in-car vid's that were taken. The camera battery went flat, cause I forgot to turn it off after a run! DOH!!!!!
LHR spring perch decided to pick something up in the threads & lock up severely!!! not good, so the last resort was to pull out the biggest
multi-grips I had in my toolbox!
Sometimes you just have to get it done, no matter what happens. We'd already set the other side up, so I had to even up the ride height!
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:28 PM
I finally got a chance to run at a full track after the local track had been washed out for a couple of months & tonight didn't disappoint one
bit.
Managed to get 4 runs in, which for the amount of people that turn up, its pretty bloody good.
Car is still full weight/trim with street tyres & the only mods from my daily driver setup is a VW Motorsport rear trans mount, a couple of bump
& rebound adjustments to the shocks & tyre pressures. No ride height changes.
Anyway they went like this
13.44@104.8mph 2.12 60ft (8.73@83.3mph 1/8th which is miles off the cars best of 8.15@86mph)
Very happy with this run, as my prediction was a 12.8-12.9@105-107mph in a previous post.
4th run was go for broke and...
It launched hard off the 2-step, shook the tyres & smashed the RH outer CV joint.
Doesn't matter though. the car is running awesome & having a stock drivetrain handling 20+pass', plus the huge amount of street abuse,
powerskids, clutch dumps off the 2-step in 2nd gear, I was expecting it to break sooner or later.
But for now, I'll replace the CV & head back out again for the 12....
13.00 pass. Sorry, it was off my phone taken by a mate. & it doesn't have zoom. I really should of taken a camera with me, as I knew it was going
to be a good night.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:28 PM
On to some repairs.
My first thought was it shattered a CV, but after actually looking at it, instead of just hearing it, It appears to be a different story.
It ended up snapping the driveshaft. Clean as a whistle too!!!!!
New shaft fitted & with the old cv's repacked with some cv moly grease.
Change the rear trans mount over to the stock diesel one & the front tyres
Quick wash & its back on the road for the daily 600km grind for work.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:29 PM
A couple of pics from the last street meet.
Note the people laughing!!! you have no choice but to get used to it.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:30 PM
Well I know its April fools day, but this is no lie.
Woke up this morning, looked outside & sure enough, it was "drag racing" weather!!!!
Headed upto the track early & there was bugger all people there & was lucky enough to get in 3 hot laps! No waiting!!! Couldn't believe my
luck!!
Anyway, straight off the trailer
13.068@105.51mph - 2.04 60ft, 8.42@84.61mph. Waaay off the normal 60ft & half track pace.
Then!!!!!!
[B]12.993@106.87mph [/B]- 2.06 60ft, 8.38@85.46mph. Still off the 60ft & half track pace, but finally ran a full street trimmed & weight[B]12!!!![/B]
Last run I launched hard & mashed it & at half track started smoking like all buggery.
Didn't get a time slip due to below, but I looked up & still ran a smoking 13.1! haha
anyway, I broke it!
Stock pistons & rods with K-Jet can only take sooo much abuse.
Oiled down most of the track & made a mess everywhere! Oil was pumping out the breather like it was going out of fashion!
I dare say, its melted a piston & broke a few rings to pump out that much oil! It still runs 100% & drove it onto the trailer etc. But its now
taken up smoking!!!
Where to next after this. I don't know. I've accomplished what I set out to do & now at the cross roads with not only this car, as its soooo
bloody rusty its not funny & not worth the time & effort to fix, but also racing VW's in general! Can't be stuffed building another car to
replace it.
I suppose we'll see what we'll see.
Some more carnage pics.
It still runs & runs smooth as, but just pumps out vapour from the catch can! haha
and its final resting place before it gets stripped down & parted out I reckon
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:30 PM
Well I thought I'd go out & move the car as its been sitting for awhile & blocking the shed.
It fired up straight away & ran smooth as.
After about 5 mins of idling, the catch can began to puff like a steam train as expected! haha, but while it was idling, I had a quick look over
everything & I found that the warm-up reg boost signal hose has split in half!!!!!
mmmmmmmmmm, $1 piece of hose caused the meltdown it. I hate when that happens.
I know why, as the warm-up reg port barb was jammed hard up against the oil filter housing which also jams the hose against it.
Over a period of time & multiple hot/cold operations, I dare say it got hard & finally cracked under positive pressure ie BOOST!
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:31 PM
Theres still a few tenths left in the old K-Jet!
The 12.99 pass was with a 2.0 60ft.
Normally 0.1 faster at 60ft is roughly 0.2 faster at full track.
"IF" it had of 60ft its pb which is a 1.8, it would run onto a 12.5-12.6.
This isn't too bad for a extreme budget build slapper engine & stock K-jet with a few mods to richen the mixture.
It also gets pretty good fuel economy too, at roughly 33-36mpg using the stock ratio'd diesel 4spd.
I also had been using this car as a daily driver doing roughly 400-600km a week!
The next engine will be a fully built 20v with EFI, custom home built mk1 010 auto with roughly 4000-4500 high stall.
All the performance auto internals have been ordered along with all the engine bits too. So its just a matter of time.
The place I sourced the auto bits from build transaxles for dune buggys with LSX 500+hp engines in them & they still use the beetle, golf 010 auto
housing.
This will all start happening in the next few months, but for now, I'm concentrating on throwing in another reringer banger 8v, get back out there
& race it.
Then build the auto & test it with the 8v, hopefully run faster over 400m & then step up to the big hp 20v.
So theres going to be some fun times ahead.
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
motha
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:32 PM
No work has gone on lately, as I've got another project I've got to finish first here to get some much required shed space back.
But I did get a package today which brought a smile to my dial!!!
Transaxle Engineerings finest!!!! Bring on the auto build sometime soon!!!
This is will be the same auto internals that Transaxle use in their 500+hp LSX powered dune buggys.
Basically it turns the stock 010 auto into a full manual reverse pattern shift with all the good gear inside to handle the power.
Will get a high stall built locally. Thinking around 4000-4500rpm high stall.
[/QUOTE]
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
motha
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:32 PM
Well the car has sat untouched now since April 1st & has been a thorn in my side taking up space & normally getting in the way around home.
So I decided after I'd finished a few other major jobs I've had on the go & some upkeep around the house,I'd move it, clean off all the oil
& mess it spewed out all underneath the car, then yank the engine & pull it apart for an autopsy.
Well not in my wildest dreams did I think what it would have been due to how it unloaded the oil out of the breather & 300m of the race track!
All the pistons ended up fine! The rings also look OK as well. The bores are that shot, that you clearly see the rings down the sides of the
pistons!!! haha
Yes & its been like since I even fitted the first turbo!!! Very surprising how much stock pistons, rods etc. can take!
Anyway. I had alook all over & while looking at the rings, I noticed this below!
Blew the centre compression ring out of a 3 layer factory G60 headgasket!!!
It blew in 2 spots in Cyl.1 & one spot in Cyl.2. All the rest were all ok.
While I've got it all out & half apart, I'll strip it down completely & just have a look how the rings & bearing have faired after 10K
of total street & race abuse!
After all, its 99% still stock, apart from the G60 headgasket & my home porting! Stock valves, guides (shot to buggery!) etc etc.
Hopefully have it all back together this weekend & driving a again, although this time I'll fit a tall ratio 5spd & a HD 210 clutch kit I
have here for the daily commute for a while.
I have another car here that needs a trans rebuilt. So once that trans is all sorted, I'll bang the locked diff diesel 4spd back in it with the stage
5 clutch & head back out racing! Hopefully by that time, the weather will have started to clear up!
Wonder how much more abuse this thing can handle!!!
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
motha
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:33 PM
Well I managed to get home early enough to get into the shed to continue part 2 of the engine autopsy!
First up was the big end bearings, which appear to have copped a hiding! Scratched up pretty bad considering, but nothing had picked up & scored
them that bad.
Cyl. 1 crank journal though doesn't look to flash either. But I reckon a quick once over with some fine emery should bring it back to ok.
All the other big end journals are still in good condition, although I haven't measured everything up.
Next up were the pistons & I'm glad I decided to pull the complete engine down for a "just in case" feeling.
My first though about melting/cracking a piston had come true!!!
No.1 piston had cracked the top-2nd compression ring land in one spot & also cracked through the 2nd ring-oil scraper ring land too!
No.2 piston had cracked through the top-2nd ring land in two places & you can actually see where the cyl. pressure has got in behind it &
pushed the ring land section against the cyl. wall, as the section is nice & clean.
It also jammed up the oil scraper ring too!
All other pistons & rings are all ok.
Main bearings also appear to have copped a hiding as well, but don't look too bad either.
I also got some better picks of the head gasket damage on both No1 & 2 cyl.'s
Cyl. 1 big section on the inlet side
Also cyl.1, but on the exhaust side
Cyl. 2 blown section on the inlet side too.
This was the best picture taken of the big ends unfortunately
Cyl. 1 big end journal
Cyl. 1 Piston. You can clearly see the 2 cracks on the ring lands
Cyl. 2 Piston. This is where the first crack is & you can see how the ring land is nice & clean to the left of the crack.
This is were the other crank is/ends abit over 90° around the piston. You can see that the ring land is clean to the right of the crack, indicating
where the ring land has been pushed out & made contact with the cyl. wall.
Main bearings..
Nearly all the parts are ready for the bin! haha
I think the car will get used to this mounting position over the next half of the year with future abuse & upgrades!!!
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
motha
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:33 PM
Well everything "was" going to plan the other week!!
Engine is all stripped down, cleaned
Had a friend over for the weekend & we both stripped the other engine, cleaned, inspected all the parts & picked out the best bits. Only the
pistons survived, which is good for me.
I started off cleaning up different bits & pieces, prepping the new flywheel & stock HD clutch, repainting the gearbox & rebuilding
another set of driveshafts to suit the new tall ratio diesel 5spd with 100mm flanges for the daily commute. ("only for now though!" It will get the
full race box & race clutch later on, one I get a few other things sorted around home & the weather starts to clear up.)
My friend started to assemble the engine, measure up all the main & big end clearance & then prep the pistons.
Then I find out I only had a set of rings for ONE piston!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SO, I recheck my order receipt & a receipt from a previous order when I last built the engine.
I had ordered the same part # rings & same quantity of ONE set of pistons rings as before, so everything at my end is spot on!
Only to have ONE set for ONE piston sent!
So its on hold for now. Sorry peoples. I really wanted it sorted this weekend, as I have a long list of things to get through & get done too,
which all gets put back until this is running again.
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
motha
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:34 PM
Well after a stuff up with the parts ordering, I finally got the missing parts & got to work ASAP.
I basically went out to the shed & started at 1.00pm & didn't come in till the engine was built, installed & running which the first fire
up was at 4.40am!!!
Right now I've been up for 2 days straight.
Great to be driving it again.
Only a couple of tiny things to sort out, but it now has a diesel 5spd, so it has tall ratios. 2600@100km/h! Love it.
So now the Golf has a tall ratio 5spd, my old HD stock style clutch & open diff. Heaps better car to drive & cruise on long trips.
I also detuned it a fair bit, but it still turns the tyres hard in 2nd. The clutch won't let the tyres turn in 3rd. Just slips.
But with some boost taken out & some more timing, it still feels like it will run a mid-low 13 in full street trim.
The 5spd will be short lived though, as I'm going to make a start on the auto soon. But will refit the locked diff diesel box, drag clutch & race
it again to try & improve on the 12.99. Then fit & test the auto setup & try & get on top of the high stall setup. Hoping for around a
4500 stall.
But for now. Just cruising daily duties.
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
motha
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 10:35 PM
I finally got a pair of stock 13" rims widened to 6" & a pair of 205/60-13 M&H street/drag tyres.
They just fit with bugger all room between the tyre & coilover spring perch
I could of gone with a light weight alloy, like a weld rim or bogart etc, but I wanted to keep the stock-ish looking apearance.
Can't wait to test them out.
But will have to wait, as the weather here has been crap as & they are only running the strip once a month at the minute.
Also have to refit the drag clutch & locked diff box of gears too. But can't do that till the clutch hs been balanced with the other engine.
Ah well
Hard to believe that these are actual a legal street tyre with a DOT rating!!
Full slick with 2 grooves!!! haha
Oh also a cross ply. not sure how they'll go in the braking zone with the radials on the back.
If experience is anything to go by, a RWD car with cross ply's on the back & radials on the front isn't the best to drive at all!
Also got a chance to play with the suspension setup to sort out some clearance issues.
Found out I had to raise it more than I'd like, as it now looks horrible sitting up this high, but...
Function over form!!
Also with it raised up, the front tyres, clear the coilover spring perch's without the need of 6mm spacer rings too & it give it a more stockish
look when the stock wheels are fitted all round.
On the initial R/test to sort out the alignment & "re-round" the tyres, I put them to the test & holys%#t!!! These things hook up! HARD!
As its got the stock HD clutch, it just launched in 1st, hooked up, into 2nd & the boost came on strong & the clutch started to slip!
Can't wait to fit the drag clutch & gearbox setup & really lean on it!
Just have to play the waiting game now for the street meets to start up again, once the weather gets better.
Anyway. Some pics of the new ride height, street drag setup after a clean up.
I won't be driving on these all the time, if anything & store them properly.
But I will use them to drive to & from the strip once the package is reliable enough. As I live 1.5hrs away from the nearest drag strip, so it has
to be ultra reliable at that!!!
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
grogy
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posted on August 15th, 2011 at 12:12 AM
gud read, u get pulled over 4 sure wit those tyres
motha
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posted on August 15th, 2011 at 08:41 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by grogy
gud read, u get pulled over 4 sure wit those tyres
Cheers grogy.
You'd be surprised how little attention you get in these kinds of cars!
I lost my licence early last year for doing an 80km/h powerskid in a 50 zone, but he didn't believe the car could do that or make that much power
& put the tyre squeal down to another car taking off! This was at 10.30 at night, no one else was around & also dry surface. (if it was wet,
it has no problems turning them waaayy beyond the legal hwy speed limit)
He even took a step back, had a look over it & said "pfffft, yeah right!"
So I was lucky to not get done for hoon laws, impoundment & such over a long weekend!
But got off with 25km/h over.
But still wore my soles out for a month!
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
dejan
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posted on August 15th, 2011 at 09:07 PM
WWWWWAAAAOOOOOOO the best MK1 8v turbo
motha
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posted on August 15th, 2011 at 10:06 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by dejan
WWWWWAAAAOOOOOOO the best MK1 8v turbo
Cheers matey, but I wouldn't go as far as saying that.
The car is rusty as all buggery!
Definitely a 60ft looking car!
but hoping to change that next year sometime with a full resto & substantial power upgrade too!
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
