| [ Total Views: 2179 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 92927 ] |
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 cnfabo
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| posted on September 29th, 2011 at 11:13 PM |
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my home made adjustable sway bars "NOW TESTED"
hi guys, as you all know whiteline are not making the adjustable sway bars anymore so i thought i would have a crack at making my own..first i thought
i would get someone to bend them up for me but well, this was going to be a very exy excercise...so i searched the net and found another style of bar
that is getting use these days so i went this route instead.....
materials are chromoy tubing 22mm front and 25mm rear with a 2mm wall thickness and some 3mm mild steel plate and also 10mm thick alloy plate or bar..
i dont have a work bench or anything like that so these where made all on the ground and the tools i used was only a drill,grinder , mig,file yadda
yadda.....
i have not really tested them yet but will update on how they performed...i do have a event on 22nd and 23rd october but really should test them
before hand...anyways here they are....any possitive or negative feedback welcome.....
cheers fabo....
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cnfabo
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| posted on September 29th, 2011 at 11:46 PM |
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sorry guys i have more photos but have no idea how to post them.those three photos i fluked....
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cnfabo
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| posted on September 29th, 2011 at 11:52 PM |
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more
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cnfabo
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| posted on September 29th, 2011 at 11:55 PM |
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and fluked those to....
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dangerous
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| posted on September 30th, 2011 at 05:13 AM |
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Very cool Chris!
Dja get your new heads yet?!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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vassy66T1
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| posted on September 30th, 2011 at 08:37 AM |
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Looks like they will do the job to me.
Nice lateral thinking and research
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HappyDaze
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| posted on September 30th, 2011 at 08:47 AM |
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Good thinking there, Chris. If they are not 'stiff' enough, you may need heavier wall tube.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on September 30th, 2011 at 09:00 AM |
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Mate i love it.
Good idea and design. I have heard of this style and even further/ finer adjustment being made with two parallell rows of holes for adjustment. How
much did it cost you as this seems like an affordable concept and easy enough to manufacture. Are you selling this or promoting for us to make our
own?
Thanks for the effort you put in and the photos to show off.
Cheers
Interested to see how it all goes from here.
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cnfabo
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| posted on September 30th, 2011 at 09:56 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Very cool Chris!
Dja get your new heads yet?!
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no but he sent me a few sneek peek photos.all the porting is done....i told darren i was in no rush.he is going to make the chembers small and deep so
if i run a lot of lift i will not have to notch my pistons.....
they cost about $140 each to make including the rod ends etc....and no i not making them to sell but im sure someone on here could very easily. 90%
of folks on her could make them better then me
and thanks guys for the comments, i hope they work good.....
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JVLRacing
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| posted on September 30th, 2011 at 10:55 AM |
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nice thinkin outside the square!....u wont need any heavier bar work there...
Ur adjustment points look ok too...JVL
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Beetspeed
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| posted on October 2nd, 2011 at 04:44 AM |
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Very well done! Love that style, its very flexible to make (tube diameter) and adjustable.
What does your rear set-up weigh all together?
I run the Whiteline rear set-up, but even the solid 24mm seems to be too soft for me (strangely enough).
'75 1303 'Renner' 2.2 T4 turbo
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cnfabo
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| posted on October 2nd, 2011 at 10:41 AM |
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i kept reminding myself to weigh them then forgot, but i will when i take them off for inspection after my next event....but i can tell you the bar
and alloy arms together felt a lot lighter then my 19mm solid bars.....
the reason i went for 22mm front and 25mm rear was because i knew that some of the hill climb boys used bigger ones...and when i spoke too adam
debiasi he said he lifted wheels to much with the big bars so i decided to go a bit smaller...
i have to put in my entry forms and i have not tested them yet..im thinking just to gamble and do the events without testing them first..
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Snap Crackle Bang
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| posted on October 2nd, 2011 at 06:04 PM |
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One other way of getting slightly less or more stiffness out of the rear bar would be moving the bushes closer together or further apart.
You will know which way you want to go after a couple of events.
I'd like to do something similar on my super.
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lou0060
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| posted on October 15th, 2011 at 10:44 AM |
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great idea and build. looks simple yet effective and if you need to change you only need to remake the tube section.
not sure Snap's theory will work tho as the poly bushes wouldn't make much difference to the stiffness. the stiffness is a function of the
torsional stiffness of the tube and not the mounting points in this type of setup.
If you move the bushes closer together you would loose rigidy in the system and the tube ends would move up and down so I guess this might be what he
is meaning but ideally you want the stiffness controlled by the torsion twist of the tube rather than the lack of rigidy in the system.
looking forward to hearing how they go.
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cnfabo
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| posted on October 15th, 2011 at 03:10 PM |
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i hope they work, im racing both days next weekend and so far i have only taken it for a spin for a few minutes....who needs track testing
days,,,aaahhhh.....ill test while racing.....fingers crossed....
and thanks for the comments....
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 matberry
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| posted on October 16th, 2011 at 01:30 PM |
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Belated well done, they look great, something I was looking to build in the near future. Keen to hear whether they are 'big' enough.
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cnfabo
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| posted on October 24th, 2011 at 12:24 PM |
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well guys and girls the verdict is in and they work great....i have not taken them off to inspect as yet but will do soon.....
the first day i used them on a hillclimb "old mining road" and had them on the softest setting front and rear all day due to lazziness to have a
play.......i thought they wrked well....
the next day i races at collie motorplex...the first practice runs it was picking up the rear inside wheel and spinning on corners even with a
lsd...hhhmmmm......my initial thought was the bars are to big so i had a chat to some fellow racers and one of them suggested starteing from the
hardest setting and working back....
so i had the rear on the hardest and the front on the second hardest and all i can say was "wow" what a difference.....so what was happening was i
had to much body roll on my practice runs which caused the inside wheel spin...now i wished i had them adjusted for the hilllclimb....oh well....i
would like to try some stiffer bars now..di i go thicker wall next????????
all i noticed was the box tube on the lower front shock was twisting, so i will need to get some thicker wall tube.....
thanks guys....
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PAZZAN
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| posted on October 25th, 2011 at 05:47 PM |
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sounds good, be sure to keep those back wheels on the deck even a zf diff will spin with the back wheel in the air they are Limited SLIP .....
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Beetspeed
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| posted on October 25th, 2011 at 06:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by PAZZAN
sounds good, be sure to keep those back wheels on the deck even a zf diff will spin with the back wheel in the air they are Limited SLIP .....
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You'd say a LSD would work like that, but as I understood it, the limited part of it is the relative difference in wheel speed it allows before it
engages. Once engaged, a Limited Slip Diff is actually 100% locked!
Most old ZF's might have worn discs though to make it even more confusing of what happening or not happening and why.
Anyways, good to hear your own sway bar works so well!!
'75 1303 'Renner' 2.2 T4 turbo
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PAZZAN
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| posted on October 25th, 2011 at 06:27 PM |
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My zf diff work great around the track but if you jack up one rear wheel on the car it would spin and it was new with about 30 pounds pre load
breaking strain.if you want 100% lock up, get a locker.
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