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 Stigandr
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 posted on November 8th, 2011 at 11:20 AM |
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Installing a NEW Highbeam Relay
Hi Guys,
I know this has been addressed a little in the past on this forum, but I am in need of some further clarification.
My 70 Beetle had the old original latching relay, but the plunger part is rusted away. I then ordered a new one, and I assume it is right as it seems
to be the only one that anyone offers (and it is stated as being the right replacement).
My problem is this...
The old relay has terminals: S, F, 30, 56, and 56a
The NEW relay terminals: S, 30, 56, 56a and 56b
I also read somewhere on this forum that;
30 = power
56 = dash light
56a = low
56b = high
To date neither myself or a local Auto Electrician (the only one in town) can work out how the NEW relay works. He can not even get it to SWITCH for
us at all.
Can anyone clarify all the terminals for me and indicate which ones on the old relay go with which on the NEW relay?
Cheers...
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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Joel
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| posted on November 8th, 2011 at 03:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stigandr
I also read somewhere on this forum that;
30 = power
56 = dash light
56a = low
56b = high
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That's a bit off.
They are both essentially the same relay just the terminals are labelled different.
30 is constant battery power on everything in the car.
It should be a big red one that comes off the constant power fuse
56 is the headlight on signal from the light switch
S is the ground from the high beam dipper switch
56a is the low beam feed out that goes to the 2 low beam fuses
and 56b is high beam feed, it's marked F on older relays.
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Stigandr
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| posted on November 8th, 2011 at 03:25 PM |
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Thanks Joel. Back to the Auto Electrician on Friday as there is a couple of other little issues too. We shall see how that goes. Hopefully we will
get it all working as it should.
Cheers..
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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grumble
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| posted on November 8th, 2011 at 07:18 PM |
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f that doesn't fix it I think I may have another relay similar to the original unit.PM if stuck Cheers les
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Stigandr
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| posted on November 11th, 2011 at 08:39 AM |
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Okay, so is there some trick I am missing or something with the newer relays?
The old one works fine when plugged in and everything functions as it should apart from the plunger being absent so it does not latch the switch. If
you latch it manually the high beams work fine.
When I (or the auto electrician) plug in one of the new ones using the terminal matchings as Joel indicated.....nothing happens. We can not get one
of the new types of relays to SWITCH at all. Is something else needed? Is there a trick or some black magic ritual I need to perform?
Right now we are all stumped. 
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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Joel
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| posted on November 11th, 2011 at 08:45 AM |
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Make sure the high beam switch is actually working properly and grounding the relay when you pull the lever.
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Stigandr
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| posted on November 11th, 2011 at 08:52 AM |
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Thanks Joel. I do believe it was grounding the old relay properly. The old one was switching, just had no plunger to flick the latch. I will check
again though. 
I thought the troubles I had with getting this thing to start were frustrating. I am now feeling that they were nothing compared to this....as this
should be fairly simple.....or so I though.
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on November 11th, 2011 at 04:02 PM |
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I have found that over the years....
no auto electrician can work out VW s wiring systems...
so, its better to work it out Yourself... if You can
best of LUck
:LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Joel
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| posted on November 12th, 2011 at 10:28 AM |
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Are you sure it's not a dud relay out of the box?
stick 12volts on 30 and ground S and make sure it pulls in.
As Lee said alot of auto electricians have trouble with VWs and the high beam uses a latching relay setup unlike most other cars which have a multi
position stalk instead.
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Stigandr
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| posted on November 12th, 2011 at 11:17 AM |
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If it is a dud, then i have managed to buy two faulty ones. One from cip and one from CVD. Neither want to work.
Both the auto elect (who seemed to know what he was doing) and myself could not get the new one to switch in the car or out. I will try again today
("stick 12volts on 30 and ground S and make sure it pulls in.") or tomorrow though.
That is the right relay to replace the old latching style though isn't it?
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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Stigandr
Casual Dubber
Posts: 29
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Registered: February 20th, 2011
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Location: Armidale, NSW
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| posted on November 15th, 2011 at 02:10 PM |
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For the record, if anyone is ever having issues installing one of the new style VW Beetle highbeam switching relays (Part No. 111-941-583), that
replace the old latching ones....I found this;
http://www.oldvolkshome.com/headrelay.pdf
It would appear that you do not connect the red constant power wire to terminal 30 on the relay as with the old ones. Now you make a bridge wire to
run from terminal 56 (headlight switch) to terminal 30 and power is received that way.
I am no auto electrician, so do not ask me. I just found the above pdf when searching online. And, I have now tried it on my bug. It worked first
go. I have low beam, high beam, and my driving lights which I thought also had issues, now work too.
I am a happy camper....
Thanks again for all the help guys, and hopefully this may help others too.
Cheers...
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 15th, 2011 at 02:36 PM |
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Great News Stig
do You use another relay for Your driving lights?
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Stigandr
Casual Dubber
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| posted on November 15th, 2011 at 02:52 PM |
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Yes Lee, there is another relay in there.
The bug had them already installed when I bought it. They were done right though. There is an on/off switch on the dash and they are wired into the
high beam on the headlights.
The relay on the driving lights is a louder one though....you can really hear it click when they are turned on...lol
[size=4]Stig.[/size]
(short for Stigandr, not that other Stig fellow, and I had mine before I even knew who he was.)
[size=4]I know he is ugly, but what do you expect from a FrankenPosca?[/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
Posts: 11654
Threads: 449
Registered: August 31st, 2002
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Theme: UltimaBB Pro Yellow
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| posted on November 17th, 2011 at 07:03 PM |
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that is good then..
the louder relay may be mounted somewhere where it transmits sound..
some relays have a metal case with a bracket attached
some relays have a plastic case with metal bracket and
others are all plastic case and bracket
cheers
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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grumble
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| posted on November 17th, 2011 at 07:14 PM |
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Glad to hear that you got it working,I do have a new unit and a couple of used ones if you are chasing one in the future. Cheers Les
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
Posts: 11654
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Location: SCONE in UPPER HUNTER VALLEY NSW
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| posted on November 17th, 2011 at 11:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Make sure the high beam switch is actually working properly and grounding the relay when you pull the lever.
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I had this problem recently when I painted the blinker arm as it was chipped.... and also painted the high beam contacts on the arm switch... lol
good quality epoxy paint will do that... lol
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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