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Author: Subject:  sand seal oil seals. Any generic oil seal part number for repco/autobarn?
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posted on November 17th, 2011 at 10:48 PM
sand seal oil seals. Any generic oil seal part number for repco/autobarn?


Hi,

have an empi oil seal, the ones that comes with the press in aluminium housing however the rubber seal (which didn't last long) has perished as it has spin in the bore of the aluminium housing, rather than the pulley spinning inside it.

Typical EMPI senario...

Anyone know the part number for a new seal (not the aluminium housing) but the seal inside for say a generic supplier that i can take to any specialised auto spares store?

will use some form of sealant/adhesive on the outside to make up for any small losses in material in the aluminium seal housing.

thanks,
Chris.




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no.gif posted on November 17th, 2011 at 11:43 PM



I believe they are a special part Chris

but maybe You can find something similar...

Did You glue the old one in?
I suppose it wasn;'t made as good as it should be...
as usual with chinese EMPI

I have thought of measuring and seeing if I could find something that will seal the gap but never got around to it...

I've never heard of anyone else doing it either...

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posted on November 17th, 2011 at 11:56 PM



sikaflex 225 black will fix it up real good :crazy:



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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 12:33 AM



maybe i should just go back to the stock pulley for the moment.

I am hitting the beach at straddie next week though. will be stirring up some sand (eek!)




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New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 12:34 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by h
sikaflex 225 black will fix it up real good :crazy:


Was thinking more a loctite.

just to hold the seal in better. I know i know, it should be press fit, but will see what i can get.

it if can last a few 1000 k's till i get another (cos i need it by next week) i will be happy.




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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 05:35 AM



When are you going to straddie mate? Im going over next Friday for a week!



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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 08:39 AM



Chris,

To get a tighter fit, go around the housing surface with a centre punch making lots of indents. Remember it's alloy, so don't bash too hard. The dents actually raise the metal around it's outside diameter. This will make up for any wear and also give whatever glue you use some extra surface area to grab onto. I would use permatex aviation gasket, the kind you paint on, tried and true on engines with harmonic balancers, so you know it will handle vibration.

Don't forget to lube the seal with oil before you install the pulley.

Take the old seal to a bearing supplier, they should be able to measure it up and match it.

Regards,

Matt.




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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 09:02 AM



Thanks Matt :tu: That sounds like a great plan. will get stuck in this morning :) Much appreciated.

Haha, nice work Mick! will be there from Sunday till Sunday (starting this sunday). Maybe when you get over we should hit the pub fri or saturday nite? My partner and I are staying in Point Lookout at her folks place Cnr Timbin Rd & Bambara St. I'll talk to her and maybe put on a BBQ or sumfin, we'll see.




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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 09:10 AM



There is no need to centre punch the thin aluinium sleeve as it will just distort, just use the correct grade of loctite to take up the wear, as for the seal itself as suggested take it to a bearing supply place, i know you can buy the seal assembly as a part by itself.
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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 06:04 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
maybe i should just go back to the stock pulley for the moment.

I am hitting the beach at straddie next week though. will be stirring up some sand (eek!)



aaahhh that's the problem chris....
You need Your stock pulley as those sand seal pulleys are smooth aren't they... lol

does much oil come out with a leaking seal Chris????

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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 10:50 PM



lol.

Thanks guys.

Yea Lee, heaps of oil spewed out. MASSIVE amounts. enough on some occasions to top up easily 500ml at a time. Got enough oil leaking out to go on the exhaust and make big clouds of smoke down the highway that would make fog inside the car. was horrible lol.

What happened, was that the seal spun in the housing (gripped on the sand seal pulley), and machined out its own housing but a very small amount. The seal would slip out of the housing and spin on the pulley, and oil would just spew out, particularly on 'up hill' inclines. Amazing the mess it makes.

Am proud to say its now cured :). got another seal, but the best the bearing shop i went to could do (should have went to another) was slightly oversized. So i tried to machine out teh housing, but anyways, fitting of the seal went pearshaped and the loctite make it very difficult to pop it out and buy another to start again. Ducked over to Leon's Motors before they closed and bought another whole sand seal assembly for $22. Now the back of my motor looks the driest it ever has since i had registered it lol. Happy camper... apart from this hesitation problem on this stromberg carb i got :td:




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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 05:10 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88

... apart from this hesitation problem on this stromberg carb i got :td:


If it is a strom berg off a holden six. you can drill out the idle jet about 0.1mm and it will improve.




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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 09:13 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by vwo60
There is no need to centre punch the thin aluinium sleeve as it will just distort, just use the correct grade of loctite to take up the wear, as for the seal itself as suggested take it to a bearing supply place, i know you can buy the seal assembly as a part by itself.


Oops! I forgot about the sleeve. Forget the centre punching in that case.

Regards,

Matt.




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question.gif posted on November 19th, 2011 at 11:49 AM



anyone else use sand seals on the crankshaft..

never ever thought about fitting one...

maybe better without one????

Lee




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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 12:10 PM



Sand seal is more about stopping sand getting sucked into the engine under de-acceleration. Glue it in with arildite (2 pack appoxy) or the equivilent 21st centry adhesive.
I have the type that fit directly into the crankcase (requires machining). They were repco from memory and a leather type seal not rubber.
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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 12:40 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
anyone else use sand seals on the crankshaft..

never ever thought about fitting one...

maybe better without one????

Lee


I do.

Never had any issues with it. Have had the thing on 2 different engines now over the last year. Probably have only done about 30-40000 km with it.

No leaks. But I did notice on my old engine when it started to wear out the seal did weep slightly. Due to the increased blowby. But as long as your crankcase has an adequate breather system it won't pressurise and push oil past the seal.


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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 02:23 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
anyone else use sand seals on the crankshaft..

never ever thought about fitting one...

maybe better without one????

Lee


With ur sealed engine bay Lee you should be alright without it. Its only if you got alot of dust/sand/dirt thrown in the air behind the car, with the engine breather setup (The way the crank pulley draws raw air into the block) there are concerns for exposed engines to draw all this stuff into the crankcase.

Its cheap insurance though, you will need a sand seal pulley.




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New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 02:26 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88

... apart from this hesitation problem on this stromberg carb i got :td:


If it is a strom berg off a holden six. you can drill out the idle jet about 0.1mm and it will improve.


Thanks Dave :tu:, will do! yes its off an early holden.
THe only way it seems to really pick up is when its warm i have to put my boot to the floor, and i think its the 'power circuit' that then kicks in? and midrange onwards its ok.




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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 10:32 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ragged
Sand seal is more about stopping sand getting sucked into the engine under de-acceleration. Glue it in with arildite (2 pack appoxy) or the equivilent 21st centry adhesive.
I have the type that fit directly into the crankcase (requires machining). They were repco from memory and a leather type seal not rubber.
Dave


aaahhhhh the old leather seals...

I remember selling them years ago... before they were replaced by the modern type seal...
I actually used to oil them to keep them supple...
I don't think they would be made these days...

LEE




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