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Author: Subject:  DC build
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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 09:22 AM
off my ass


ok Matt, you made me feel like a slack bastard...did some work on the DC on Fri/Sat dee.....
My evap/ac unit arrived too so now I'm sorting out where to locate it. I think it's going to go under the rear seat and I'll duct to front and rear. The color is finalised and I need a name for it as I have altered the color, any suggestions?......
the pic of it in part shade is a good indicator as to how different it is from sun/shade.
long ways to go.........

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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 09:24 AM
and this is fun to ride...


ohh and also this is another reason for not working on the DC...........
a hell of a ride.......:lol:

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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 09:25 AM



Gangreen ? :rolleyes:



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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 09:33 AM
green like your teeth


Quote:
Originally posted by LUFTMEISTER
Gangreen ? :rolleyes:


thank you ....... you know what's funny?. I actually like that!! :lol:

Suggestion # 1 GANGREEN.




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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 07:38 AM



good work, keep going
cool bikes ;)




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posted on May 19th, 2012 at 06:04 PM
rustnshavesex


did a lil more work today......
gone with the shavesex for those clean lines...

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posted on May 20th, 2012 at 06:35 PM



just submitted 3 weeks holiday at the start of June for massive days on the build...... whooo hoooooo , I love LSL. The thread will come alive soon.... :starhit:

shazzam




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posted on May 29th, 2012 at 08:00 PM



Hey Ian, i`ll do a trade in for mine if you like?

i have to sell , i don`t have a licence any more

:-(
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posted on May 30th, 2012 at 12:50 PM
sirens


Quote:
Originally posted by TheMiniMan
Hey Ian, i`ll do a trade in for mine if you like?

i have to sell , i don`t have a licence any more

:-(


what happened?...or maybe PM me




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posted on June 4th, 2012 at 03:49 PM



i just got too many points up... & then lost another couple while in the 12mnth good behavior bond,
so now i`m applying for special hardship order for a work license ,
because i`m a mobile mini mechanic & it will stuff me if i don`t have a license

looks like Valla is out for me this year too :-(
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posted on June 25th, 2012 at 08:55 PM



........what do you do when you offer up the front skin get it in position then you see that the skin is 10mm short either side where it is supposed to wrap around both door pillars. ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. :crazy:

Anyone got ideas? .. If I shave off the door pillar by 10mm so it can be wrapped around then the gap between the door and pillar grows, so I'll have like a 10/15mm gap once the doors go back on which isn't good.

>pours a sailor J and calms down




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posted on June 25th, 2012 at 10:25 PM



Crikey

Take a pic so we can see, sounds like the panel is SUS




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posted on June 25th, 2012 at 10:48 PM



yep pics



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posted on June 25th, 2012 at 10:53 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Crikey

Take a pic so we can see, sounds like the panel is SUS


I did take some pics tonite but it didn't show in the bad light. I'll try again tomorrow in daylight. I'm so bummed. mehh

Got the Fat Mat body deadener installed in parts tonite and just ordered one of these
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=347/cate...

got a mate coming over to help me do a 2 piece hoodliner mould this weekend. I want the clean velour look.Hoping he can weave his awesome glassing/moulding skills for me....

Anyone know of a set of rear cab seats for sale. I got nothing,naddah,zilch,zero to work with.

cheers




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posted on June 26th, 2012 at 07:57 AM
the 10mm


here are some pics fellas...........
The white chalk line is the door pillar seam to wrap around and then the black is the crease line in the skin. It's as if you need to push in the centre of the skin to ease out the curve so it clips around the pillars but I ain't about to attempt that. I dont' have magic hands :lol:

arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

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posted on June 26th, 2012 at 08:19 AM



I think you answered it. Needs to manipulate the panel to get the edge to clip over. Actually looks doable but pics are like that ;P.



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posted on June 26th, 2012 at 08:28 AM
the manipulator


Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
I think you answered it. Needs to manipulate the panel to get the edge to clip over. Actually looks doable but pics are like that ;P.


Do you want to come and manipulate? :lol::lol:
I will give it a red hot go this morning.....stay tuned.

EDIT< no success today, so I have had to manipulate it in other ways....there is no way of massaging a piece of metal that much I'm sorry.
wait and see if you can tell how I did it :lol:




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yes.gif posted on June 26th, 2012 at 09:28 PM
faker!!!!!!!


ok so I managed to fake it. I welded 3 different gauges of wire vertically down the edge closest to the pillar. Fitted the door and got an average of the gap and also making sure it was a flush wrap around from the skin to the start of the door. Got the angle grinder and shaved the 3 pieces of wire down trying to make a freehand curve that would match up to the door and curve round to the inside of the pillar.
Once I did that I weld filled what needed then applied a few skim coats of filler to smooth it out.

4 hours later ....tahhh dahhhhhhhhhhhhhh


ohh and finally smoothed out the vertical seam join and also the panel wrap join... and yes I did reinforce the seams on the inside of the panels :lol: looks sooo clean and smooth, I love it.

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posted on June 26th, 2012 at 09:32 PM
cant hear you


oooooh and some shots of the FAT MAT.........

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posted on June 26th, 2012 at 09:58 PM



:tu::tu::tu:



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posted on June 26th, 2012 at 10:09 PM
needs and wants


^^^^^^^^^ getting there brother .........getting there...........

I need a floor, as in the front floor........anyone ...anyone :smilegrin:




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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 10:37 PM



hey watch out with that exposed bog as it will suck up moisture and cause rust under it or blistering after paintin
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posted on June 28th, 2012 at 07:25 AM



^^^ If you mean under the wheel arch's I am already on it. I'm going to grind that off and fibreglass it instead, then hit it with underbody sealer. I welded in new sheet steel there and didn't like the finish, so in a fit of not thinking (most common reason is either working late or having a few too many sailor J's) just went along and used filler... Dohhh.

good to see you guys are keeping on top of me!!!! :)

still cant' find a damn complete cutout rear triton power window unit... can get all the glass,rubbers,power winder and channels for $660 but no go on a complete cut out from a wreck yet. grrrrrr




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posted on June 28th, 2012 at 09:14 PM



be screwed if I ever do that front skin weld join B/S again. Maybe my fault, but the horizontal cut/join line sux ass to try and smooth out. 4th time lucky today to try and make it uniform.



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posted on June 28th, 2012 at 10:27 PM



You want us to keep an eye on you and in the same post you mention fibreglass.....dude, tell us your joking....yeah!



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posted on June 28th, 2012 at 10:41 PM



^^I was going to smooth the filler back,almost to metal.. seal it, then glass it.... seal that, then coat it with underbody sealer. Whats wrong with that?
I want it to be super smooth so water can just flow and not get caught up in the recesses that were there .




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posted on June 28th, 2012 at 10:44 PM



Fibreglass is not metal, it delaminates from the metal and all will turn to SHIT



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thumbup.gif posted on June 29th, 2012 at 08:03 AM
stick it


Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Fibreglass is not metal, it delaminates from the metal and all will turn to SHIT


Plexus bonding composite, we use it at work on projects that mix metals and glassing. It seems to work on sculptures/students works in the past.
I'll still give it a go.
FGI use to carry it but now in receivership, I'll look for the MSDS sheets at work.




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posted on June 30th, 2012 at 06:56 PM
ohh


gang green

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posted on July 1st, 2012 at 06:03 PM
stoked


done, well....... almost :lol:

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