| [ Total Views: 1740 | Total Replies: 23 | Thread Id: 95524 ] |
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 SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 01:00 PM |
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The 1916cc Build for Zelda
Instead of adding to the previous threads about this, I thought I'd make one specific.
I'm looking into what is needed for everything to get a 1916cc. This means, everything.
I am looking at purchasing the following.
- CB Performance Aluminium Case (Bore 94mm STD DECK)
- AA 94mm Piston and Cylinder Kit, 69mm Stroke
- SCAT C35 Camshaft
- Dual 40 Kadrons
Now I need to know all about the little extras that are needed. I'm obviously starting from a bare case, which means I'll need to get everything
that actually is needed for the internals, but I don't know what that is (I'm only still learning).
I've got the whole tinware, all of the ancillaries are easy to get a hold of an all of that, my only issue is the actual internals of the engine,
what is needed there?
Better yet, who runs what combination and what was needed to achieve that combination?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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cam070
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 01:06 PM |
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Seb, take a look at these kits:
http://www.scatvw.com/master/engine_kits/
and a pair of heads
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=77
I'll be intersted to follow this as well, as this is the direction my project is going. Subi makes a load of sense, but I'd like to stay air cooled
so I've been looking into this, but would also value the opinion of others who probably know a lot more then me.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 01:21 PM |
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Woah, thanks Cam.
Now you're making me want one of these.
[url="http://www.scatvw.com/view.php?pn=2332-CAST-1"]2332 Cast Kit[/url]
If it is just that kit that I need, then someone to put it all together, I am keen.
Or hell, I'd be keen to put it together myself.
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Smiley
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 03:16 PM |
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I did a lot of research about engines before about 12 months ago before I purchased my Rod Penrose 2054.
I can highly recommend these cylinders heads, I have them on my engine and they are great. I ported the manifolds to match the ports on the heads to
help the fold. They are a great head for the price.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1794
With that case you have posted You must be aware that you will have to modify the tinware and fanhousing to fit. Because that case is clearanced for a
stroker crank the top is raised up and more curved. You need to grind the fanhousing to fit the shape of the case.
Also be aware that if you go to a stroker engine just about all of you tinware it going to need mods to fit properly on the engine. If you read back
in my build diary to where I was fitting the engine. i probably spent somewhere around 15 hours getting the tinware to fit well, and I could have
spent 3 times that! And mine is the smallest stroker available.
I would recommend that you go with a standard stroke of 69 and a 94 bore to give you the 1915. At least then you can use all of the standard tin
without needing many mods.
As far as Cam choice is concerned that's up to personal preferance in my opinion. Depends what you want to use that car for and what you want from
the engine. You said you're going to be using the vehicle to drive to work and back, so you're not going to be wanting something too wild otherwise
it's going to be a pig and you won't enjoy driving it.
Here are a few things that you definitely should do.
Full flow oiling with an external spin on oil filter is a must in my opinion. If you want your engine to last you want the oil clean and cool. make
sure you get a filter.
You must have all the tinware fitted, especially on a bigger/hotter engine. You cooler must be sealed well in the fanhousing and the engine bay to
tinware seals must all be fitted to keep the engine properly cooled.
I'm not sure what you're running currently but you will probably need to fit, as a minimum, a four vent decklid off the later supers. The vents are
there to supply enough air to both the cooling fan and cabies, if you don't have vents the engine is going to be struggling to suck enough air
through the louvers under the back window. You might even have to run some form of hood jacks or standoffs.
That's about all that I can think of at the moment. It's raining here which is distracting me, I think I'll go find some mud to play in  There are more people on here that have a lot more experience building
these things so I'm sure that they'll chime in.
Smiley 
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vwo60
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 03:58 PM |
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Do nto even concider the kadrons,use a set of 40MM webers and get the potential out of the engine.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 07:35 PM |
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From what I can find, and thanks to Smiley, I reckon the following combination will a good idea...
So, my idea, after talking with one Yevrah. 
- Mild cam (C35 SCAT)
- Stock heads.
- Lower compression.
- Stock crank.
- Stock pushrods, solid rocker shaft with the stock rockers.
- 94mm pistons.
- New lifters and bearings.
And I will be fine in running the dual 40 Kadrons as well.
I am sure this combination will be a great combo, I'm looking more at reliability, but want to give people a bit of a run for their money when I do
cruises through the hills.
And vwo60, I can always upgrade the carbs when needed, when I can do it.
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cam070
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 07:46 PM |
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If you're going to do the bottom end (maybe better described as the centre with a boxer motor), I think the top end is certainly worth doing. Have a
read of this:
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm
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cam070
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 07:51 PM |
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Btw what is the approximate weight if a head with valves etc. Just wondering if I can get some and bring them back next time I'm in the US. Gotta
love the baggage limits going going to and from the US, 2 bags 50 lb each. Hard to take that much for a week trip.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 08:12 PM |
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Thanks Cam, I will take a look at it when I get a better chance to read everything.
Now, off to drive Zelda.
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Ldog
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 08:48 PM |
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Ive got a c35 in my 1600 its good for that i like it but maybe a bit to tame for a 1915 just my experience
I am running a c95 in my 1915 but depends what you want to do with it!!!!!!
1915,c95,44's,44x37.5,NA, DuBwAy
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 08:51 PM |
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I just want a daily that when I put my foot down, will scare a commodore.
C95 is a bit much for me...
Well, for my needs anyway
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cnfabo
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 posted on February 24th, 2012 at 10:33 PM |
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i think you should ring stan pobjoy for one of his base 1916cc's...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 10:47 PM |
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cnfabo,
Any idea how much that is going to cost me though?
I might contact Rod Penrose and see how much he is looking at selling one for...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 24th, 2012 at 11:02 PM |
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Emailed Stan Pobjoy.
Contacted him about the BASE 1916cc that he has built countless times over. I didn't know Craig Torrens was running his WORKS 1916cc engine in his
1976?
(Yes, I read the about me section of his website).
I might even call him some time tomorrow. I wonder if he'd prefer to call or email to discuss.
Any ball park figures on the cost of the BASE one?
Maybe Mr. Craig Torrens could give me an idea of the difference in cost between the BASE and WORKS and as to whether or not I should save and just get
the WORKS one?
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Smiley
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 06:18 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Emailed Stan Pobjoy.
Contacted him about the BASE 1916cc that he has built countless times over. I didn't know Craig Torrens was running his WORKS 1916cc engine in his
1976?
(Yes, I read the about me section of his website).
I might even call him some time tomorrow. I wonder if he'd prefer to call or email to discuss.
Any ball park figures on the cost of the BASE one?
Maybe Mr. Craig Torrens could give me an idea of the difference in cost between the BASE and WORKS and as to whether or not I should save and just get
the WORKS one?
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The only issue with the works engine is that you're getting into the too much power/not enough experience territory again. No point spending 10+
grand on an engine just to kill yourself with.
I think that your above list is basically want you want. The larger capacity will give you more torque which is going to give you a lot more
drivability. And the mildish cam will give you enough poke to keep you happy. Make sure that you get all the engine components balanced as this will
help it run smoother and improve your long term reliability.
I can recommend Rod Penrose cause he built my engine, but people like Stan Pobjoy, Wayne Penrose and Matt Berry have just as good a reputation with
their engines.
Once you have a neat little engine with decent power to scoot around with, then you can drive you car and get a good feel for it, upgrade the
suspension, brakes, steering, etc. In the meantime you can save your money for a larger engine or (puke) Subie conversion.
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 09:45 AM |
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Smiley,
I think you're right once again!
See, this is what I love about this community, they actually get me to pull my head in and stop dreaming and look at it in a way that I should have
looked at it from the beginning.
I will get the required parts for the overhaul on the engine and then see who I can get to do the machining of the heads and what not. I might just
contact Peter DeBiasi and explain to him exactly what I want and then he can just do it... I don't think I will have the time nor skills to crack the
engine case open and all that crap.
I am pretty sure that with the above list and what not, it should be a cheap exercise, or am I completely wrong?
Machining would probably cost around $500 - $650 I reckon and then whatever labour costs Peter puts down in front of my eyes. Then there's just the
ancillaries that need to be purchased (mainly just tinware which is cheap) and then I reckon it'll be done...
Now I'm excited. Time to put an order in on http://vwparts.net
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Joel
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 11:50 AM |
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A C35 should be plenty of cam for that setup, you don't wanna go too agressive with the cam if you're gonna be running single throat carbs like Kads
for a while cos it will be cranky down low.
I've got a tighe cam in my 1776 that's pretty close to an engle 110 and with my twinthroat weber 40s it idles as smooth as a 36horser but same setup
but with the Kads, type3 carbs and the blower idled like an angry top fueler.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 11:55 AM |
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Hmm; Joel, I've decided on going with the BASE 1916cc engine that Stan Pobjoy enjoys building
I think it is more appropriate for the fact that I'll have the dual kads on my 1600 now, and then when the engine comes from Stan, I can then just
sell the 1600 as a complete setup. I might even hang on to the 1600 and just store it for a rainy day when I feel like servicing the 1916 or
something.
Like I said, I think a Pobjoy setup is more appropriate for what I want/need and I think it'll be the wiser choice in the long run. As we all know, I
haven't had the best of luck with Zelda 
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Gracey
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 12:27 PM |
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Good choice going with the Pobjoy engine, I can personally vouch for the quality of workmanship he provides.
Also, I hope you're going with the 37/68 Pobjoy/Tighe cam as opposed to a Scat C35, I've used both in similar engines and the 37/68 is a much better
cam overall.
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waveman1500
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 12:28 PM |
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I'd agree with the idea of holding on to your old 1600. You never know when you may need it!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 01:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Gracey
Good choice going with the Pobjoy engine, I can personally vouch for the quality of workmanship he provides.
Also, I hope you're going with the 37/68 Pobjoy/Tighe cam as opposed to a Scat C35, I've used both in similar engines and the 37/68 is a much better
cam overall.
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Yeah, I'm going to give him a call if he asks me to, sent him an email and am looking forward to hearing back from him...
I'll be going with whatever he recommends for the BASE 1916cc engine that he builds. I doubt he'd actually let my purchase the WORKS one as that is
pretty, well, a bit more powerful...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 01:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by waveman1500
I'd agree with the idea of holding on to your old 1600. You never know when you may need it!
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Yes sir!
That is exactly my thinking, hence why I'll just throw it in the garage for a rainy day.
Although, my current case just did something weird. Major wobbles (I'm pretty sure it is the engine mounts on my gearbox) but it sounded like the
engine was still trying to run after I turned Zelda off...
Once I get the 40 Kadrons, I'll tune them myself and then drain the oil from the engine, replace all the oil (what else is needed to do this?) and
then give her a nice boot around the block.
Thanks guys!
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Joel
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 02:05 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Yeah, I'm going to give him a call
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Allow minimum 1 hour and have a coffee close by
| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Although, my current case just did something weird. Major wobbles (I'm pretty sure it is the engine mounts on my gearbox) but it sounded like the
engine was still trying to run after I turned Zelda off...
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That's just pre-ignitioning, either jetting or timing is off or you got the idle speed to high.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 25th, 2012 at 02:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Allow minimum 1 hour and have a coffee close by
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Ahaha trust me, I will. I expect it to be a great conversation and a very informative one at that.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
That's just pre-ignitioning, either jetting or timing is off or you got the idle speed to high.
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I'm going to say idle speed is way too high. I know that for a fact that it is way to high... Hence the Kadrons will have the correct idle speed.
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