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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 02:05 PM
driving lights


hey guys ive picked up a set of really cool NOS hella sealed beam driving lights for my 1969 1500 bug
i was just wondering before i tackle the wiring whats the best way to wire them upto the high beam switch ? there seems to be some empty posts on my light switch aswell maybe these are for extra lights?
thanks alot
mike




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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 03:26 PM



You can use the wire that goes to the high beam light in your speedo through a switch and then to a relay, i run a fused wire of suitable size from your battery to the relay and onto the lights.
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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 03:58 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 69bug
hey guys ive picked up a set of really cool NOS hella sealed beam driving lights for my 1969 1500 bug
i was just wondering before i tackle the wiring whats the best way to wire them upto the high beam switch ? there seems to be some empty posts on my light switch aswell maybe these are for extra lights?
thanks alot
mike


Not sure on the light switch without checking the circuit diagram..
Best to connect a wire from the high beam fuse or high beam wire connection... to a switch ... from the switch to a relay...
then a connection to main power to the relay and then to the driving lamps...

so, You can switch the driving lights off...
the switch is no longer a requirement for NSW cars

LEE




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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 04:03 PM



Thanks for the advice?
Is there a diagram any one can share as to where exactly what goes?




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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 05:57 PM



I wired mine by branching off the headlight high beams wire. Probably not ideal as it loads the system more, but after almost 12 months, it hasn't caused a problem so you could say it was satisfactory and safe. The particular ones i got i didn't think they were all that particular of an excessive wattage load to burn out wires etc.

The extra driving lights turn on with hi beam, and thus also turn off with no override switch. So they are always on with high beam, which according to Mr. Policeman whom defected my ricer for having them on all the time (2 tiny little lamps in the bottom of the bumper) they should only come on with high beam if they are driving lights.

VW beetle wiring diagrams: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php/ 
Select the appropriate one for your 69' type 1. :) volla!




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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 06:01 PM



Here ya go.

In a bug the trigger wire is the white highbeam wire at the fusebox

http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-misc-picture20636-aux-lamps-simple-drawing.jpg
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posted on July 2nd, 2012 at 07:25 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
I wired mine by branching off the headlight high beams wire. Probably not ideal as it loads the system more, but after almost 12 months, it hasn't caused a problem so you could say it was satisfactory and safe. The particular ones i got i didn't think they were all that particular of an excessive wattage load to burn out wires etc.

The extra driving lights turn on with hi beam, and thus also turn off with no override switch. So they are always on with high beam, which according to Mr. Policeman whom defected my ricer for having them on all the time (2 tiny little lamps in the bottom of the bumper) they should only come on with high beam if they are driving lights.

VW beetle wiring diagrams: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php/ 
Select the appropriate one for your 69' type 1. :) volla!


Hi Chris
Yes, it used to be law in NSW to have a switch on driving lamps to be able to turn them off...
this is now NOT the case...
but I did get defected last time I went to get My beetle checked for rego as My Yellow fog lamps weren't connected up... at the time..

they have to be able to be turned on & off... lol

so, lights under the bumper are now classed as fog lamps...
regardless of color... lol

I would also rewire Your driving lights Chris...
You are grossly overloading those fuses... and wires..

I have 3 x 6mm wires going from the battery to the back of the dash... also from alternator to the battery...

and use relays for everything...
they use very little power and are excellent electrical switches

and be be placed anywhere You have a good source of power... to power the lights...

the wire to actually turn the relay on can be one of the headlamp wires as relays use very little power..

so long as the Main power to the relay and driving lamps comes from a good source...
I recommend wires going to the battery...

I also have a relay located above My starter motor to give it a good strong current direct from the battery [thru the relay]

LEE

I believe that a real fog lamp is yellow
Same as all french cars headlamps....




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posted on July 3rd, 2012 at 10:25 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Here ya go.

In a bug the trigger wire is the white highbeam wire at the fusebox

http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-misc-picture20636-aux-lamps-simple-drawing.jpg



I don't get why it say in this pic to put the fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible?

please "x" plane ?




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posted on July 3rd, 2012 at 10:39 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by vlad01
Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Here ya go.

In a bug the trigger wire is the white highbeam wire at the fusebox

http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-misc-picture20636-aux-lamps-simple-drawing.jpg



I don't get why it say in this pic to put the fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible?

please "x" plane ?

The closer the fuse is to the battery, the less 'un-fused' cable to short out.




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posted on July 3rd, 2012 at 11:37 AM



guess thats makes sense. never really thought of that.


wonder why VW never did it?




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posted on July 3rd, 2012 at 12:37 PM



The diagram is only talking about the feed to the spotties but a fuse on the main battery feed would have been a good idea, would have saved a few fires that's for sure.

My 74 Celica had a factory fusible link on the battery so the technology was around back then.

I use one of those big inline breakers in mine,
saves having to disconnect the battery too just push the test button
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posted on July 3rd, 2012 at 07:18 PM



its not really technology as such but more common sense, but its something that can be over looked just like I did.



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posted on July 3rd, 2012 at 08:00 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
The diagram is only talking about the feed to the spotties but a fuse on the main battery feed would have been a good idea, would have saved a few fires that's for sure.

My 74 Celica had a factory fusible link on the battery so the technology was around back then.

I use one of those big inline breakers in mine,
saves having to disconnect the battery too just push the test button


Are fuseable links still used in japanese cars??

yes, in an accident fuses close to the battery is a good idea..
or circuit breakers....

Lee

I remember minis had an electric fuel pump next to the fuel tank right at the back and in a bad acciident, where the fuel line to the carby was ripped off...
the fuel pump would keep pumping fuel onto the hot engine and fire....
lee




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posted on July 4th, 2012 at 09:48 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
The diagram is only talking about the feed to the spotties but a fuse on the main battery feed would have been a good idea, would have saved a few fires that's for sure.

My 74 Celica had a factory fusible link on the battery so the technology was around back then.

I use one of those big inline breakers in mine,
saves having to disconnect the battery too just push the test button


Are fuseable links still used in japanese cars??

yes, in an accident fuses close to the battery is a good idea..
or circuit breakers....

Lee

I remember minis had an electric fuel pump next to the fuel tank right at the back and in a bad acciident, where the fuel line to the carby was ripped off...
the fuel pump would keep pumping fuel onto the hot engine and fire....
lee


Not anymore, modern cars now just have Main fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

My Laser and Subaru Liberty donor both have those big square 100amp fuses with the clear tops in the main fusebox although something I owned did have a reseting circuit breaker instead.


The old Leyland and Morris Minis had lots of little problems like that, another good one was that big protruding fuel cap on the rear corners used to get knocked off in accidents then drip fuel all over the smashed shorting out brake light bulbs directly below it.
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posted on July 4th, 2012 at 10:47 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
The diagram is only talking about the feed to the spotties but a fuse on the main battery feed would have been a good idea, would have saved a few fires that's for sure.

My 74 Celica had a factory fusible link on the battery so the technology was around back then.

I use one of those big inline breakers in mine,
saves having to disconnect the battery too just push the test button


Are fuseable links still used in japanese cars??

yes, in an accident fuses close to the battery is a good idea..
or circuit breakers....

Lee

I remember minis had an electric fuel pump next to the fuel tank right at the back and in a bad acciident, where the fuel line to the carby was ripped off...
the fuel pump would keep pumping fuel onto the hot engine and fire....
lee


Not anymore, modern cars now just have Main fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

My Laser and Subaru Liberty donor both have those big square 100amp fuses with the clear tops in the main fusebox although something I owned did have a reseting circuit breaker instead.


The old Leyland and Morris Minis had lots of little problems like that, another good one was that big protruding fuel cap on the rear corners used to get knocked off in accidents then drip fuel all over the smashed shorting out brake light bulbs directly below it.


yeah thats what my car has too, but stupidly it didn't have one on the alternator and that shorted on the fuel rail and burnt a hole in it and caught the loom to the battery on fire and killed the alternator :lol: :grind:

Lesson to be learned, check the the alternator B+ terminal has the rubber cap its suppose to have when tilting the alternator out to gain access for other stuff or disconnect the battery! Something I didn't want to do coz I loss all the settings on the computerized stuff in the car. I lost all the setting anyway and 300 bucks in repairs :crazy:




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posted on July 13th, 2012 at 01:46 PM



ok joel ive pretty much followed the wiring diagram supplied but no luck yet
i understood all of it except the brown wire
do i just pull the white wire with no stripe off the head light switch at the fuse end and attach to the switch




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posted on July 13th, 2012 at 03:16 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
I wired mine by branching off the headlight high beams wire. Probably not ideal as it loads the system more, but after almost 12 months, it hasn't caused a problem so you could say it was satisfactory and safe. The particular ones i got i didn't think they were all that particular of an excessive wattage load to burn out wires etc.

The extra driving lights turn on with hi beam, and thus also turn off with no override switch. So they are always on with high beam, which according to Mr. Policeman whom defected my ricer for having them on all the time (2 tiny little lamps in the bottom of the bumper) they should only come on with high beam if they are driving lights.

VW beetle wiring diagrams: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php/ 
Select the appropriate one for your 69' type 1. :) volla!


Hi Chris
Yes, it used to be law in NSW to have a switch on driving lamps to be able to turn them off...
this is now NOT the case...
but I did get defected last time I went to get My beetle checked for rego as My Yellow fog lamps weren't connected up... at the time..

they have to be able to be turned on & off... lol

so, lights under the bumper are now classed as fog lamps...
regardless of color... lol

I would also rewire Your driving lights Chris...
You are grossly overloading those fuses... and wires..

I have 3 x 6mm wires going from the battery to the back of the dash... also from alternator to the battery...

and use relays for everything...
they use very little power and are excellent electrical switches

and be be placed anywhere You have a good source of power... to power the lights...

the wire to actually turn the relay on can be one of the headlamp wires as relays use very little power..

so long as the Main power to the relay and driving lamps comes from a good source...
I recommend wires going to the battery...

I also have a relay located above My starter motor to give it a good strong current direct from the battery [thru the relay]

LEE

I believe that a real fog lamp is yellow
Same as all french cars headlamps....

another reason we live in QLD :D




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posted on July 14th, 2012 at 12:10 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 69bug
ok joel ive pretty much followed the wiring diagram supplied but no luck yet
i understood all of it except the brown wire
do i just pull the white wire with no stripe off the head light switch at the fuse end and attach to the switch


The brown wire just needs to piggy back off anywhere that is live on highbeam.

Easiest place to get that is on the fusebox at one of the high beam fuse connectors.

You'll see theres 2 fuses with yellow wires which is your low beam then next that will be 2 fuses with white wires which is high beam and also a little blue wire piggy backing off one which goes to the speedo highbeam light.

A female piggy back connector like one of these is the quickest and easist way to connect it up

http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/product_images/l/199/Pig_back-red__43192_thumb.jpg
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posted on July 15th, 2012 at 05:41 PM



Quote:
yeah thats what my car has too, but stupidly it didn't have one on the alternator and that shorted on the fuel rail and burnt a hole in it and caught the loom to the battery on fire and killed the alternator :lol: :grind:

Lesson to be learned, check the the alternator B+ terminal has the rubber cap its suppose to have when tilting the alternator out to gain access for other stuff or disconnect the battery! Something I didn't want to do coz I loss all the settings on the computerized stuff in the car. I lost all the setting anyway and 300 bucks in repairs :crazy:


Yes, I always undo the battery terminal... lol

even having the wire off that terminal it has all the current of the battery in it... YIKES..


But do any cars have a circuit breaker or fuse on the alternator output???
something I've never thought about...
am going to put circuit breakers next to the battery for wires going to the dash...

Lee





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posted on July 15th, 2012 at 10:09 PM



Lee, I run one of those big waterproof 100amp resetable cirucuit breakers designed for dual battery setups on my battery feed to the front.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/products/84627_lg.jpg

A small minor short wouldnt trip it but a bigger one enough to start a fire certainly would and because I'm a lazy shit I just press the test button instead of d/c the battery.

I'm pretty sure my F**d has one of those big square 100amp fuses with the clear lids for the alternator in the engine bay fusebox.


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