[ Total Views: 1627 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 97955 ] |
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RATWGN
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 05:12 PM |
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My 75 superbug.
Hey guys.
Brand new here.
This is my ride ive just purchased.
Been in the family for years and got it for a steal with Reg/rwc. couldnt say no.
Still unsure about details of model etc.
There is a history this car that im still trying to find out if anyone knows of some sites/people to talk to about finding the true history out of it
would be awesome!
Still fresh to the aircooled scene so any help identifying what model it is would be awesome help for me when it comes to buying parts for it.
As you can see buy the pics. paint is rough and so are the bumpers. dash is rather shotty to thank to a previous owner installing a headunit in the
worst way possible and there is a decent crack in it right next to the speedo hump.
Seats are 99% perfect. just the piping has been broken.
all it needs is a clutch mechanicly thanks to a full engine overhaul last year.
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Bizarre
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 05:23 PM |
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G'day and welcome
I have a 75L as well - they are the pick of supers, as they are rack and pinion steering rather than steering box
Post the VIN number. You will find it under the rear seat near the inspection plate to the gear box coupling. That will confirm what year it is.
There are several things there that twell me it is a 1975 model - indicators in the bumper, later rear apron, condenser / breather set up for the fuel
system
Looks pretty good rust wise.
Hope to see more of you and your car
Futue te ipsum!!!
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RATWGN
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 06:32 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
G'day and welcome
I have a 75L as well - they are the pick of supers, as they are rack and pinion steering rather than steering box
Post the VIN number. You will find it under the rear seat near the inspection plate to the gear box coupling. That will confirm what year it is.
There are several things there that twell me it is a 1975 model - indicators in the bumper, later rear apron, condenser / breather set up for the fuel
system
Looks pretty good rust wise.
Hope to see more of you and your car
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cheers for that mate! will post up vin soon.
rego sticker is 75.
but im very happy with the pick up. not a drop of rust in the thing.
just very bad peeling clear.
just needs a few cosmetic fixes.
might leave paint as is casue that doesnt bother me.
i own another rat rodded car. lol.
how do i go about lowering the front and rear on these?
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helbus
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 07:07 PM |
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Look in the Tech mods and Frequently asked questions section
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=48798
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TorxKiwi
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 07:30 PM |
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Lovin' the L Bug and good to see another one registered in VIC, where abouts are you?
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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RATWGN
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 08:03 PM |
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cheers for that but i was ideally looking to see if there was a complete replacement as im not a welder dont want to be cutting and attempting to shut
when i am no where near qualified enough to be attempting to hold a car up with my welding skills.
Quote: | Originally
posted by TorxKiwi
Lovin' the L Bug and good to see another one registered in VIC, where abouts are you?
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cheers mate. im from seymour north of melb.
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Joel
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 08:23 PM |
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Ah don't see many in Saluki brown, was about one of the only metallic colours Aussie bugs came in, was only 75 and 76 from memory.
You won't be able to lower much with those wheels, they have too much negative offset for Superbugs and will rub on the guards.
They were made more for standard bugs and type 3s
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RATWGN
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 09:12 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Ah don't see many in Saluki brown, was about one of the only metallic colours Aussie bugs came in, was only 75 and 76 from memory.
You won't be able to lower much with those wheels, they have too much negative offset for Superbugs and will rub on the guards.
They were made more for standard bugs and type 3s
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yes this is my problem. i am looking for some new wheels for it. only problem is i dont want to change stud patterns or anything serious at this point
as this is going to be more of a daily car so not get heaps of special treatment.
Just looking around for now for exhaust, wheels, and lower it. other then that it will remain as is.
what is the pcd for the 4 stud beetle as well as decent wheel and offset?
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Bizarre
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posted on July 22nd, 2012 at 09:32 PM |
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130 PCD and stock wheel is 41 ET
use this programme to have a play
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
Not many wheels out there.
Most beetle mags are 5.5" or 6" and 15 or 20ET and that will make them stick out
If you just want a good looking car I would get stock rims refurbished and lowered
Then take your time to get your head around what you want to do
Futue te ipsum!!!
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RATWGN
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:05 PM |
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well guys did a bit of work today. got the beetle running took it round the block, however its making a high pitched "squel" and shudder through the
clutch pedal? i assume its just the clutch on its last legs because it does have a very high engage point. unless this is normal?
also looking around for cluthes there seem to be quiet a few different type for different motors?
i have the engine number and attached photo so if anyone can help me identify the motor for me that would be great.
also.
what the hell do these 2 buttons next to the hazzard switch do? they both have a 2 stage click and one actually lights up when clicked all the way
down?
PS: never mind the terrible headunit installation that was done by the previous owner
i also am looking for a set of the standard steel wheels to suit my 4 stud 4x130 if anyone can help me out?
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RATWGN
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:09 PM |
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also for anyone wondering what my user name is MEANT to be. its meant to be RATWGN and attached is a photo of why.
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Joel
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:12 PM |
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Everything in your engine bay looks pretty original
1600 twin port, you'll need a 200mm clutch without the T/O bearing colar.
Those switches aren;t original, they are foglight switches from Euro models and could be hooked to anything or nothing.
there is normally just the hazard switch and the other 3 are blanks.
Let me know if you want to part with one of them.
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RATWGN
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:27 PM |
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i never new they had fog light options on euro models.
mine are obviously hooked up to nothing although one has power to it.
simple as unclipping the one i choose and popping a blank back in?
im a less is more guy. so if it does nothing i might as well take it out both also have the same pictures etched into them.
Also, i was wanting to ask if anyone could tell me where to find out the origins of my beetle? i know its an original 3 owner car. still original
motor all matching numbers.
but there is a story with my beetle is that his is the original trade show/motor show car? still unsure as to how true this story is but i want to
speak to someone who can giveme contact with VW australia etc.
If anyone can help i have the vin on hand.
nevermind the P plates. i am not a p plater the previous owners daughter is. potentially why i need a new clutch? :p
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Bizarre
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:36 PM |
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if you want a scanned copy of the original glove box owners manual - PM me your email and I can send you a copy
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:42 PM |
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As for struts have a look here at what you can get
http://toplineparts.com/products/products.htm
these are what I have from V Force
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Futue te ipsum!!!
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RATWGN
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:58 PM |
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do i really need to go for a full coilover or can i just get a lowered strut such as this?
https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=16934
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Joel
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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 09:59 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by RAWTGN
i never new they had fog light options on euro models.
mine are obviously hooked up to nothing although one has power to it.
simple as unclipping the one i choose and popping a blank back in?
im a less is more guy. so if it does nothing i might as well take it out both also have the same pictures etched into them.
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It was law in some of the regions that got bad fog, they had yellow front ones and red rear, thats why it's a 2 stage switch.
They just unclip from the back, I'll have a blanks for you in the shed.
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RATWGN
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 05:42 PM |
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well guys little update.
got some new running boards. as one of mine was missing and the other was completely rotted. They are only cheapo ones, but fit perfect and look the
part so it doesnt bother me.
also for a steal i got a full set of standard wheels and hub caps with very roadworthy tires. just going to paint them a and thats it. maybe some
white walls further down the track.
all i need to get now is the matching wheel nuts as the person i brought them off had lost his. but i fitted one of the wheels up today with my spares
wheel nuts for shits n giggles.
all i could see was how much i need to lower the damn thing
i also now have a full set off the mags pictures.
cheviot 14x6 to fit 4 stud 80-85% tread maxxis tires and the wheel nuts to match if anyone is interested.
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69bug
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 06:38 PM |
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Painted silver and with trim rings the stocks look much nicer
1969 1500
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RATWGN
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 06:53 PM |
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100% agree.
im thinking either silver or black. not sure yet.
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