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 bluebaja
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| posted on July 25th, 2012 at 10:07 AM |
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Rust preventative?
Hi
Interested in knowing what people have used as a rust preventative inside the Beetle central chassis tunnel.
I have just done a rust repair on the front "napolean hat' area and looking up inside the tunnel there is surface rust I wish to stop from
progressing.
I am thinking of drilling a few access holes (to be rubber bunged) to allow me to spray/pour in a rust preventative in critical areas.
The thing is this is going to be a baja so water will be getting in at some stage. I have used fisholene before but I am conserned if water gets in
it will get "under" it.
Any ideas??
Thanks
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toey1984
A.k.a.: nathan kirkman
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| posted on July 25th, 2012 at 10:26 AM |
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Consider using PENETROL.
It penetrates rust spots and also is a conditioner.
Drys hard and glossy (apparently)
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php
Nathan
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 12:49 AM |
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You can buy Waxoyl from RS Components. Originally made in Swizterland or Sweden, something like that. Anyway, it is a wax impregnated with a rust
conditioner and inhibitor. It remains in a soft waxy substrate and can self heal from small scratches. There are others like Bilt Hamber but the guy
who sells it is ripping everyone off.
There's Tens----something or other. Can't remember it's name properly.
Otherwise I have looked online quite exhaustively and not found all that much else 
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 04:58 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bluebaja
Hi
Interested in knowing what people have used as a rust preventative inside the Beetle central chassis tunnel.
I have just done a rust repair on the front "napolean hat' area and looking up inside the tunnel there is surface rust I wish to stop from
progressing.
I am thinking of drilling a few access holes (to be rubber bunged) to allow me to spray/pour in a rust preventative in critical areas.
The thing is this is going to be a baja so water will be getting in at some stage. I have used fisholene before but I am conserned if water gets in
it will get "under" it.
Any ideas??
Thanks
|
Hi
I have been using fish oil since the late 60s to stop rust that is already there plus seals the surface so no new rust can start
it eventually dries [in the winter] much quicker in summer..
you can pour it in the doors and catch any excess and reuse...
it dries clear and doesn't smell like it used to... lol
its now deodorised.. killrust is the best brand.. I always brush or spray it with at least two coats - let dry in between..
it will spread over rusted surfaces [like oil flows] and stop any air getting to the old rust... so it just stops it...
don't use on wet metal must be dry..
Lee probably the cheapest on the market too...
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Bob down
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 07:04 AM |
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does fish oil have any negative affects on paintwork that is in good nick?
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 07:36 AM |
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Deodorised fish oil still smells fishy, & deodorised lanolin oil still smells like sheep  but tis what i have used.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 05:45 PM |
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neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is
still waxy.
Pays for what you gets 
Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet
cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too 
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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Aussie
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 07:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is
still waxy.
Pays for what you gets
Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet
cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too
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How much is the Waxoyl? Went to RS website but no price shown??
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on July 26th, 2012 at 11:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie
| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is
still waxy.
Pays for what you gets
Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet
cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too
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How much is the Waxoyl? Went to RS website but no price shown??
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Used to be $80 for a 5l can. You have to fone for the pump action spary kit. $23 for a 400ml aerosol
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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AndrewB
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| posted on July 27th, 2012 at 01:42 AM |
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dont go near killrust with any paints where thinners is involved. dont ask.... 
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on July 27th, 2012 at 07:41 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by AndrewB
dont go near killrust with any paints where thinners is involved. dont ask....
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So you need to use a isolator before priming? Not surprised as it didn't like having zinc primer sprayed on it. creased and bubbled nicely
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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vlad01
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| posted on August 7th, 2012 at 04:23 PM |
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Eastwood cavity wax and similar brands are great. Kill rust by wattle, POR15 epoxy, master series 2 pak epoxy, KBS.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on August 7th, 2012 at 04:34 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is
still waxy.
Pays for what you gets
Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and
just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too
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not if its preped properly. It likes bare acid etched metal such as using POR15 metal ready before hand.
we have stuff at home thats hasn't rusted yet after 30 years plus in the weather with kill rust. We have a tin water tank that was on wood sleeper
only an " above the ground and for the last 15 years was sunk in the dirt, drained the water last year ans tipped the tank over to find kill rust my
dad painted on bottom looking like new with less than a few match head sized flakes coming off in 1 or 2 small areas 
I found kill rust actually works way better without primer, must be bare chemically etched metal (phosphoric acid) Sticks like dog crap.
though I do agree that por15 and kbs work better but when kill rust is done right the kill rust is not that far behind.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on August 7th, 2012 at 04:42 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bob down
does fish oil have any negative affects on paintwork that is in good nick?
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not really. only negative effect is it doesn't last long enough in normal conditions. I find the fishoil breaks down in a few years and virtually
disappears and rust comes back better than ever
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on August 7th, 2012 at 10:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is
still waxy.
Pays for what you gets
Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and
just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too
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not if its preped properly. It likes bare acid etched metal such as using POR15 metal ready before hand.
we have stuff at home thats hasn't rusted yet after 30 years plus in the weather with kill rust. We have a tin water tank that was on wood sleeper
only an " above the ground and for the last 15 years was sunk in the dirt, drained the water last year ans tipped the tank over to find kill rust my
dad painted on bottom looking like new with less than a few match head sized flakes coming off in 1 or 2 small areas
I found kill rust actually works way better without primer, must be bare chemically etched metal (phosphoric acid) Sticks like dog crap.
though I do agree that por15 and kbs work better but when kill rust is done right the kill rust is not that far behind.
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Killrust is OK, as I said, but even sanding the metal with 120 wet n dry I've found it don't adhere all that well. etching the metal makes anything
stick well
Still I'm happy to use the stuff on interior areas but prefer KBS for outside areas 
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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