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 Blue65
A.k.a.: Yau
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 01:07 AM |
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Stalling in the morning
Hi. My VW thens to stall as I slow down to take a corner or brake - this only happens in the first 5 - 10 minutes of driving, afterwards its OK.
Its always been like this - got several VW mechanics to check it out and they say not much can be done. One of them fitted an electrical warming kit
to the carbie but can't remember whether that worked well.
Any solutions anyone
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Bob down
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 05:38 AM |
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mine does the same until it warms up properly, i thought this was normal with an original carb setups, but i could be wrong.
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tar76
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 07:29 AM |
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Do you let it warm up before driving or do you just jump in and go?
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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annosL
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 11:43 AM |
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I had this with my '60 beetle, then fitted the pipe to original air cleaner from the hot air outlet at the back of the motor(as original) so the air
cleaner gets warm air a lot quicker as the weighted flap closes at low revs, this solved the stalling and flat spot as well
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sander288
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 11:46 AM |
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I'd be looking at the auto-choke on the carb (if its standard) and also check that the pre-heat pipes are connected and working.
Something else that will help is having the proper thermostat and flaps; you get a quick warm-up
With all the above said I lived through several new england winters with my bug and never had any of the above and if you do give it 10min then
she'll be sweet
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 12:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tar76
Do you let it warm up before driving or do you just jump in and go?
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The idea of the automatic choke which was a big selling point of beetles in the 60s
You get in push the accelerator down once
[to bring the automatic choke into action]
then start the engine and Drive off...
Don't warm up the engine by idling..
the automatic chokes do need some adjusting between winter and summer etc.
You loosen the automatic choke by the 3 screws holding it in place.. just loosen the 3 screws and turn the choke unit
anticlockwise for More choke...
clockwise for less choke..
If You take the air cleaner off You can see the choke flap close over [more choke - more strangler in the UK] lol
just adjust it.. engine cold... and see how the engine starts..
the wire to the automatic choke heats the choke up and once it gets to the correct temperature the choke is completely OFF...
also check the stepped piece that adjusts how much throttle
is applied when the choke is cold...
adjustment screw also... Best not to have your engine revving too fast when You first start it...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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hellbugged
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 01:34 PM |
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Manifold heat risers blocked.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 04:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Manifold heat risers blocked.
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Yes, blocked heat risers can also affect Your car when cold in cold weather..
also. if the auto choke heats up and turns off as its supposed to
then No Heat Risers [heated inlet manifold] this can affect Your car... if its Really Cold [under 5C] then Your engine can stop and stay stopped
until the ice melts.. etc
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 05:55 PM |
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I tend to get this too! when cold, but also moreso when driving down hill while cold :S!
I try to down shift and crawling to an intersection to prevent, and if you got a stop, blip the throttle. Although for me it doesn't always work
haha.
Full ignition and carby tune up wouldn't go astray  But age and
wear creating vacuum pressure losses (eg: carb shafts wearing the bores they sit in etc) in theory should have some minor detriment to the auto choke,
which tries to induce greater vacuum pressure and thus 'enrich' the air fuel mixture to keep the dakka happy in the morning. But then loose that
vacuum pressure through sucking in air through those worn bores etc.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 08:34 PM |
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You need to keep those linkages and shafts etc well oiled
they were done at every oil change back in the 60s & maybe 70s... as per the service handbook etc
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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rcarnold1957
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| posted on September 1st, 2012 at 12:16 PM |
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Sorry to butt in, I've had problems with blocked heat risers too. I ended up having to cut, clean and reweld the pipe. Has anyone got an alternative
method of cleaning the carbon out?
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Blue65
A.k.a.: Yau
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| posted on September 3rd, 2012 at 04:14 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
You need to keep those linkages and shafts etc well oiled
they were done at every oil change back in the 60s & maybe 70s... as per the service handbook etc
Lee
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What linkages and shafts are you referring to please?
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Owner of a 1964 VW Beetle, 1641cc engine, etc..
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 3rd, 2012 at 05:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by rcarnold1957
Sorry to butt in, I've had problems with blocked heat risers too. I ended up having to cut, clean and reweld the pipe. Has anyone got an alternative
method of cleaning the carbon out?
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I replaced Mine as they had been cleaned out and welded up twice.. then they rusted thru all along the rear side...
I believe once they start to rust... they keep on rusting..
I sprayed My replacement with heat proof paint inside and out the other side.. whether that will help??
Maybe a grease nipple would help and a bit of grease now & then... I read that years ago for an exhaust system..
to help stop the muffler rusting out..
I suppose a stainless steel sleeve or pipe inside it.. cut & shut
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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rcarnold1957
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| posted on September 3rd, 2012 at 07:58 PM |
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Thanks Lee, I like the idea of a grease nipple, should stop the carbon bonding to the surface. Thanks for your help.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 7th, 2012 at 04:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Blue65
| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
You need to keep those linkages and shafts etc well oiled
they were done at every oil change back in the 60s & maybe 70s... as per the service handbook etc
Lee
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What linkages and shafts are you referring to please?
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Hi
You need to oil [one drop will do] on every moving part on the carburetor..
mainly the shafts that stick out on both sides.
they need lubricatiing with oil to help stop them wearing out
I oil mine every month or so, and wipe any excess off
as its hard to get just one drop with an oil can.. lol
the spring tension is a major wearing cause on the shaft
I hope that helps..
[old beetles had a grease nipple on the clutch/brake pedals too] so a drop of oil there is good but harder to get to
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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