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 Joel
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| posted on September 2nd, 2014 at 09:45 AM |
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I would disconnect the battery for a couple of days so it wipes the codes so you know you are starting with a clean slate and not reading old
codes.
I had a lot of issues with my knock sensor too.
It was old and cracked as they do but still seemed to work ok, it was just every so often throwing the code for a few seconds, just enough to log it
in the memory.
The ECU just takes abnormal voltage as being an error code.
When I replaced it I had permanant check engine light and knock sensor code plus I could feel it was holding the ignition timing back a bit.
It was the plug on the new one wasnt as well made and when I clicked them together the male terminal bent and totally missed so the new one wasnt even
connected.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 2nd, 2014 at 07:30 PM |
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good news, I have cleared all codes and now just have the Knock sensor 22 code left. I have found just removing power isn't enough
there is a process to go through, very helpful
http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/HTML/05/01/01/03.html
anyway as i suspected these were old codes. i have ordered a new knock sensor. You know I replaced this knock sensor over 1 year ago and never felt
comfortable it would not click into the connector. I inspected the harness end and I don't think it was connecting. My Bad...
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 3rd, 2014 at 09:41 PM |
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Moving ahead even with a little job...
I have the engine checkllight wired up in the engine bay but plan to move it to the dash
here you can see I bought a dash cluster and mounted the check light in here , interesting the PO has already spray painted the back white. I
assume to get better gauge illumination
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 6th, 2014 at 02:37 PM |
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if you hangin in there long enough !
Over the moon with Joy
During the week the new knock sensor arrived. l plugged it in
what did I see ? the beautiful sight of a CEL "not turned on
No codes now!
Also this sensor does click into the connector. .
Now the idle sits at 700 rpm . I am not 100% happy. I have a lot of smoke almost black and rich .
Not sure if I have a hole in my exhaust or this is just the aftermath of using a can of SA 459
But this makes me happy today.
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Joel
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| posted on September 7th, 2014 at 10:10 PM |
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That was the problem I had with my new knock sensor, I ended up making a new connection.
When the ECU cant detect the knock sensor the safe mode retards the timing by 5 degrees so they run a bit doughy.
Have you driven it since running the cleaner?
it takes a while to burn off, mine left a nice smoke screen about half a KM down the road.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 8th, 2014 at 06:58 PM |
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No not drivable (again)
Joel
No not drivable (again) I got the steering wheel off and replacing the ignition switch
looking at the instructions below it looks scary
http://www.dolgyfre.adsl24.co.uk/spooky/barrel/barrel.html
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Bucknasty
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| posted on September 17th, 2014 at 03:17 AM |
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Ah that's not too bad, I've done it before- just follow the procedure you posted. It's a really good write up. You're so close!
I thought I'd give you an update on my build, I checked my water temp gauge bias vs. the engine management temp sensor. I found that the gauge reads
about 8-14 degrees higher than the ECU, and the bias increases as temperatures increase.
On the highway at about 70 mph my gauge reads 210 degrees but my actual engine temp is 196 degrees. This is on a 95 degree day, and my engine speed
was 4500 rpm (I am still running the stock 002 transmission and small tires). At 190 degrees on my gauge, where the needle typically hangs out when
driving around town, the ECU was reading 182.
Just an FYI on what to expect. I think re-gearing the transmission to lower the rpms at highway speeds are going to help get the temps down too, 4500
rpm is pretty high for a cruising speed.
It will be interesting to see how different our buses run since we are running different engine management.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 17th, 2014 at 07:38 PM |
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yes , so close
Bucknasty
yes I am so close, I just keep finding little jobs that need to be done. I need a special tool "brazing rod " to unpick the lock.
Interested in hearing about your engine temps , are u using some software tool to read the ECU? Do u have OBD2 or 1?
I also found out a subie engine coolant temp sender is not made to drive a VDO gauge . It was something like 40 degrees out
then I found that even a VDO sender to a VDO gauge is 10% out , that is not real comforting is it ? if the real temp is 100 , the gauge can read
anywhere from 90 to 110!!
I was thinking to get the B10scan tool going , interrogate the ECU , see the engine coolant temp and then try to set up a sender and gauge to match
this .
regards to 4500 revs at 70 mph , yes that sounds high to me but I am not there yet
what is you plan?
a) suck it and see
b) 2 litre late bay box
c) Subagears 5 speed subie!
d) bigger wheels
e) rebuild with higher 4th gear
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Joel
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| posted on September 17th, 2014 at 07:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bucknasty
I think re-gearing the transmission to lower the rpms at highway speeds are going to help get the temps down too, 4500 rpm is pretty high for a
cruising speed.
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You'll notice a improvement in fuel economy and a big drop in oil temps.
Sustained revs that high is what really brings oil temps up with no oil cooler.
I noticed in my bug before I had my trans re-geared and ran undersized back tyres when cruising at 70mph @3700rpm my oil temp crept right up to 110c
(230f) but now with my trans regeared and bigger back tyres when I cruise at 70mph its only turning 3200 and the oil temp stays at 95c (203f)
Amazing the difference 500rpm made.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 17th, 2014 at 08:32 PM |
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good point joel
Joel
yes good point about the revs
this same thing occured to me today as I was driving a mitsu pajero diesel
I think I had 100kmh at 2000 revs, no stress there !
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Bucknasty
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| posted on September 18th, 2014 at 03:17 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Bucknasty
yes I am so close, I just keep finding little jobs that need to be done. I need a special tool "brazing rod " to unpick the lock.
Interested in hearing about your engine temps , are u using some software tool to read the ECU? Do u have OBD2 or 1?
I also found out a subie engine coolant temp sender is not made to drive a VDO gauge . It was something like 40 degrees out
then I found that even a VDO sender to a VDO gauge is 10% out , that is not real comforting is it ? if the real temp is 100 , the gauge can read
anywhere from 90 to 110!!
I was thinking to get the B10scan tool going , interrogate the ECU , see the engine coolant temp and then try to set up a sender and gauge to match
this .
regards to 4500 revs at 70 mph , yes that sounds high to me but I am not there yet
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"Brazing rod" is not necessary, it's just the right size diameter and easy to bend into shape. I think I used a piece of a wire clothes hanger or
something like that to do that job. You just need a piece of rod that is stiff enough to release the lock but flexible enough to bend into shape. I
hope that helps.
My engine is using a MicroSquirt EFI module instead of the stock Subaru ECU. It is a simplified version of MegaSquirt EFI. You can tune the EFI by
using free software called tuner studio. The software is capable of "auto-tuning". You can even get fancy and install a bluetooth sender on the
ECU and read it with your phone. No tuning with the phone though.
http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio
Jeff hooked up his laptop to the MicroSquirt module to see what the ECU was reading for temps to compare to my SunPro gauge. The sender for the
SunPro is installed right next to the stock temp sender for the ECU, so the temp bias has to do with the quality of the sender and gauge. I only paid
$20 for that gauge on amazon- I guess you get what you pay for. lol The temp bias issue is not comforting but if you understand how much it is off
you can correct for it in your head. Also, Jeff set up my ECU to light up a big red light if my ECU sees the temp hit 225 deg F so I'll know to pull
over and let it cool off. Idiot proof, if you will. It has not yet lit up while driving.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
what is you plan?
a) suck it and see
b) 2 litre late bay box
c) Subagears 5 speed subie!
d) bigger wheels
e) rebuild with higher 4th gear
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My plan is to leave it as is until I have enough money to rebuild/re-gear the 091 transmission that I got a good deal on. I'm going to target the
engine vs. vehicle speed of a stock suby, so set it up for about 2650 rpm at 65 mph.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bucknasty
I think re-gearing the transmission to lower the rpms at highway speeds are going to help get the temps down too, 4500 rpm is pretty high for a
cruising speed.
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You'll notice a improvement in fuel economy and a big drop in oil temps.
Sustained revs that high is what really brings oil temps up with no oil cooler.
I noticed in my bug before I had my trans re-geared and ran undersized back tyres when cruising at 70mph @3700rpm my oil temp crept right up to 110c
(230f) but now with my trans regeared and bigger back tyres when I cruise at 70mph its only turning 3200 and the oil temp stays at 95c (203f)
Amazing the difference 500rpm made.
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Good info Joel, imagine how much of a drop in temps a 2000 rpm reduction will give me! Improved fuel economy, lower oil and coolant temps, less
noise, and FOUR useful gears! Whoooooo! (I only use 2nd thru 4th on my stock 3 rib 002 trans).
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 20th, 2014 at 11:27 AM |
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Bucknasty and Joel
whats the way with fuel filters?
do you use a clear plastic one to protect fuel pump as well as the EFI one after the fuel pump?
I was wondering if this contributes to the noise i have ?
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vlad01
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| posted on September 20th, 2014 at 07:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Bucknasty and Joel
whats the way with fuel filters?
do you use a clear plastic one to protect fuel pump as well as the EFI one after the fuel pump?
I was wondering if this contributes to the noise i have ?
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could be, you need a massive low restriction filter before the pump. a standard filter wont cut it and will cause cavitation= noise.
all modern efi pumps have a screen type large sock and the lot is submerged in fuel.
you would want i'd say at least 12mm ID hose and filter fittings whilst the filter micron be a lot more than the after pump standard EFI filter.
I've read in a lot of places the recommendation is 10 micron after pump,
anywhere from 40-100 micron before pump.
hope that is of help.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on September 20th, 2014 at 07:03 PM |
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here is a good link for more info.
http://www.injector.com/fuel_filter_selection.html
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 21st, 2014 at 06:29 PM |
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cavitation
Vlad
Thanks for the info. I bought a vss of Richard at rjes uk and
I happened to mention the issue and he said i should not be using the plastic filter after the tank. He reckons that could be the cause of the
cavitation. I should use something bigger like
100 micron Or mesh
Today I could not get it started at all. Strange since I fixed all the codes it was gradually running worse . Now it won't start today.
I guess I go back to basics check I got spark fuel etc.
I wonder if I now have a fuel blockage due to those plastic filters.
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vlad01
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| posted on September 21st, 2014 at 09:51 PM |
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lol, can't win can ya.
yeah check those filters. with todays "quality" fuels it wouldn't surprise me if they are blocked already.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 22nd, 2014 at 06:48 PM |
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My first plan of attack will be to get rid of the 2 plastic carby filters. I have order a 100 micron filter to go before the pump.
I will be stoked if it as simple as this to fix
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chellejohno
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| posted on September 25th, 2014 at 07:50 PM |
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Hey Paul,
I must apologise, regarding the noisy fuel pump. I said mine was pretty quiet, but now the engines muffled it definately does stand out, the only
saving grace is when you get out on the highway you can't hear it over the rattles and wind noise! But it's bloody annoying when you pull up at the
lights.
Cheers Johno
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vlad01
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| posted on September 26th, 2014 at 01:19 PM |
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On the fuel pump noise, I recently did a EFI conversion on a customers Torana. He i using a copy 044.
We looking at running a genuine 070? VL turbo pump now.
Stupid china 044 is so rattley and dies in the ass as soon as the voltage drops during starting POS.
So noisy I don't know how anyone could put up with that racket. Genuine 044 supposedly are louder 
Not sure why anyone would want to run 044 unless they are making 600hp
71 notchback,
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 26th, 2014 at 07:06 PM |
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that buggEJ22er
I took an annual leave day today, really wanted to get the engine going
I did it ! Not 100% sure what the exact reason was , I let you judge.
I guess I state the obvious but this project is really frustrating .I seem to take a one step forward , then 2 backwards, a few sideways then go
forward again. Then I look in the mirror slap and remind myself I am not a mechanic and did ask for this challenge, So that is what I am getting.
I am learning a lot.
So after lots of advice , I suspected the fuel could not get through to the loud 044 original Bosch pump because I had used 2 plastic carby type
filters in series.
I found a good toowoomba ebay site that seems to know what they were talking about . They also said I should not use those plastic clear paper
filters . Two in series is worse. I got this 30 micron EFI filter to use before the pump. It can be reused and cleaned out .
This is the first filter , really catching some debri. I have previously cleaned this tank out.
So I put the pre filter in , but still could not get the EJ22 started . Then I thought well perhaps I have fried that 044 pump because it has been
really screeching for a few months now.
Next step I replaced the 044 with the 070copy pump that I bought 2 years ago. I originally changed this because at 30kmh or more it seemed to
to struggle but now perhaps in hindsight it was not the pump , it was the combination of things .
Nope still cannot get that buggEJJ22err started.
what about spark?
the plugs are new when I started this conversion but were really oiled up bad. I think I have put too much oil in. So I cleaned them out and guess
what? she starts!
Starts nicely but I am back to the start . I just cannot get it to sit at 750 and it wanders a bit , this sounds like a vaccuum leak.
But then I notice when it gets hot and the fans come on the speed gets bumped up, the idle is more like 1000rpm. Same as before - high idle
Ok thats it for today, I will still claim a mild victory
As usual comments advice are welcome
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 26th, 2014 at 07:19 PM |
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Johhno
good news so far with this 070 pump - no noise - it is real quiet. I cannot almost hear the start up prime
Kombi still on stands , not tested on highway just yet.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 08:21 PM |
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hi all
I need to start thinking of proper exhaust system for Sunnyjlm EJ22 conversion
I presume the headers come down go to a cat then do a 180° and the exhaust hangs off the back like a normal kombi
I was thinking of just taking it to the local Midas
any suggestions?
I have a temp setup . I have used the stock liberty headers and a scrap exhaust
But of course it runs straight up underneath and finishes near the steering rods!
It seems the easiest and cheapest would be to put in a 90° turn and the tailpipe could exit In front of the rear right wheel
l have seen this before but of Course the most Common approach if for the muffler right at the back
pros and cons of both approaches?
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chellejohno
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| posted on October 15th, 2014 at 03:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
hi all
I need to start thinking of proper exhaust system for Sunnyjlm EJ22 conversion
I presume the headers come down go to a cat then do a 180° and the exhaust hangs off the back like a normal kombi
I was thinking of just taking it to the local Midas
any suggestions?
I have a temp setup . I have used the stock liberty headers and a scrap exhaust
But of course it runs straight up underneath and finishes near the steering rods
It seems the easiest and cheapest would be to put in a 90° turn and the tailpipe could exit In front of the rear right wheel
l have seen this before but of Course the most Common approach if for the muffler right at the back
pros and cons of both approaches?
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Hey Paul,
Yep, I took the easy way out, used the standard headers, cut the exhaust just past the converter, put a muffler on and headed it out in front of the
rear wheel.
My main reason was to keep heat out of the engine bay, as karmann141 said.
Plus it made it really easy.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 16th, 2014 at 09:15 AM |
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Johnno
Thanks mate.
Can you show a few more pics?
How you hung it? Did you use some rubber on a bracket ?
Did you use any particular muffler? I want it quiet.
Assume you still have a cat converter.
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Joel
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| posted on October 16th, 2014 at 12:43 PM |
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Hi Paul, the beauty of the EJ heads is the symmetrical exhaust ports means you can flip the header around and face it the other way.
With mine I swapped the stock gen1 Liberty header for an EJ20 Impreza header as they are more compact and no cat mounted to them.
Me mate Balders used the same one in his low light bus, his is facing forward with a muffler looping around the left of the engine like my bug but
you can also face the Y to the back of the car and mount a muffler to the end so it looks like a VW quiet pack.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 16th, 2014 at 08:29 PM |
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ej25 vs ej22 headers
Hey joel
thanks for that lil tip, it might come in useful
another idea, do u know if ej25 headers will fit on a ej22? or are they different dimensions?
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Joel
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| posted on October 17th, 2014 at 08:57 AM |
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Yep they all use the same mounting flange but it depends what year EJ25.
Most use the same header as the EJ20 but the later ones after about 06 use this equal length one so nice and quiet and lose that Subi rumble but may
get in the way of extended sumps.
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vlad01
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| posted on October 17th, 2014 at 09:49 AM |
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suby have some really weird exhaust designs.
I'd bet they gain quite a considerable amount with custom headers.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 17th, 2014 at 10:21 PM |
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Ok
I have a ej25 in 76 kombi and was thinking of putting that exhaust on the 71 kombi ej22
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chellejohno
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| posted on October 18th, 2014 at 07:16 AM |
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Hey Paul,
Here's a few pics, my exhaust was the same as the one in Joel's pic with the cat converter, we just left the converter in place and cut off just
after it.
Cheers Johno
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