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 Sunnyjim
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| posted on June 29th, 2013 at 05:54 PM |
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Here is a picture of the radiator and fan. I bought 2 of each they look good
however an issue I need to work through, I just assumed if they work in a late Bay then Ok in an early.But seems too high.
If i turn them on their side it will fit however then radiator cap will be on its side and prone to leaking. I would have to seal it off. This sounds
Ok to me as i still have to install a separate overflowtank
advice welcome
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on September 20th, 2013 at 10:42 PM |
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hi all
got the ej22 in wired and running nicely. Not done the radiators yet.
meantime the issue is the vdo tacho won't work on the ej22 but does work on my ej25.
I was told I need a signal booster.
Anyone experienced this.?
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 09:26 PM |
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ok so no replies on the tacho- i know we are all busy
I think I need some sime amplifier circuit ,I will go see the nerds at Jaycar, the upside is they may be filming beauty and the geeks
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 14th, 2013 at 11:56 AM |
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acc cable and bracket -which way does it go?
Hi all
This has been epic project but I am seeing the finish line. The ej22 starts nicely all the time now that I sorted all the breather hoses and the
cranky kit turns it nicely.
When I bought the reverse manifold kit I got a bracket, seems it can be mounted in 4 positions. Front above, front below , behind above and behind
below.
From the pic it is front below, but the cable is at the wrong angle.
Seems best spot is behind top. But it needs some guide to make the cable come in at the right angle
I have seen a pic somewhere where someone used some copper pipe that made a nice curve for the sheath to sit in.
Can someone tell me it goes? A pic would be great.
Also I bought an accelerator cable with sheath. So as the cable is on 1.5m long I assume I join it? Not sure where exactly is the best place. if I
join it , It could snag inside the sheath.
The other idea I had was just to extend my existing kombi cable by a couple of inches up at the pedal end. Then I would have no join to get snagged
inside the sheath.
Can someone offer some advice , thanks
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Joel
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| posted on October 14th, 2013 at 06:36 PM |
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Hi Paul, is your tach totally dead or being jumpy?
If its not working at all have you definetly got the right signal wire to it?
If its jumpy a rectifier diode usually cleans up signal up but it should be good and stable coming out of the ECU.
With your accel cable bracket it looks like they have bent it the wrong way?
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 15th, 2013 at 12:04 AM |
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joel really appreciate your help
the tacho doesn't move at all. I got the loom from AM Auto noosa, but i will do as you say and call them and check that I have the right the wire
. they did already mention i might need a signal booster. Nothing wrong with trying a signal booster as u just mentioned . what comes out of the ECU
? Is it 5 or 12V? Because i used to use this same tacho on the 12v negative side of my old aircooled 1600cc vw donk and it worked well. I coudl try a
diode first, I will see if i can loan a CRO from work and see the real shape of the signal.
funny thing , i took the tacho and connected it to my ej25 in my 76 bus and it works, so I am wondering is the tacho signal out from an ej22
different to an ej25?
sheath bracket- yes i know i don't have in the right position , but i was wondering if it should go up top but at the back? I currently have it
front down below.
do you think i need some curved copper pipe to act as a guide for the sheath? or is the sheath ok on its own just as long as is anchored to the
bracket?
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Joel
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| posted on October 15th, 2013 at 04:42 PM |
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The Tach signal would be the same between the EJ22 and EJ25 so it shouldn't need a boosted if it works on the other one.
If its one of Als looms does it still have all the Letter lables on each wire?
I'll see if I can find my original sheet as he usually does them out all the same as it could just be the wrong wire, there are a lot of ununsed
wires that it could be mistaken for like the A/C control wires etc
I would have thought that was the correct position for the cable bracket, just looks like the twist faces the wrong way.
I'll have to dig out my Subi conversion folder and see if there are any customveedub throttle body inverter pics in that.
It shouldn't need a curve as long as its fitted to the bracket to stop it moving.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 15th, 2013 at 04:48 PM |
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I just used the original Subaru flexible throttle cable outer sheath which will bolt up to your throttle cable bracket (that is currently twisted the
wrong way) and then you can feed that to wherever it needs to go.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 16th, 2013 at 08:44 PM |
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joel
i will check the wires this weekend, i think on the ej25 it was a blue black one , but i am pretty sure it is a different colour on the ej22. always
a chance i mixed it up
bluev2 - i dont have a subie sheath but have a generic, i can try that this weekend
regards to the twisted bracket- does it look twisted because i have it in the wrong position? it is currently front below but i think i need to move
it to top and behind the throttle body. then the angle will be different.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 20th, 2013 at 07:43 PM |
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some good progress
Some good progress. I borrowed an oscilloscope and put it on the tacho signal wire.
Progress, I could see a 12 volt square wave coming out of the ecu. Then i followed it up to the tacho itself. The signal is still there.
So I switched with a vdo tacho and it worked. At least I now know the wiring is good.
I still want to use my old school tacho, so I will look into some booster options.
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Joel
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| posted on October 21st, 2013 at 05:58 PM |
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You could try running the tach signal through a rectifyer diode.
IN4004 were only a few cents each from Dick Smith last time I bought some
I still have some pics of Brads bug which uses the same throttle body and linakge setup you have.
His was mounted from the top side facing up so must be a whole new throttle cable run instead of the stock VW one.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 12:04 AM |
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thanks Joel
Joel
Thanks for the pic it helps. I will give it a go this weekend
I also need to get a vss, I heard vdo is common but I cant see anything on ebay.
Do u know where I can get one from?
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webwalker
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 02:31 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Hi all
This has been epic project but I am seeing the finish line. The ej22 starts nicely all the time now that I sorted all the breather hoses and the
cranky kit turns it nicely.
When I bought the reverse manifold kit I got a bracket, seems it can be mounted in 4 positions. Front above, front below , behind above and behind
below.
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I like the throttle valve reverser; looks like it is meant to be there. Who fabbed it for you?
For the DIY fan, does anyone know the correct dimensions for the fab if one were to crack out their own plasma cutter and welder?
Marshall
The VolksarU Project
1977 Champagne Edition Deluxe Transporter
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA
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 helbus
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 06:01 PM |
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I bought my VDO brand VSS from a Vehicle Instument repairer. I cant remember the price, but it was definitley more than $150. I unscrewed the speedo
cable from the speedo at the back. Screwed the VSS inbetween the two. Then wired the signal back to the ECU and it worked fine. I know someone who ran
their EJ20 without a VSS and it stalled when stopping at traffic lights until the VSS was fitted.
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Joel
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 08:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Joel
Thanks for the pic it helps. I will give it a go this weekend
I also need to get a vss, I heard vdo is common but I cant see anything on ebay.
Do u know where I can get one from?
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I looked into those but decided against them as they only work as well as the VW speedo cable allows which we all know isnt brilliant.
I ended up just mounting a proximity sensor on the back axle which reads the CV joint spinning.
The sensor was only $25 off ebay and 4 years and 75,000kms later still working a treat.
It also operates my digital head up display speedo and has read accurately upto 180km/h so far.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 09:24 PM |
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hi Joel
what is a proximity Sensor and where do I get one?
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Joel
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| posted on October 23rd, 2013 at 09:08 AM |
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They are just metal detectors and can be picked up on ebay.
If you are not too worried about accuracy you just set it up to sense the CV joint bolts as they spin passed it.
CV joints have 6 bolts where as Subaru VSS typical are 5 pulses per wheel revolution.
Do you know what year EJ22 it is?
THe OBD1 like mine just have a square wave ground signal and the ECU only needs to know if the car is moving or stopped so accuracy doesnt matter too
much, a wrong pulse count is only an issue if you using it for a speedo as well like I am.
where as the later stuff has a 5volt square wave pattern and they also use vehicle speed to dictate radiator fan speed so if it not accurate your fans
may come on too late/early.
Heres one a mate copied from mine in his bus on the inner CV joint
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 24th, 2013 at 08:03 PM |
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Joel Thanks for the pic.
does anyone supply this as a kit?
Not sure I could fabricate that metal piece.
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mackaymanx
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| posted on October 24th, 2013 at 09:37 PM |
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http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29880
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 24th, 2013 at 11:47 PM |
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for 71 bus?
Gday Brent that vss looks the goods. I went to the small car website and it is all about vanagons not early bays.
Will it work on my 71 bus?
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mackaymanx
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| posted on October 25th, 2013 at 06:51 AM |
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The wheel will bolt to the CV fine as it's the same CV. The arm with the sensor bolts to a boss on the gearbox which I don't think the earlier boxes
have but you should be able to find somewhere.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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vlad01
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| posted on October 25th, 2013 at 03:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
They are just metal detectors and can be picked up on ebay.
If you are not too worried about accuracy you just set it up to sense the CV joint bolts as they spin passed it.
CV joints have 6 bolts where as Subaru VSS typical are 5 pulses per wheel revolution.
Do you know what year EJ22 it is?
THe OBD1 like mine just have a square wave ground signal and the ECU only needs to know if the car is moving or stopped so accuracy doesnt matter too
much, a wrong pulse count is only an issue if you using it for a speedo as well like I am.
where as the later stuff has a 5volt square wave pattern and they also use vehicle speed to dictate radiator fan speed so if it not accurate your fans
may come on too late/early.
Heres one a mate copied from mine in his bus on the inner CV joint
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does the suby ECU use spark control for gear change, low speed cruise and oscillation smoothing? dead accurate VSS is needed if thats the case so the
ECU can calculate instantaneous gear position.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 25th, 2013 at 04:01 PM |
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Hey glad
I think the ecu is 89.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on October 25th, 2013 at 06:01 PM |
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hi Marshall Webwalker
Sorry I missed your previous question
I got my throttle body reverser from Paul Brandt at
fit-turn-tech@hotmail.com
he also does the cranky kits - very nice
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Sunnyjim
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 posted on November 3rd, 2013 at 10:13 AM |
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small car vss
Hi all
I ordered a vss hall sensor kit from smallcar.com
Will update when I have a go at the the install
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 9th, 2013 at 08:42 PM |
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 12th, 2013 at 12:12 AM |
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radiator set up
Started getting serious on the weekend about fitting the twin radiators into the engine bay
here they are with fans assembled onto them, I wont be usung shrouds
[URL=http://s693.photobucket.com/user/Grubbyboy_bucket/media/20131110_135423_zps9a92b500.jpg.html]
this is just sitting in there not plumbed yet . As you can see I have put it on its side, it fits better this way .
I am not sure if I should be concerned that the radiator cap is on its side? Does anyone know? I assume the cap is a good seal and overflow would
go via the overflow pipe into a catch bottle
I am getting a little confused , do I need a fill tank as well as a overflow bottle? Can anyone show me a plumbing diagram?
 [/URL]
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 12th, 2013 at 12:19 AM |
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I am not sure if i have installed the fans right. no instructions
but the fans have a small gap with the radiator , which I think is right . But I was not happy that I think I push the black cord through the
radiator fins (seems I could damage and spring a leak) and secure on the other side , spring keep tension on it
Anyone let me know if u see a mistake
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nils
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| posted on November 12th, 2013 at 07:38 AM |
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Hi sunnyjim. The mounting of those fans sure looks a little haphazard, The little metal springs on the rearside look like they sure could do some
damage. I would be taking those off and having the plastic washer against the fins, or better yet make some bigger rubber washers to fit under those
again.
I hope not to offend, but those radiators don't fit for S#*^! you have a lot of shrouding to do in your future. Also it looks that your lower
coolant hose will interfere with engine lid spring. There was a fellow discussing radiators for busses a few weeks ago, mentioned he has 2 911
radiators in his. I looked up these and did some measurements, by all accounts they should slip in like butter. plus they are designed to run side
flow.
As far as the radiator caps go, I would think that they should be fine lying down although idealy you should cut them off and have them welded shut.
two less things that can leak.
Your cooling system should have an expansion tank and an over flow bottle, you can get away with out the overflow just means you are dumping on the
ground. Depending on the size of the hoses on you expansion, you may concider a remote fill point cut into one of your hoses. ( aeroflow make these,
about $50) at this point your set up would have 4 radiator caps. Have a look on some of the 4WD forums and read up on cooling system design, these
boys take there cooling very seriously.
Lastly here is a useful diagram I saved, based on a subi into a T3 bus.
Quit calling rust patina
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 12th, 2013 at 08:35 AM |
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Nils
No offence taken at all mate, I was hoping for this type of advice. I will read through all this and most likely come back and ask questions
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