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 Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 13th, 2013 at 07:26 PM |
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size of overflow tank important?
Question?
I need to buy a radiator overflow tank. I have seen from 500ml up b to 2.5 litres.
is a 500ml one enough volume?
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nils
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| posted on November 13th, 2013 at 09:43 PM |
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I have a alloy 500ml expansion that i decided not to use, if you decide to go that way.
I decided not to use it because I wanted to see how much was in it
Quit calling rust patina
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 10:16 PM |
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Thanks nils, i just bought a 750ml one. I hope that will be enough, as I have no idea how much fluid is lost and recovered due to normal expansion
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on November 27th, 2013 at 06:52 PM |
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can you guess which one is the overflow bottle ?
This weekend could be momentus , as well as the aussies winning the RLWC I hope to get to the stage and pour green coolant thru the ej22.
I have bought a bunch of hoses and connectors , some 38mm aluminium pipe and will start on the cooling system. I also bit the bullet and took the 2
radiators to a welding shop to get them to cut toff the rad caps , as they wont be needed and they would not fit in either. I will use a combination
and an expansion tank and a overflow bottle .
can you guess which one is the overflow bottle ?
I also have never really been satisfied with the accelerator linkages, I did put a Just kampers kit thru it, that did improve it
SO I found this great looking bit of gear call the " Buttybit" from Simon in the UK, looks and feels real solid. will install this weekend and
update.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on December 20th, 2013 at 11:30 AM |
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which hose do tap to fill the coolant?
I am nearly there!
Just mounted twin rads and fans.
Install the expansion tank this weekend.
I have tapped into the lower main radiator hose (right side of engine bay )
However just thinking is that the best place? If the engine is cold and thermostat closed does the coolant full the radiators.
Any ideas?
Joel?
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Joel
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| posted on December 20th, 2013 at 02:59 PM |
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Ideally you would want a feed into the header tank from both cold and hot sides.
It has 2 ports on it, but just the cold side like you have done will work as long as you have a genuine thermostat with the bleed hole in it.
Most aftermarket ones dont have that which would make it a PITA to get the air out of.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on December 20th, 2013 at 03:32 PM |
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Hi joel
Thanks for the quick reply as I wanted to try to have a go this weekend.it helps.
My plastic expansion tank has one large Outlet at the bottom and 2 very small ones at the top and I assume these are 2 overflows?does that sound
right.
I could drill tap another outlet in the expansion tank and tap into hot radiator hose.
what is better to help bleed air if I connect into the top or bottom of the expansion tank? Does it matter?
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Joel
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| posted on December 22nd, 2013 at 08:55 PM |
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Doesnt really matter, as long as you letting air trapped at the hieghest point find its way to the header tank.
I would just try running a hose down to the hot side first and see how it goes.
It will probably be slow filling though as it has to feed through that small bleed hole in the thermstat.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 22nd, 2013 at 09:17 PM |
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try this stuff.
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/
you only need one radiator cap to vent to over flow , you can buy caps that don't have spring or valves in them , Toyota have them .just drill and
tap a small pipe fitting into the top water out let on motor and connect to header tank.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on December 24th, 2013 at 09:41 AM |
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Leaky water pump
Joel and Ian thanks for the suggestions. I was successful yesterday made a filler into the hot side.. I was getting excited as Iran the green coolant
through it.. Bugger- small drip looks to be coming from the water pump weep hole. According to Haynes I replace the water pump. It says I take off
drive belt, plastic covers and timing belt + tensinoner to get to the water pump,(not looking fwd to that
If I buy a water pump are they all the same ? Or any high flow?
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Joel
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| posted on December 24th, 2013 at 01:40 PM |
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I've got a brand new genuine one here that was bought for my first engine I'll never need if you're interested
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on December 24th, 2013 at 11:01 PM |
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Sounds good
hi Joel
Yes I am interested the water pump Let me know what you want for it.
Can you confirm there is no easy way? I have to take the timing belt to replace the get to the water pump ?
Do I also need take off the main pulley or just loosen one of the rollers ?
I guess I will search you tube
thanks Paul
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 25th, 2013 at 02:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
hi Joel
Yes I am interested the water pump Let me know what you want for it.
Can you confirm there is no easy way? I have to take the timing belt to replace the get to the water pump ?
Do I also need take off the main pulley or just loosen one of the rollers ?
I guess I will search you tube
thanks Paul
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joel likes working on his VW , I like to drive mine .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzR3-QI1hfc
thank Joel .
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Joel
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| posted on December 25th, 2013 at 05:06 PM |
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Driving is only half the fun...
Paul you have PM.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on December 30th, 2013 at 09:10 AM |
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Joel
thanks for your help much appreciated
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 10:48 PM |
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Joel or anyone else
How do I just replace the water pump?
Most things I have read talk also of replacing the belt and rollers. I only need to change the waterpump.
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Joel
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| posted on January 23rd, 2014 at 10:11 AM |
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Hi Paul
Ordinarily they are all replaced at once when doing a timing belt change so most will say do the lot.
As you are only doing the water pump you won't need to worry about that but you will need to remove one of the rollers to get the timing belt off.
Once the belt is off its just a matter of unbolt the old water pump, get the gasket surfaces spotless and bolt back together and refit the timing
belt.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 23rd, 2014 at 10:25 PM |
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Joel
thx for the quick reply, it helps as I want to have a go this weekend
I assume I first remove the 2 bolts on the tensioner adjuster ? then one of the rollers?( if so which one?)
or Can i get the belt off just by removing one of the rollers? and not even touch that tensioner?
A bit confusing because everything I have read implies I want to change the belt and remove the rollers but I only want to do the water pump
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Joel
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| posted on January 24th, 2014 at 09:09 AM |
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The tensioner has to come off anyway as it needs to be compressed in a bench vice.
I just remove it first and the belt comes off easy enough.
Here's my post from when I did mine,
I didn't do the water pump as you know but its very straight forward.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=77027&page=13#pid752752
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 24th, 2014 at 12:06 PM |
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Joel
Ok this is starting to make sense.
Do I first need to line up all the belt timing marks? Or it doesn't matter as long as i don't move anything in between?
Remove tensioner
Remove timing belt
Replace water pump
Reinstall timing belt
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 24th, 2014 at 12:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Joel
Ok this is starting to make sense.
Do I first need to line up all the belt timing marks? Or it doesn't matter as long as i don't move anything in between?
Remove tensioner
Remove timing belt
Replace water pump
Reinstall timing belt
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line all marks up to be safe
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 25th, 2014 at 05:42 PM |
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ok thanks
Ian
Thanks good advice
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Joel
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| posted on January 26th, 2014 at 09:19 AM |
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It's a lot easier to spin the crank over with a socket and line them up while the belts still on but its not critical.
As long as they all line up properly.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 27th, 2014 at 11:48 AM |
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water pump job done
Ok Got the new water pump in , poured some green coolant in and hey presto no leaks
Joel and Ian thx for the help
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 27th, 2014 at 03:51 PM |
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It doesn't hurt to add some wynns to older motor cooling systems .
http://wynns.net/product/radiator-stop-leak/
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Joel
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| posted on January 27th, 2014 at 09:27 PM |
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Glad it went to good use.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 30th, 2014 at 08:27 AM |
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next job fans
Incremental progress......
coolant in no leaks, EJ 22 runs up to temp nicely. I dont leave it run for over 10 mins yet but the temp gauge warms up nicely . I will Wire in the
twin fans this weekend.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on January 31st, 2014 at 10:02 PM |
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fresh air needed?
I have put the k&N pod filter just straight on the end of the throttle body. Do I need to try to get it to suck fresh cooler air? Does it make a
difference?
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Joel
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| posted on February 1st, 2014 at 09:39 AM |
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Is yours one of the really late ones with a map sensor instead of an air flow meter?
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ian.mezz
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| posted on February 1st, 2014 at 03:24 PM |
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if its one of these you mount hose so it sucks in cool air from out side the engine bay.
http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm
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