I've got a '72 microbus, it has had a type-4 1800 put in it. I've only just putit back on the road after nearly 2 years garage. I've given it a serive, still needs to be tuned up by a pro mechanic though but ive done all the other simple bits (plugs cap oil etc). Couple of years ago I had a problem with it where after drvingin at highway speeds for say, half an hour to an hour, it would start to loose power. IT where asif at a certain temperature something triggered it. If I eased of the gass for a bit, i dropped the clutch, it would fix itself but only momentarily. If I pulled over and rested for 10 minuets it was fine again for another 10 minuets or so. Anyway I ended up putting a higher geared transmission in there and a new fuel pump and that seemed to help.
Just got it back on the road again, I drove it for about 3 hours last week, was fine, then on the way back home from my destination it started doing it again. Today I drove it to geelong and after about 5 minuets it had no power. I had to pull over for about 10 minuets and get 5 minuets use out of it before it the power disapeared again.
Does anyone know what is causing this?
My fuel filter has bubbles in it, I get bubbles comming up from the tank. Not sure if that is normal. It seems to be a temperature related thing, something stops fuel from getting to the carbs once a certain temp threashold is reached. I could be wrong though.
any tips!?
sounds like air is getting into your fuel lines
you should replace them every few years
so now might be a good time anyway !👍
I had read that that is normal on another board to have air bubbleing in non EFI systems. no?
could do with a replace anyway im sure!
and would that be causeing my car to behave this way?
It perhaps could be vapour lock, can be fairly common in VW's. Its when reasonalbey high temp in engine bay can cause the fuel in the lines to vapourise and hence not allow fuel to the carb. Im unsure of the extact fix though someone else maybe able to help. On thing that can help is to make sure there are no high spots in the fuel line before the carb as this is where the vapour will go and stay and then not allow fuel to pass.
Hope this may help.
Joel
[ Edited on 24-8-2007 by 9Derro0 ]
Is your tank vented? next time it does it, take the cap off and see if it fixes it also fule filter could be stuffed
[ Edited on 24-8-2007 by silver ]
Keeping it real !
it must be a fuel or heat related problem..hmmm what type of carbs do you run? do you run a electronic choke? it might be worth taking that out of the equation while you troubleshoot.
Cheers Stephen
it may be your cam lol thatd be a real S$%T!!
I had the same power loss problem with a 2l motor. I think the problem was the mechanical fuel pump because the fuel filter was never more than about 1/3 - 1/2 full and is now always completely full with the electric pump and the power loss has gone away i.e. power is back to shit-house from extremely shit-house!
The other change I made which may have a bearing was to the air filter. I am running a weber progressive which had the crap sports filter on it when I got it. I changed to an air filter from a Mazda that lets hot air in when the engine is cold and vice-versa (like the stock setup). The cooler air probably helps with power but I don't know how much 😉
[ Edited on 27-8-2007 by woz_mnskmobi ]
also ,buy a new coil,I had similar problem a while back ,where at anytime when engine got warm ,it would either loose power ,or just stop completely,leave for a few minutes ,then start and run perfect foor ages then stop at the worst possible times.took me a while to finally work out it may be the coil,soon as I put on a new one ,no probs since,worth a shot.
reminds me of fuel starvation, either blocked overflow/aerator on tank or worn pump, especially if it is missing noticably when it is playing up.
Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=64806
all sorted I think, went for a drive this afternoon and no complaints. Seems much more respinsive too.
Fuel pump pushrod wears badly and the cam lobe it runs on. Both will effect fuel pump output. Sorry I cant remember spec on pushrod protrusion on max stroke.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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yeh wasnt that long ago I had new pushrod etc put in. Just would rather pay 90 bucks for an electric pump than 400 for a descent mechanical one. 🙂 Mexican and brazilian ones just shit themselves apparently.
