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 kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 07:25 AM |
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Petrol tank and pre jobs before starting Bug S
Ok Not a great start to getting engine started.
HELP PLEASE
Car has sat for 2 years and was in a minor front end. Have removed the battery from my kombi and ignition lights etc seem fine. Went to fill with
clean petrol but it promptly leaked out from underneath! I think it is just the pipe with in-line fuel filter that has come away but I really dont
know as I cant see the nipple it connects to? Do I have to remove tank or is there some plate on underside to remove. Cant really see properly at the
moment as fuel still coming out. On my kombi I can easily see this nipple but the bug is a challenge for many things it seems.
Even the Spark plugs look like there going to be a real pain to remove !.
Any help apreciated re petrol tank. And also if anyone can tell me what I should be doing before turning over would be great.
My plan was
# Pour in Clean fuel (though that has already provided a new job!)
# Clean spark plugs (if can get them out !)
# Clean points and check distributor cap
# and clean air filter
Then attemp to turn her over
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 07:29 AM |
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Forgot to subscribe to know when I get a reply and cant see how without doing on initial message? So writing an add on
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 08:08 AM |
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Ok well I have found answer to first question alone. You have to remove the Tank. ARE YOU LOT MAD!!! Why the bloody hell would you want a beetle? The
kombi is far less bloody hard to get at things like a simple fuel line! Anyway now to put it back in and fill with fresh fuel.
Any other suggestions re pre checks prior to starting would be apreciated, as I will keep returning during day to check.
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 Bizarre
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 08:39 AM |
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drain oil and replace
Cheap stuff - you will do it a few times
Set valves
Spark plugs are easy
Personally i like to remove the engine lid
Take it off
get rid of the spring
On the hinge - knok the hinge pin out and replace with 2 cut down VW dip sticks.
Perfect size.
Now it is a PoP to take the lid off and work down
If you just want to look you rest it on your head or stick a screw driver in the hinge to hold it open
As for getting the plugs out a normal socket with a knuckle and 2" extension and no problems what so ever
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Sides
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 08:40 AM |
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A couple of things I'd also be doing before trying to start it:
- check condition of all fuel hoses around the engine bay... 2 years of doing nothing, they still may have perished to nothing
- check there's nothing living in the carby or any other open holes... I'm thinking wasp nests, stuff like that (I've seen it before)
- check engine has oil, what condition it's in etc.
- make engine will turn over by hand (as in socket on the pulley or grab V belt)
- if it has an oil pressure gauge, disconnect HT lead from coil to dissy (so can't start) then crank on battery until there's oil pressure
- it no oil pressure gauge, do the same thing for a minute or so then pull the oil pressure sender and oil should come out
- once you actually start it, only run long enough to warm the oil, then give it an oil change
Other than that, good luck and let us know how you go !!!
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 08:52 AM |
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Well i cut the fuel hose at both ends and that fixed leak. I then fitted back on tank and rested tank down. I then refit in-line fuel filter and
filled it with enough petrol to find hose had split again. Have decided that has told me something lol. Looks like a trip to repco. And thanks
bizarre and sides, will take on board your advice when I get that far but I think I will keep lid as is.
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 08:56 AM |
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Why wont Kombi start!!! Duh battery is in Beetle
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pod
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 09:54 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kombivw
Why wont Kombi start!!! Duh battery is in Beetle
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that does help  the fuel line is one thing that needs changing as you
have found out ,and maybe a new filter as well as the plastic ones can get brittle with age as well :-(
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 10:11 AM |
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Not only that. I need to replace fuel line on other side of fuel filter! That is crazy it is about 2 inches inside with no access and a crimp fit! How
are you sposed to get that? All I can think of is to break crimp and push new fuel line on with no crimp or dubly clip, as simply no way to get to it
anyway. Any suggestions.
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 10:52 AM |
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Hope you guys dont mind the constant broadcast, but I am no mechanic and in between curses am actually not really disliking it. That is a poor design
on fuel line after tank. What has happened is that someone has bent that pipe back while trying to force a new fuel filter on. When I used pliars to
litterally break up crimp and old hose, it actually pulled pipe back to where it was visable. I was then able to connect the hose with a dubly clip.
So have now connected all back up and put fuel in and it is holding. Must admit I was worried that I may have broken pipe but there are no leaks so
all good.
Next is oil change, so lucky 4 you I may be too filthy to type so often lol
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 12:06 PM |
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| Quote: |
drain oil and replace
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The idiot guide states remove drain plug. But there is not one to remove! Do I actually have to remove the pan held with 6 bolts? I usually remove
that on kombi after I have drained oil. Why cant it just have a drain plug like the Kombi? Please tell me I am doing something wrong, I will wait for
10 before starting on 6 bolts
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 02:48 PM |
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Reading back I only just realised what you meant re lid Bizarre, I thought you meant to make it a permanent pin removal feature.. Never did find the
drain plug but removed a side plate and found a bolt i could losen enough to drain oil so drained just to that point and refilled. Checked carbs for
obstructions removed air filter and added a little fuel inside carb. Flicked ignition and nothing!
Ironic really as it actually turned over on ignition when I had tried BEFORE removing tank? Anyway i did find a wire off near back of tank and when I
connected that it did clunk on ignition (not turn over like before tank removal tho) Made assumption solenoid stuck so pushed back and forth (still
just clunk) tried to wedge a spanner between solenoid and live (nothing) All i have is a clunk. I have seriously had enough today so will start
tomorrow on removal of starter. As I just want to get all tools back in order and get cleaned up. I so wanted it to just turn over at least.
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Joel
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 05:02 PM |
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David, im guessing your kombi has a type4 engine in it seeing as you are abit unfamiliar with the type1 engine
it must be a later model engine
vw stopped putting the drain plug in to force lazy owners to drop the sump plate off and clean the strainer
to many people just used to drop the sump plug and never cleaned the strainer
just be gentle with the 6 nuts they can strip real easy, and get a new sump plate gasket kit b4 you do the final oil change
with the decklid all i do is fit some push toghether terminals on the number plate light wires for quick disconnecting and drive out the hinge pins
and fit 6mm R clips
they're used on tractors and agricultural equipment and ive been timed, it takes me 15 seconds to remove my decklid and 32 to fit it back on
including the spring
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 05:26 PM |
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Joel What would I do without your constant help (And others of course). Yer your right, mine is the 74 model Kombi, and I ask you what has it got to
do with vw that there are lazy drivers who dont clean the Strainer !. I still reckon I prefer the plug as I do then remove strainer and clean it, but
anyway I am starting to realise that any short cuts I may want dont seem to exist lol
I am so puzzled with the fact the engine turned before I removed Tank and now just clunks. Do you agree it must be the starter? Or could there have
been any other wires I disturbed while removing petrol tank? I was surprised I disturbed any as I only lifted it enough to get to hose nipple.
The starter is also a pain to remove but thats similar to all starters I have tried to remove (always one difficult bolt/nut.
Anyway will remove deck lid and look at alternative method as it appears they will both be off for some time. Am Pretty sure judging by hoses near
tank that there will be a lot of internal and external rubber to replace on engine as well.
The guy who owned this did not have much idea of using a dip stick to top up engine either, it was 2 inches over the full mark! Hoping this may have
actually helped with keeping some rubbers lubricated but probably wont.
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Joel
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 05:50 PM |
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All good, thats what these forums are for
maybe tracing the wire from the ignition switch back to the solenoid would be a good start as it goes thro 2 connectors along the way which come apart
and get dirty connecters
one near the fuel tank which may have been disturbed and another under the back seat
from memory a 71 super the starter motor wire is red with black trace bout 8 guage
the old spanner bridging trick on the solenoid is tricky on a bug due to lack of room and also orientation of the terminals
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pod
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 07:10 PM |
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if the battery terminals arent on tight enough you will get a clunk, as contact is broken ,have done this many a time ,because i`m to lazy to tighten
terminals whilst only temporarily using the battery out of one beetle for the other
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kombivw
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| posted on March 14th, 2009 at 09:41 PM |
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Thats actually a very good point. And I never even tightened it after it was clunking. I did move them around and wedged a screwdriver to tighten and
still never done more than clunked then. I am thinking I should have tightened them now, and I am all but finished pulling the starter out! Just one
bolt, Yes that one.
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kombivw
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| posted on March 15th, 2009 at 11:24 AM |
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Ok reconnected starter motor and tightened terminals. I then checked that wire mentioned near petrol tank and its fine but still have just a clunk.
Voltmeter reads 12 volt and battery is great. Is there another wire from near tank that I may have dislodged or is it just the one that follows from
ignition to back seat then solenoid? Looking like starter must come out but will wait till after work tomorrow and enjoy last day of weekend.
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 helbus
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| posted on March 15th, 2009 at 01:53 PM |
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Have you filled the tank with fuel? If so, sitting for a long time dry the carby may have a problem with a stuck float or perished needle and seat. It
can cause fuel to drain into the engine if the tank level is higher than the carby. The engine fills with fuel, and being locked solid with petrol, it
won't turn over. I have seen it once, and it is a long shot if you cant get any other electrical reason why the starter wont turn, and it seems the
engine is locked. Can you turn the engine by hand by grabbing the pulleys on the back of the engine and turning. If you have a strong grip, you should
be able to get a little bit of slow movement turning it.
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kombivw
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| posted on March 15th, 2009 at 02:56 PM |
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No its not that. There was no fuel at all in carbys and it did turn over before I removed petrol tank to replace hoses that had perished. Its easy to
turn engine and I have done that quite a number of times hoping starter Teeth were engaged in flywheel. But sure there not. I can only think that
there is a wire to solenoid and another to engage tooth that I have dislodged accidentally or that starter has packed up after one turn on ignition?
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kombivw
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| posted on March 16th, 2009 at 07:07 AM |
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C'mon brains trust! I want suggestions :-) Is it so quiet because you all agree the starter has to come out?
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on March 16th, 2009 at 12:13 PM |
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Yep.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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kombivw
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 02:13 PM |
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taking starter out was actually not too bad! Now to test it
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colonel mustard
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 02:48 PM |
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Mate, give an update on what you have done, and what you havent...
If it was me, i would have done, so far
- new plugs
- changed the oil and cleaned (or got a new) strainer
- done all the fuel lines (yes the whole way) [and used genuine fuel line cause it lasts longer)
- new filters (one at front and some people have one at the rear also
- checked the carby - fuel wise. you could even take it out and rebuild it if it sucks
- conneted the battery (imagine you are doing it not to take it back out.... maybe buy a new one)
- points
- valves
-make sure your belt is tightish... not toooo tight and not work or brittle...
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kombivw
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 03:55 PM |
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That's a very thorough and great list to follow. Already made one mistake tho as I fitted the repco fuel lines without braiding. But hey they will do
for now and I am more wiser on how to change later. Mine does have the two fuel filters and I have purchased both as well as points. Thanks for that
and I will follow it point to point. I guess I just wanted to hear her turn over and got excited.
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colonel mustard
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 04:02 PM |
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I know that feeling. but your better off having it all done, and checking it a few times over. go to bed. have a look again the next day. Make sure
you triple check your oil, it pays too have some in there  You will
proabably have to change that fuel line within a year. dont stress on it though. Another tip, make sure the rear fuel filter is not between the fuel
pump and carby, and is away from the disi. if its not in the engine bay, pake sure its well away from exhaust components. you dont want no fire.
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kombivw
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| posted on March 28th, 2009 at 06:11 PM |
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Finished front end for now so started on engine proper. Drained oil (its practically clear!, but there was half a very thin washer between strainer
and plate? Removed Disi cap, and points and rotor practically brand new! pulled one plug ( again looks brand new but black soot so will remove all
and just clean and set. Am not even gonna touch valves or carb at this stage, just get starter fixed, New fuel lines and a battery and once strainer
cleaned and reinstalled will try to start. What a great day for progress. I really reckon someone as bad as me has had a go at this and because of
internittent rotation of starter gave up.
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colonel mustard
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| posted on March 28th, 2009 at 06:20 PM |
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hopefully you will be up and running soon. Make sure you dont test it in the wet... find a straight flat road and see if you need an allignment in
your front end. Wheel alignments are important!
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 28th, 2009 at 06:25 PM |
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lol I got no brakes at all after front end mate. And sure that pipe is gonna seep anyway when i try to bleed them. No there wont be any run up and
down road till that front end is done completely and a pro checks alignment etc . But what a great feeling to actually start a job and see it through.
Thanks for your help Colonel really really really apreciated and others to.
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colonel mustard
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| posted on March 28th, 2009 at 06:31 PM |
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Welcome dude. Dont be affriad to ask people here... If you need help, Im sure there are some blokes in your part of the country that will come help
you.
Brakes are important... If any of your rubber lines are weeping or anything, replace them, its not worth risking it, Ol' dubs have bad enough brakes
as it is!
good luck with it!!
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