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 bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 10:50 AM |
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Daniel, for curiousity sake u atleast gotta take it down the Warrick quarter mile. com'on!!! :P
Doing a brilliant job.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Smiley
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 10:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Daniel, for curiousity sake u atleast gotta take it down the Warrick quarter mile. com'on!!! :P
Doing a brilliant job.
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Not happening!!! My gearbox probably wouldn't last one pass. I'm going to try and look after this one.
Besides, at the rate I'm going it'll probably still be getting run in on the way down.
Smiley 
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Smiley
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 10:21 PM |
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Ok. More updates.
I got both of the rear trailing arms fitted. I also threw the outer bearings on the stub axles too.
Just need to throw the outer seals and brakes on and I can put her back on her wheels.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 10:24 PM |
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I pulled the tinware off the old engine and put it in the car ready to clean up at work tomorrow.
Lots of cleaning and some repairs to be done.
I'm not sure if I'll be reusing all of it or scrounging through my parts collection to try and find some better examples.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 10:31 PM |
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Started doing a little tinware mockup too.
A while back I picked up one of the doghouse fanhousings with no heater outlets. They're getting a bit of bad rep at the moment over here http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=92368 so I'll so how it goes.
Initial inspection seems to be that it'll need a little massaging and mods to get the fit nice.
I also have a little bit of a gap between the upper cylinder tins and the fanhousing. This is due to the additional 5mm stoke, and will also need to
be addressed.
I also pulled out a brand new alternator I bought a while back  Loving
all these shiny new parts
Ordered a new seal for my sand sealed pulley today as well, so that'll be finding it's way onto the engine in the near future.
Still plenty to be done!!
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 12:19 PM |
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Got all the tinware bead blasted at work. It all cleaned up really well. But also showed the extent of the damage and cracks they has sustained over
the years. I hit them with some red primer just to stop them rust until I can do the repairs then paint them properly.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 12:21 PM |
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New seal showed up from Classic.
Installed it in the ring and then onto the engine. Tried the pull in place but didn't bolt it down. I still need to fit the under pulley tinware
first.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 12:24 PM |
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Also rebuilt my dizzy with a new Ignitor II kit from Pertronix. The cap and the rotor button will be getting replaced as they are old.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 08:27 PM |
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Fitted up the rest of the wheel bearing stuff and the brakes.
But because I'm running early 5 stud brakes on the later trailing arms the drums aren't as wide, so some of the spline is sticking out.
Fortunately I discovered that the inner part of the old outer wheel bearing is the perfect size to use as a spacer. Please note, I will not be driving
the car like this, it's just so I can put the wheels on and continue work on the car. I'll get one of the blokes in machine shop at work to make me
up a proper pair of spacers.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 08:31 PM |
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Both sides done with the wheels fitted
Look at this. Car jacked of the ground and no massive camber on the rear wheels!  It's some kind of magic.
I'm liking the clearance with the car sitting on the bottom stops.
Thanks for looking, I have a big day planned for tomorrow.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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11CAB
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If ya got it....Baja it
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 09:25 PM |
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Looking Good Smiley
65 Meyers Manx
68 Country Buggy (KO 367)
68 Country Buggy (KO 669)
68 Country Buggy (KO 789)
68 Country Buggy (KO 815)
68 Baja Bug
76 Baja Kombi Twincab
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 10:02 PM |
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Congrats mate
will be ready for warrick in no time
u takin the semi auto for a spin while this ones off the road?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on September 4th, 2011 at 07:38 AM |
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Cool!......
try the bearing spacers out of your swing axle for the spacers.....
i had to weld some of the directional veins in the aftermarket fan shroud, might be worth looking at, depending on the quality
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 matberry
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| posted on September 4th, 2011 at 01:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Cool!......
try the bearing spacers out of your swing axle for the spacers.....
i had to weld some of the directional veins in the aftermarket fan shroud, might be worth looking at, depending on the quality
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Or blob some polyurethane in so the panel doesn't get distorted but stops vibrations.
The swinger seal runners work fine for your axle/drum spacer.
Looking good man....you may want to think about upgrading cv's and notching spring plates for more down travel, but beware of shock length, doesn't
take much and you need longer shocks and a relocated top mount, as the shock compression length needs to also suit at full bump. Now is the time to
set it up.
At ride height you should have a minimum of 1/3 of your travel available in droop, 2/3rd's bump.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on September 4th, 2011 at 08:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Or blob some polyurethane in so the panel doesn't get distorted but stops vibrations.
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What brand of glue is this? Something heat resistant I assume?
| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Looking good man....you may want to think about upgrading cv's and notching spring plates for more down travel, but beware of shock length, doesn't
take much and you need longer shocks and a relocated top mount, as the shock compression length needs to also suit at full bump. Now is the time to
set it up.
At ride height you should have a minimum of 1/3 of your travel available in droop, 2/3rd's bump.
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I would love to go for some wild travel but it's really not necessary at the moment. That car is my daily driver and won't be racing the Baja 1000
anytime soon. So for to time being I'm going to leave her with the stock suspension.
I do need new rear shocks though, any recommendations?
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 4th, 2011 at 08:26 PM |
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Ok. First this on the agenda today was fixing my second cracked framehorn.
All wirebuffed back to bare metal ready for welding. You can see there is a little dirt on the inside on the farmehorn through the crack. I cleaned
all this out before welding to prevent weld contamination.
First thing I did was make sure that the horn hadn't moved out of it's location. Lots of measuring and a few 'tweaks' with the hammer and I welded
up the crack. Then I made up a small plate to go over the area and welded that out too.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 4th, 2011 at 08:37 PM |
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Once this was done I put the new heavy duty CB Performance gearbox mounts on the new transaxle and dropped it in place temporarily.
Cranky kit bolted straight up
Then I was able to trail fit the new engine.
Looking good 
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 4th, 2011 at 08:53 PM |
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I knew that things were going too well and my winning streak was broken when I trail fitted the new exhaust onto the engine.
All I can say is that it is massive!! It's probably half a metre higher than the one on the old engine.
I also run into some clearance issues with my barwork. With the LHS bolted up loosely the exhaust tip hits on the barwork on the RHS.
And this cradle is meant to fit over the exhaust tube next to it to support the muffler.
Overall I'm not very happy with the general fit and finish of the exhaust. It doesn't seem to fit together nicely, I think the tube size (1 5/8) is
too large for my needs, you can't fit washers onto the flanges to bolt in on because the welds are in the way. It sticks up waaaay too high in my
opinion and I don't really want to cut it or modify it because it's ceramic coated. The only plus side is that I got it for a very very good price
as a sort of a bonus with the engine.
Not sure what I'm going to do at this stage.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 8th, 2011 at 08:38 PM |
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Ok people. Another small update.
I started doing some additions to my barwork in order to help strengthen up my framehorns and stop them cracking again.
You can see what's happening here?
Still needs some trimming.
Ground to a prefect fit.
Here it is bolted onto the car.
What I'm going to do is remake the front tubes from my engine cage, they will run from the bar to the torsion housing. Then the rear half of the
engine cage will have flanges added to it and bolt onto the back of the bar. Hard to explain, you'll understand once I have pictures.
I'm going to gain a number of good things from this. The bracing of the framehorns. I'll be able to put a jack under there for lifting the car up.
The engine cage is going to be easier to remove then the current design. The bar is the lowest point of the car, so it'll cop the flogging instead of
the transaxle or engine cases. And it's a nice solid place to mount a skid plate onto.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 8th, 2011 at 08:43 PM |
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And this afternoon I spent 2 hours fiddling with the tinware, starting to get it to fit better. I've only done the LHS Cylinder covers! And they
still need more work. I must have had them on and off 10 dozen times trail fitting.
The LHS upper cylinder cover is actually in quite good condition. Only a few small cracks to fix up.
But there are a few gaps that I have to content with. Because the engine is a stroker nothing really fits very well.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 8th, 2011 at 08:48 PM |
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And the manifold doesn't fit down onto the head either because it jambs in the tinware.
What I ended up doing was shaving the manifold down slightly and reshaping the tinware a bit until it's a nice tight fit. That way I'm not losing
any air out of big gaps.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 8th, 2011 at 08:54 PM |
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And with the gaps a little gentle and gradual tweaking with hammers and dollys. And slight bend with pliers etc etc. And I got things fitting much
better.
I also took the times to hand file the casting marks and imperfections off the heads to give me a smoother surface and better seal.
The LHS is starting to fit very nicely now. The bottom shroud underneath still needs a little adjustment. Then I have to fix the crack and paint.
I'm not looking forward to doing the RHS. The tinware has a lot of cracks and some massive holes broken into it. Going to need some repairs before I
even start trying to get it to fit.
That's all for now.
Thanks for reading.
More soon.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 12:40 PM |
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More stuff has been done.
Whilst shuffling through my new bits I noticed that the oil filter stand didn't have a very nice sealing surface on it. So I took it to work and
blocked it on one of the flat sanding plates we have.
I still have to figure out where to mount this, any ideas??
I also went and got a new pair of rear shocks cause the ones on the back of the car are no good anymore.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 12:45 PM |
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I finished off the LHS tinware last night and got the manifold and everything to fit nicely.
Lots of little cracks to weld up.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 12:47 PM |
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And on to the RHS.
This side is very broken up and cracked.
Tack , tack ,tack.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 12:50 PM |
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For the large holes where the screws are meant to go I got some panel washers and sat them in place.
I put all of the lower tinware on so the upper cylinder cover was held in the right position. Then I screwed it down with the large washers in place.
Weld them on, bit of a clean up and it's looking good
Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 12:53 PM |
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What started out looking like this.
Now looks like this, and is much stronger.
I also had to repair the other end too.
But now all the cylinder tinware fits nice and seals well!!
More than a few hours labour.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 01:14 PM |
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So now it's time to start making the fanhousing fit.
It's quite gappy, but I was expecting to have to tweak the upper cylinder covers a bit anyway.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 01:18 PM |
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With a little grinding, bending, tapping and 'persuasion' I've got the fanhousing sitting down nicely. The only issue was the larger gap at the end
where the bolt goes through. And only on one side.
Which was quickly sorted. 
The gap on the opposite side is fine.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 01:21 PM |
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So the fanhousing fits nicely now. I just need to sort out the dump vent for the oil cooler and everything will be getting painted. Rattle can for the
time being, powder coated when I get the time and money.
And I couldn't resist dropping the carbies into place to see how it looks Can't get the smile off my face.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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