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 BlueV2
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 01:07 PM |
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Different air flow meter
Does anyone know if it is possible to get another air flow meter that is shorter than the subaru standard one, or is there another setup that removes
it ? I am trying to reduce the length of the intake tube so that the air cleaner is not behind the back wheel.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Dub_Life
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 01:24 PM |
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Depends what Type it is, Plazmaman sell one that works with the later model wrx AFM's, the 2 screw in ones. I think its what steve used on his 1303
theres a pic on page 8 of his thread below. Its on there site under subaru. Can only run without it with after market ECU, I'm pretty sure.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 01:28 PM |
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Yeah, mine is a 98 version. I'm not really wanting to change the ECU.
Thanks for your reply.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Subarugears
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 04:05 PM |
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Hey Mark, what about using a later model inlet manifold?
I see the later model STi inlet manifolds have a very compact plenum chamber (almost non-existent) which would make the whole setup more compact.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 04:10 PM |
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Yeah, but then I would have to pay to get another manifold modified! I dont know enough about this stuff, but I am guessing the wiring and water
plumbing would all be different, but maybe not.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Dub_Life
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 04:44 PM |
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Yeah sorry I dont think there is any options out there to replace that one and they don't come apart, All you can really do is plumb it a different
way. I'm having the same difficultly trying to fit AFM, pod filter WAIC all under the hood.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 04:49 PM |
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Bugger !!
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 15th, 2012 at 09:42 PM |
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Hi
I bought one of these from GCG turbos for my bug, I'm not sure if its the same for your model motor, mines a 2003 model.
Steve
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 16th, 2012 at 12:55 PM |
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That is a nice setup, but mine is the older style AFM which is in the plastic housing, Looks like you cant modify them or replace them with anything,
so now I am looking at getting a different air cleaner pod.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Dub_Life
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| posted on October 16th, 2012 at 03:29 PM |
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Thats a 3A racing pod filter, have been tested against all the expensive brands and came out on top should get one for around $30. Also have you
thought about reversing intake manifold or putting an elbow between the manifold and throttle body (like joel did) to change direction of the air
intake. Just a couple of options.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 16th, 2012 at 03:49 PM |
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I lost my pictures server so cant put one up to show you how this is currently setup, but I have a modified inlet manifold with a pipe coming into the
centre of the manifold and then going out to the right of the buggy. By the time I put a pod filter on it is out too far. The 3A racing one looks
about the same size as what I currently have. I am looking for something shorter but fatter I guess.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 02:27 PM |
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I have now rebuilt my server, so here are a couple of pics that might explain what I am trying to do.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Subarugears
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 02:58 PM |
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Mark, explain to me again why you can't flip your alternator over to the left?
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Subarugears
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 03:19 PM |
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For reference - here is a procedure for creating a left-flip alternator on a Subie engine. Reproduced from
http://www.vtpete.com/vw/labels/engine.html
The appropriate length belt :
With the rotated coolant manifold the stock location of the alternator no longer works. Slowly, I built up a bracket that would bolt into the location
of the old power steering pump. I mostly used 3/4" square tubing, with a few pieces of spare metal that I had laying around also. (There are some
pieces of old bumper brackets and bed frame angle iron in there 
This is the pivot side of the alternator. I needed to make sure the oil pressure sensor and throttle body preheater hose would fit around the
bracket.
This is a mock up of the adjustable side of the alternator. The OEM bracket bolts from the other side, but I'm planning to bolt through in this
direction because it is less fabricating and material needed.
This is the front side of the adjuster. You can see here it adjusts like normal, just from the other side. I had to pay a lot of attention to the min
and max adjustments of the alternator to be able to get the most travel possible. I ended up having to grind down the intake and alternator a bit to
get even more travel.
This is the roughly finished bracket (minus paint of course). I added some gusseting to make a little more rigid.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 03:30 PM |
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Because he is missing something that every car and buggy should have, the A/C compressor.
The issue is not the alternator, the issue is that when you flip the inlet manifold around it hits the A/C compressor and wont bolt down.
He also said this "With the rotated coolant manifold the stock location of the alternator no longer works". Dont know why, I have been running a
rotated coolant manifold for the last 3 years without any issues with the alternator in the stock position. Maybe is motor is a different model to
mine.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 03:34 PM |
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Just heard from the K&N supplier and the pod that I want that I think will fix the issue will not be in Australia until mid to late November !!
I guess that gives me time to install the new Subarugears mounts, which is going to move the position of the motor anyway
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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11CAB
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 06:34 PM |
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What was wrong with the way you had it before the manifold was modified by Paul?
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Joel
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| posted on October 17th, 2012 at 08:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by BlueV2
He also said this "With the rotated coolant manifold the stock location of the alternator no longer works". Dont know why, I have
been running a rotated coolant manifold for the last 3 years without any issues with the alternator in the stock position. Maybe is motor is a
different model to mine.
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It's just a typo, he meant intake manifold.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 18th, 2012 at 07:22 AM |
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my air flow metere is about 1 1/2 foot away from the throttle body , I used rubber hose and 2 1/2 exhaust pipe.
to extend it.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 18th, 2012 at 09:47 AM |
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11CAB, with the fitting of the Subaru gearbox the motor ends up higher, and because the back panel ("firewall") of the buggy is on an angle, the
higher you go the less room you get. As it is, the gearbox is not really as far forward as it should be, and so when I put in Subarugears new nose and
cradle mount I will have even less room. I dont think I have ever had full throttle because of the angle of the position of the throttle body in
relation to where the accelerator cable comes through.
On the motor that was in the buggy, I had to cut the back off the reverse manifold to get it to fit.
So as you can see I have to make some more radical changes if I want the motor to move further forward.
Thanks Joel, that makes more sense.
That is a good point Ian, there is no need to have the AFM right with the throttle body, they aren't on an original Subaru setup. However, it would
only help me if I could turn the pipe 180 degrees and have the AFM and air filter over on the left side of the motor. I am not sure I have enough room
to do the 180 turn though. I will investigate how much room the 2 1/2 inch pipe will take to do the turn.
Thanks to everyone for giving me ideas, it is very helpful.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Joel
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| posted on October 18th, 2012 at 11:40 AM |
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Hi Mark,
Is not wanting your filter behind the wheel an asthetic thing or are you worried about the tyre throwing crap at the filter?
If its the latter what I've done with mine is got a Pod filter that is enclosed and ducted fresh air to it via flexible hose.
It's also nice and compact which may give you abit more room to play.
I can get better pic next time I'm near the bug.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 18th, 2012 at 11:49 AM |
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Hi Joel, no its not an asthetic thing as it wont be seen, it is to do with dirt being thrown straight at it and also I have a bar coming down from the
back of the rollbar that holds up the rear cage, making it a pretty small space to get something through. I dont have a photo to show what I mean.
What type (brand) of enclosed filter is that you have ? I looked at the K&N ones and they are pretty baulky. I would also think it would stop the
sucking noise that you get from the exposed pod filters.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Subarugears
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| posted on October 18th, 2012 at 11:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by BlueV2
Because he is missing something that every car and buggy should have, the A/C compressor.
The issue is not the alternator, the issue is that when you flip the inlet manifold around it hits the A/C compressor and wont bolt down.
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What about trying these late model STi manifolds?
Note the small plenum chamber which gets your throttle body (and therefore AFM) closer to the middle of the engine. The angle of it also tilts the
throttle body and AFM over the top of your alternator so you would likely not need to flip it.
Where and how much is hitting the Aircon compressor? You can purchase phenolic spacers for the inlet manifolds that go between the intake ports and
manifold. They will raise your intake manifold up 20mm.
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 18th, 2012 at 12:10 PM |
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That manifold would be good, but not sure how easy that could be made to work with my engine. It might be easy, I dont know.
The A/C stops the manifold from swinging around enough for the ports to line up. It is out by about 20 or 30mm, and I dont think raising the inlet
manifold would help.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 19th, 2012 at 10:46 AM |
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Joel's picture got me thinking that maybe I should approach this differently, just for now until I get the gearbox and motor sitting where they
should be.
So I am going to get one of these and put the Pod back over the other side of the motor where there is more room. Not sure what it will do for the
airflow, but for now it wont matter.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Subarugears
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| posted on October 19th, 2012 at 02:39 PM |
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Adds 5hp. Put a Subarugears sticker on your windscreen - adds another 5hp.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on October 19th, 2012 at 02:44 PM |
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Paint something red, specifically callipers, extra 25kw!
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 19th, 2012 at 02:53 PM |
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Nope.....Blue is the only colour 
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11CAB
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| posted on October 19th, 2012 at 05:17 PM |
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What stops you bolting the throttle body onto the inlet manifold in the new spot and run a rubber 90 degree bend up to the air mass meter? The brings
the air mass meter closer to the centre of the engine by the amount in the height of the throttle body
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BlueV2
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| posted on October 19th, 2012 at 07:01 PM |
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That is certainly worth looking at. I would need to make an adaptor between the inlet manifold flange and the throttle body flange ad they are not the
same size or bolt pattern.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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