Engine rebuild/renew/restoration project

Lateral · 2013-02-12T06:41:01+00:00

Hi Guys This is a new thread to document the project that I have started in order to rebuild/renew/restore the 1916cc engine in the car in order to solve the problem I had with high oil temperature. Here is the link to the old thread (http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=100629&page=1). I have just pulled the motor and stripped off all of the tinware and there is quite a bit missing that I will document over the next few days. Also, the tinware was not fitted correctly and absolutely all of the screws were either loose or finger tight....not very good. I am pretty sure also that the rear engine oil seal is leaking (see the attached photo) and the engine mounts are stuffed (see attached photo) so these will be changed as part of the project. I will also be fitting a late model engine seal to ensure a better fit of the tinware with the engine compartment. This is going to be a fun project! Regards Greg

bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 · 14 May 2013, 8:12 pm

#955678

so what caused the over heating in the original engine??

(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!

Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 14 May 2013, 8:19 pm

#955679

Hi Chris

I don't know for certain. My guess is that a few "experts" had a go at tuning and fiddling with the EFI system without perhaps fully understanding what they were doing.

Regards
Greg

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 · 14 May 2013, 9:58 pm

#955695

Congrats Greg 👍

Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 15 May 2013, 6:42 am

#955711

Thanks Craig.

All I need to do is figure out a simple way to modify the accelerator pedal so that I can get full throttle and I will be a happy boy.

Regards
Greg

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 15 May 2013, 8:17 am

#955726

Putting in a longer link won't change the travel, you'll find the travel is limited on the other side of the tunnel. The way to get full throttle is by changing the ratio of the linkages at the engine, you'll find there are options to use. Take a pic of the linkage setup as I often see them fitted incorrectly.

Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 15 May 2013, 8:40 am

#955727

Hi Matt

Will do. I'll post a couple of photos a bit later today.

Regards
Greg

Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 18 May 2013, 5:22 pm

#956099

Update:

I had a bit of a think and a checked to see how much travel I was missing both at the rear (engine) and the front (at the accelerator "lever" that the linkage attaches to in the pedal cluster).

Using the standard linkage I was missing out on about 25mm of travel at the "lever". So, I was originally going to simply lengthen the existing solid linkage by the required 25 mm but I tracked down a small stainless steel carby linkage from Rocket Industries (see attached photo) for $19.00 (bargain!)

I attached the new linkage, wounded it out, locked it and job done!

At the rear, the carby's are now about 5 mm from full open when the accelerator pedal is pressed down.

I took the car for a long drive today from Sydney to Gosford up the Freeway and it went like a rocket!

I'm also getting some small Heim/Rose rod ends to test them to see if they work any differently/better. I'll keep you updated.

Regards
Greg

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Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 26 May 2013, 3:14 pm

#957139

Hi guys

I went to Linear Bearings (www.linearbearings.com.au/) and bought 2 different types of Heim/Rose Rod Ends.

One type had a stud attached and the other required a bolt to fit the rod end.

I decided to use the stud version and replaced the stainless throttle linkage that I had previously installed as the black spring clip that holds the ball socket together came off....not good.

Anyway, here is how the new setup looks.

Regards
Greg

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