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pre purchase advice

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redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#980202
Hi All,

After about 10 years in the darkness driving auto modern cars I've managed to wrangle some cash for a second car and it is going to be a beetle.

Looking for some advice on which year model/suspension/engine choice is going to be best. my previous beetle was a 1962 Deluxe which was nice but I'm after a bit more performance this time around.

The plan is to buy one that is registered and usable as a daily driver and as I slowly collect funds improve it over time. The aim is to have something that is still a daily driver but can stick with more modern cars on some twisty roads.

I'm not too fussed on how it looks to start with so will be focussed on improving suspension and braking first, engine second then doing the cosmetic stuff.

was thinking 1972 Super could be the go but keen to hear what you experts think.

Mick
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Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#980205
I would choose a 1975 rack and pinion L bug

Has all the good gear
1600
IRS
Disc brakes
High back seats
Dual brake circuits
Etc etc

In addition. They are cheap as compared to an oval and such

Add a set of struts, bushing kit , decent tyres and maybe dual carbs and exhaust and you will have a great handling car.
Futue te ipsum!!!

bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·

#980206
anything 1500 series onwards if you are after more hp and revised suspension/brakes. Superbugs had disks and struts, 1500 series only recieved disks in semi auto models but had the old skool shape.

All are prone to rust, that'll be the big thing to watch.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!

redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#980208
thanks for the quick responses guys.

bizarre, how much extra hp would a dual carb set-up likely deliver?

would love an oval sitting on a 2332cc and porsche rims. only two things standing in the way of that
1. a mortgage
2. domestic happiness!
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redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#980209
bajachriss88 - I know the usual places to look for rust in the early model bugs (heater channels, under battery, spare wheel well, around windows etc).

Are there any extra places that post 1500's have?

e.g I've always been a bit suspicious of the air vents behind the windows and maybe letting water in behind the rear seat.
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Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#980213
bajachris88 wrote:1500 series only recieved disks in semi auto models
1500 manuals had discs as well, it was just IRS the semi autos had over them.
The 70s 1300s were drum but that is easy enough to change.

With the 71 and later bugs the main area to watch for rust is the death foam area.

VW trying to meet cabin noise levels shot expanding foam up into the rear pillars.
It works for that purpose but it also traps moisture in there and they rust from the inside out so by the time you see small rust spots like this on the outside its a total mess on the inside.

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68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#980217
Yes Joel

usually by the time it gets to that [in Your pics]

all the end of the rain gutter and next to the rear window could be very rusted too...

LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#980927
Thanks guys, I've already been able to scrub a few potential bugs off my 'to see' list - a couple because of that rust issue and a couple because they aren't the right age.

Sounds like I should be keeping my attention on curved windscreen, wide bonnet bugs. Discs, struts and IRS sound like a good starting foundation for the handling. I could then beef up the 1500/1600 to get more hp and look at a new gearbox to cruise better on the highway, perhaps a porsche 'box - Live in South West Sydney so the freeway to the City and to Southern Highlands gets a bit of a workout.

Would love to end up with something like the Salzburg Rallye beetles...

http://www.salzburgkaefer.at/images/scannen0029_600.jpg
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AA003 Custom Title Time!

1,189 posts · joined Oct 2011 ·

#980937
'76 is my favourite. Lighter weight, IRS and discs.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.

Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!😂

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#981067
strut bug, I like struts 😏

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#981080
ok... so it sounds like Discs, struts and IRS are 'must have's' I'f I'm going to do slight mods to improve handling/suspension.

Helbus, do 1971 bug's have flat windscreen and wide bonnet? wikipedia and other interweb places have different info on this. Have to say I'd prefer flat screen if I could get it somehow with Discs, struts and IRS (without having to chop too much of the original car to pieces 😉)
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vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#981114
The 1302 which I think is what hellbus is saying is all the goodies but older style with flat windscreen?

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

AA003 Custom Title Time!

1,189 posts · joined Oct 2011 ·

#981133
'71s could be either struts (with discs) or torsion bars (with drums unless replaced). All '71s had flat windscreens. All of the strut models had the big fat ugly long bonnet and the torsion bar models had the sleek stylish nice looking bonnet.

Don't read overseas web sites as Australia was different.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.

Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!😂

helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body

7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#981138
Our current '71 is a 1302 'S' model, which is the 1600 twin port, strut, IRS, disc etc drivetrain, and we have the flat screen, steel dash, no headrests on seats, so body looks older.

Our first Beetle was a '70 1300 'Standard' model, and it was 1300 engine, beam front, swing axle rear, drums all round

The 1303 'L' model has the padded dash and a curved front screen and a short bonnet.

You must read the Australian info to get the right info, as Beetles have been different all around the world at different times.

Joel wrote a good article here

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=97238
EJ22 into Bay Microbus - Finished project build thread- click on this spot here for info

redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#981162
Starting to sound like '71 and '72 S bugs are the models I should be looking at. flat screen, steel dash, discs, struts, IRS and 1600 twin port.

that's a great article Joel wrote about variants.

Bizarre suggested bushing kit, decent tyres and maybe dual carbs as first mods. I thought a set of Bilsteins, drop the front end and perhaps upgrade brakelines and cylinders would be other first steps to get the bug planted, cornering and stopping.

Not going to be a competition car but do want it to be fun and stick to the road on the twisty stuff.

Interested on everyone's thoughts on first mods for the suspension that I should be budgeting for before I buy.
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vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#981251
if you do get a bug with struts, Can I suggest these.

http://superpro.com.au/find-superpro-parts-for-my-vehicle/vehiclelookup/VOLKSWAGEN-Beetle-Superbug/71-166-1572

best bush manufacture on the market imho. I used them on all my cars now. Best single investment on the suspension system. Makes a massive difference in handling and road feel without even touching the other parts, in combo with other upgrades they all help each other out to get the best of handling.


The best bit about these bushes is they last ages. Still running a set with close to 200k and 4 years of hard country abuse and still handling way better than stock bushes, not one has cracked yet either, I doubt they will anytime soon.

Good luck with your search. 👍

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#981254
Topline in California have the Super Beetle suspension market cornered.
You can get everything you need from them, the Urethane bushings he sells are top notch.

They are still perfect in my car after all these years on these roads round here.

coletrickle Wolfsburg Wizard

661 posts · joined Apr 2009 ·

#981262
all the above posts are good things to consider but,I think personally anything late model that has been repainted is likely to end your marital bliss!unless you can see documented body work you may find out at your expense that shiny is usually shit.Id be looking for some kind of orignal paint car buy and modify that.Doesnt matter any bug can be made to go stop and handle.If you car to look at the lap times for the vw nationals 2013 and check out the lap times of matt berrys blue 58,kl-swinger 2007cc mtor, pretty impressive for what it isnt or embarrasing for the bugs with "all the cool shit" you decideand check out daimo pell "the grouch"both awesome cars in my book.But if hou do lots and i mean lots of home work you may end upwith what you want but my advice is pay to have the vehical totally inspected by a beetle nazi,you want to have a very indepth inspection of any bug lots can be missed in a general roadworth inspection..Buyef beware.Happy hunting and good luck.

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#981277
some sound advice there^

go buy yourself a paint thickness gauge and go hacks. You will quickly pickup on multiple paint layers and bog with one.

You are better off concentrating on an original condition bug that has not been painted or at least isolated to panels and guards and doors.

original with some rust is better than bogged up shiny POS with chicken wire and expander-foam.

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

redubber Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Sep 2010 ·

#981306
coletrickle wrote:all the above posts are good things to consider but,I think personally anything late model that has been repainted is likely to end your marital bliss!unless you can see documented body work you may find out at your expense that shiny is usually shit.Id be looking for some kind of orignal paint car buy and modify that.Doesnt matter any bug can be made to go stop and handle.If you car to look at the lap times for the vw nationals 2013 and check out the lap times of matt berrys blue 58,kl-swinger 2007cc mtor, pretty impressive for what it isnt or embarrasing for the bugs with "all the cool shit" you decideand check out daimo pell "the grouch"both awesome cars in my book.But if hou do lots and i mean lots of home work you may end upwith what you want but my advice is pay to have the vehical totally inspected by a beetle nazi,you want to have a very indepth inspection of any bug lots can be missed in a general roadworth inspection..Buyef beware.Happy hunting and good luck.
Thanks, great advice... am definitely going to go for as original a car as I can find. Hoping to avoid orange as I won't have the dosh for a body off paint job for a while but will take what i can find once i've researched enough to make a decision.

Ultimately, a solid car that I can sort the running gear on and paint at a later stage is what I'll be after. Won't be going for a rat-look but a bit scruffy is fine.

In fact, scruffy would be fun - disappearing around some bends with a boy racer in a rice burner in the rear view mirror of my scruffy bug sounds like fun to me. 😂
Es läuft und läuft und läuft

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#981398
redubber wrote:
coletrickle wrote:all the above posts are good things to consider but,I think personally anything late model that has been repainted is likely to end your marital bliss!unless you can see documented body work you may find out at your expense that shiny is usually shit.Id be looking for some kind of orignal paint car buy and modify that.Doesnt matter any bug can be made to go stop and handle.If you car to look at the lap times for the vw nationals 2013 and check out the lap times of matt berrys blue 58,kl-swinger 2007cc mtor, pretty impressive for what it isnt or embarrasing for the bugs with "all the cool shit" you decideand check out daimo pell "the grouch"both awesome cars in my book.But if hou do lots and i mean lots of home work you may end upwith what you want but my advice is pay to have the vehical totally inspected by a beetle nazi,you want to have a very indepth inspection of any bug lots can be missed in a general roadworth inspection..Buyef beware.Happy hunting and good luck.
Thanks, great advice... am definitely going to go for as original a car as I can find. Hoping to avoid orange as I won't have the dosh for a body off paint job for a while but will take what i can find once i've researched enough to make a decision.

Ultimately, a solid car that I can sort the running gear on and paint at a later stage is what I'll be after. Won't be going for a rat-look but a bit scruffy is fine.

In fact, scruffy would be fun - disappearing around some bends with a boy racer in a rice burner in the rear view mirror of my scruffy bug sounds like fun to me. 😂
driving a worn out tired looking car that is mechanically better than stock, really does piss off some of the yuppies 😂

I personalty love beating yuppies around roundabouts and corners with their flash mercs and altise thingos 😂

I haven't come across too many ricers though, ricers are more of a NSW thing I noticed.

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE