I have $5000 to build a new motor and not sure where to start?
Im running a 1600 twin port atm and would like to go 2ltr ish.
Ive done a lot of reading of old post and still can't make up my mind?
Any ones help would be great.. Something strong with some grunt!
Subaru wrx turbo engine 225HP conversation for beetle. Car not for sale. Selling engine and all parts to conversion. Can inspect in car. $2700 Hunter valley
Firstly is the question of whether you wish to stay aircooled and VW or go watercooled?
The Subaru EJ motors are very reliable and give you 130bhp straight off the bat. If you buy an entire donor car you can have the engine, loom and ECU for around a grand. Breakers will charge you over $2k. radiator is straight forward and is some fairly simple fabrication in the bonnets wheel well. So can easily be done for under $5k if you can do the work yourself. $5k may cover the cost of a grage doing the work for you.
Staying aircooled. Well the T4 lumps are generally stronger units and come as std in 1.8-2.0L sizing. However, T4 parts are much more expensive than T1 and there is much debate over the flow capabilities of the T4 cyl heads. Still if you can do most the work yourself then $5k will get you a strong motor.
T1 costs come down to machining of the case for larger barrels plus full flow oil galleries and 8 dowelling the f/wheel. for really big motor shuffle pinning the case is a must. A quality brand CW stroker crank will already be 8 dowelled. Then you have the choice of cylinder heads and the cost too. Heads are expensive. Cams are relatively cheap and must match how you wish to use the motor aswell as the heads and carbs to be used.
then you have carbs that are darned expensive and a python exhaust is a must for best power IMO.
Altogether $5k will net you a reliable 1915cc motor with carbs and exhaust. A good 1915 should see 120bhp easily at the f/wheel 🙂
My problem here is that you have $5000 for an engine. What about brakes, suspension, gearbox & tires?
But as ADR states you can increase the motor by x amount without any change to the susp/brakes yet if you change the type of motor then the susp/brakes have to be equal to the vehicle the engine came from. 🙂
Been awhile since I read the ADR regarding that due to wanting to do a subie transplant but think I remembered correctly.
I think you require a disc brake conversion when you put a 1600 into a early car, if it is a late car it will already have it, are you capable of doing all the work yourself, if not a lot of your budget will be eaten up in labour, will you be using your engine as a donor if you go air cooled, Subaru is a good conversion but requires a lot of work to do it properly.
There's more to building an engine than just putting the parts together out of the box.
Nothing fits, there's alot of machine work to factor in, balancing etc...
ill let Rod answer that question, SPLAT the 1915cc is a nice size and doable for $5K depending on what's included, you will need to use a lot of good quality stock parts.
Biggest Question is "What car is the engine going in?
And then another 4k for the Quaif equipped built trans.
The thing is, you want all the ancilleries as well as an engine, carbs, exhaust, oil system, cooling system improvements, tranny mounts tc etc. so in reality, for 5k you get a stock rebuild. You might find one for 3, a top line stock can go to 7. Starting with nothing, 100rwhp can be had for 6-12 depending on quality of build and parts.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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matberry wrote:And then another 4k for the Quaif equipped built trans.
The thing is, you want all the ancilleries as well as an engine, carbs, exhaust, oil system, cooling system improvements, tranny mounts tc etc. so in reality, for 5k you get a stock rebuild. You might find one for 3, a top line stock can go to 7. Starting with nothing, 100rwhp can be had for 6-12 depending on quality of build and parts.
Ah but Matt. How much would it be if you could build it yourself? And had all the parts and machined bits ready to go?
psimitar wrote:Ah but Matt. How much would it be if you could build it yourself? And had all the parts and machined bits ready to go?
Ahh, a trick question. Nothing.
Do it yourself and you got all the parts ready to go. 😂
I remember doing a recon on my 1200 cost about a $800 in parts and machining and the only machining required was the crank @ $140 and flywheel. then re-con heads $450, new rings and gasket set.
