We have purchased this 72 Low light Single cab to restore and use as a daily driver around town.
My wife, Bronnie, wants to personalise it for her use with a canoe etc, so no alloy chequerplate allowed.
Currently hand painted with hammertone silver.
It appears to have been Niagra Blue so that will be the colour.
It has no motor or box.
I have a T2 auto that I would like to fit to it.
Do they bolt straight in?
Any thoughts or knowledge welcome.
Does anyone have a T2 Auto Shifter complete with cable for sale?
Thanks in advance.
As you probably know Graeme, the autos didnt come in till 73.
However, if you have all the parts I am sure they could be installed with some minor extra repairs.
Looks like a great base though as it appears to have already had the front panel replaced although the front indicators seem to have been lost in the process.
88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
89 Caravelle GL microbus - 5 speed
69 Microbus
05 Mk5 Golf 1.9 TDi DSG
Yes, thank you, it is a good base with no rust that I can see yet.
I will pull out the windscreen and the dash to check though.
Hoping to hear from someone that has converted to auto.
Definitely need the auto shifter and cable from someone somewhere.
It has had a new front recently, hence no blinkers. Wondering whether to put originals or perhaps something in LED in same place.
Put some in the bumper.
Mitchell
23 windows ...8 too many!
Looks good Graeme, I bet the Tristar hardly noticed it on the back.
x2 for indicators in the bumper
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Good pick up Graeme - I was interested in that myself so am saddened to hear its not some old rusty ute that I missed out on..
Cheers
VW Toys
64 Beetle - club car - Herbie
RSK 718 Porsche Spyder
76 Southern Cross Offroad racing buggy. "Manx Buggies"
77 Cobra Offroad racing buggy "RipOff"
68 Country Buggy KO200
64 Manx swb
70 Dual Cab kombi
74 Dual Cab kombi
74 Micro bus
Pressure cleaned the whole ute. Very tidy underneath with front and rear suspension looking great after 43 years of grease and dirt removed.
Mostly stripped now and pleased to find no rust in the windscreen area
Took the dash out just to make sure there were no rust surprises.
All good there.
About 50 hours of sanding, dozens of sanding papers and probable a case of rum, all the hammer tone paint has been removed.
Door gaps need attention, then will pull the doors off.
The rear tray will now be sanded back. It looks sound but has the markings of 40+years as probably a builder's ute with spilt paint, concrete, glue etc all over it.
Also thinking about changing the rear tail lights to something a bit older looking as these were the first of the tall modern ones and not, in my opinion, in keeping with the older style rounded bumper bars.
Nice project! Keep us updated! 👍😏
Decided to change the taillights to something different so first step was to cut out the old molded section.
this will be kept in case I have a guilt conscience in the future and change it back again.
New metal tacked in.
Both mig'ed in and ground back
Now looking for inspiration for what to put there.
i am thinking of smaller round LED lights, either 3 smaller ones on each side or 1x 3-in-one on each side.
Time to shop on Ebay.
Looking good Graeme. Can't wait to see the finished product.
DUBS BY THE RIVER 2021 Morgan SA - Sept 18-19 2021
Currently suffering from delusions of sanity!
That's a good score.I was thinking that if I ever got a ute like yours,I would also fit an auto - but would use a shifter from a Type 3 and mount it up between the seats.It's easy to run a cable down from there and go under the vehicle.Better looking and easier to use than the OG Bus shifter mounted on the floor.Food for thought.
Yes, not a bad thought as I was having trouble finding a T2 auto shifter.
VVDS came up with one only yesterday so will go that way.
Also want to use original bucket/bench combination for old skool look.
Spent all day today on it but only one day per week so slow but steady progress.
Rear end starting to take shape now.
Those phillip head screws on the engind lid hinge to the body are tough buggers to get out. Had to heat them with the oxy till they were glowing red hot, then they just came out easily.
Treasure chest screws were same deal, but all out now.
Straightened up the outside and welded a few of the spot welds inside the lid and the etch primed it both sides.
I need the inside and outside lock and handle for this treasure chest door.
Anyone got one?
First proper inspection of the treasure chest, no rust just old paint.
Not looking forward to trying to sand it back.
It may get less attention and more covering perhaps with timber or similar.
Certainly glad not to be welding anything in there.
Is that your fuel tank looking a touch holey there ❓
More progress today, doors off and final straightening of the front panel.
Found rust under the drivers seat where water would sit so cut out the offending area.
Folded and rolled a replacement
Welded and ground, now like a bought one again, almost.
Etch primer now going on
I had bought a a complete engine on Ebay that was stated as 'running when it was pulled out'.
I hooked it up on the workshop floor and tried to start it only to find it wouldn't turn over.
This is what it looked like when I pulled the tin ware off.
This is why it wouldn't turn over.
I reported it back through Ebay and to the seller's credit, a refund was made. Lucky me this time.
