clyve Officially Full-On Dubber
310 posts · joined Feb 2011 ·
ok vw gods any tips for running a new engine including first start up etc all help welcome cheers
running in
Culo Casual Dubber
31 posts · joined Jan 2013 ·
Hello crank it over for about 10-15 seconds with the coul disconnected to first build up oil pressure then plug it back in and start it up rev it up moderately to seal the rings etc.
This is a very basic overview from bugme video boys search them on u tube.
This is a very basic overview from bugme video boys search them on u tube.
bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6
6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·
You got a brand new cam?
Definitely consult the manufacturer's instructions for cam break-in on your first run to work harden the lobe surfaces. From memory (haven't got SCAT can instructions in front of me), it was like rev the engine to 3000 rpm for a duration of time on first start (15 mins i think it was).
Did a google for ya anyways, and this looks awesome and thorough for 'break in' instructions:
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-engine-break-in-procedure/
Definitely consult the manufacturer's instructions for cam break-in on your first run to work harden the lobe surfaces. From memory (haven't got SCAT can instructions in front of me), it was like rev the engine to 3000 rpm for a duration of time on first start (15 mins i think it was).
Did a google for ya anyways, and this looks awesome and thorough for 'break in' instructions:
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-engine-break-in-procedure/
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk
2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·
Is it a standard engine, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over until you have oil pressure, you will achieve oil pressure sooner with the plugs removed, also fill the float bowl with fuel before you go for a start so you are not cranking the engine over a lot just getting fuel to the float bowl, if you have a modified engine and you have double valve springs, I always remove the inners for the cam break inn and refit them after , Run the engine as per the cam manufactures recommendation then reset the tappets, if you have a spin filter use a better quality filter like a K&N as these are about 5 microns, A lot of people change the oil after the break inn period but I do not, I generally run it for about 100k's, as long as the filtration is good. I use a good quality break in oil with high zinc content, Penrite make a good one and use it on all my engines, even add a zinc additive for the break in period.
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
I know our bus being a Subaru engine is a bit different, however I was given the following instructions. As it did not have a new cam, I just had to use running in oil as it has no friction modifiers added this enables the rings to bed in. I did 500km with continuous changes in load, and the best way for me was driving through the mountain ranges East of Melbourne. Low speed in higher gears, and changing engine speed and load. Keeping the revs at a reasonable level, which to the Subaru is under 4000 rpm (they have 6800 rev limiter, so this is reasonable). After 500km changed the oil and filter
With my Holden engine, as it was a new cam, it had running in oil, and was run at 2500-3000 rpm for 20 minutes. I then did 500km at various gear changes and loads. Then changed the oil and filter.
With my Holden engine, as it was a new cam, it had running in oil, and was run at 2500-3000 rpm for 20 minutes. I then did 500km at various gear changes and loads. Then changed the oil and filter.
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
hellbus has got it. It varies a bit depending on cam type and material. roller, flat tappet, OHC with roller or buckets etc... steel or cast etc...
dont run it too rich during this period, lean is fine in this light load steady medium revs and is actually good for it as it allows the rings to start to bed in properly. too rich and you wash the oil on the bores and glaze the bores in minutes of running too rich.
also important is to change the oil after this 20min on average cam break in period, with new break in oil of course.
dont run it too rich during this period, lean is fine in this light load steady medium revs and is actually good for it as it allows the rings to start to bed in properly. too rich and you wash the oil on the bores and glaze the bores in minutes of running too rich.
also important is to change the oil after this 20min on average cam break in period, with new break in oil of course.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk
2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·
Disagree about the oil if you have good filtration, waste of money. vary the load with short periods of high load to bed the rings, to light a load and run the risk of glazing the bore.
fish26 Fahrvergnugen
903 posts · joined Jul 2007 ·
Changing oil is your cheapest insurance not to mention the information you get from the old oil, I usually send mine for analysis.
Have broken engines in with and without duals and one time installed it and went for a hard drive as the break in, that engine is still alive. I always allow the engine to get full oil pressure without pushrods before start up and use nothing but the best quality oil containing high Zinc/Phosphorus content e.g. Bradd Penn Break In Green Oil W30 also extensively lubing up moving/friction internal parts. I also disassemble the engine after Rocker Geometry set up to re-lube.
Below is a comprehensive guide to Engine Break In courtesy of John @ Aircooled.net
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-engine-break-in-procedure/
Have broken engines in with and without duals and one time installed it and went for a hard drive as the break in, that engine is still alive. I always allow the engine to get full oil pressure without pushrods before start up and use nothing but the best quality oil containing high Zinc/Phosphorus content e.g. Bradd Penn Break In Green Oil W30 also extensively lubing up moving/friction internal parts. I also disassemble the engine after Rocker Geometry set up to re-lube.
Below is a comprehensive guide to Engine Break In courtesy of John @ Aircooled.net
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-engine-break-in-procedure/
bitten by the bug..........several times
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
Of course you need to change the oil immediately after initial run in as the oil will be contaminated with assembly lube and petroleum jelly from packing the oil pump etc.., also small amounts of chemicals from sealants curing process depending on what is used.
Those can all be detected in UOAs
Those can all be detected in UOAs
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk
2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·
Why would you have petroleum jelly in the oil for the oil pump, just prime it before you start it, as I said a good quality filter looks after it.
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
thats how you prime the oil pump. Sometime engines take months even years to build so using oil it will be totally seep and dry out by then when trying to prime it the first time. I had huge dramas trying to prime a new engine that sat for 12 years. So much f**king around. I ended up making a thing to pressurize oil backwards down the galley to flush air out of the pump into the sump. I reckon I spent over an hour cranking trying to get oil to flow with no luck until I tried that.vwo60 wrote:Why would you have petroleum jelly in the oil for the oil pump, just prime it before you start it, as I said a good quality filter looks after it.
petroleum jelly will stay there until ready. filter does not stop assembly lube or jelly as they dissolve into the oil and can and likely do effect the chemistry of the oil. The chemistry of the oil IS! everything to how oil works. So you want to get rid of the oil a quick as possible after the initial run in.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE