KalgoorlieGreg Seriously Crusin Dubber
196 posts · joined Aug 2016 ·
Would the rear half cut be better for your needs? It's just as easy for me to do the rear half cut as it is to unbolt everything.
WRX + 5speed into 62 Beetle
adlbeetle66 Under the car.........again!
1,476 posts · joined Aug 2014 ·
I'm watching closely mate... that wrap looks a million bucks 👍
karmann141 Wolfsburg Wizard
485 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·
Almost 1500 views, people are definitely watching. You have some great skills, attention to detail and thinking outside the square.maloo wrote:Thanks Karmann
I am happy that people are watching as there are not many comments.
As far as the IRS is going no money and no parts!
I am also looking to borrow/buy an IRS jig so I can weld in the pivot boxes that I got from Brad at Subistuff.
cheers
Mark
As far as the IRS goes - Not Cool🙅 This is a relatively small community and I can assure you it hasn't gone unnoticed.
Keep up the great work
1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
vduboy Insano Dub Head
702 posts · joined Oct 2012 ·
Does anyone know him? maybe he died.. Or really sick? It would be nice if we didn't have to add another name to the list of shonky people in this community.. I have some axles and cv's off my semi-auto that I don't want much for if you need them?
It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi Vduboy
Thanks for the offer but I have the axles and CV joints
Cheers
Mark
Thanks for the offer but I have the axles and CV joints
Cheers
Mark
steveo169 Commited Dubber
68 posts · joined Nov 2008 ·
awesome effort to date.
nice to know there is some local knowledge about this.
keep up the efforts and I hope you resolve the outstanding issue.
Cheers
steve
nice to know there is some local knowledge about this.
keep up the efforts and I hope you resolve the outstanding issue.
Cheers
steve
Dannyred Casual Dubber
25 posts · joined Jul 2012 ·
Great video and much needed! Can I ask what gearbox code did you start with? If I end up doing this myself I'd rather start off with the same gearbox too!
Cheers
Cheers
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi Danny
A standard TY754 WRX 2002 5 speed.
Cheers
Mark
A standard TY754 WRX 2002 5 speed.
Cheers
Mark
nils Fahrvergnugen
971 posts · joined Jan 2008 ·
Hi Mark,
I made a IRS jig back in the day, was pretty ghetto but did what it was suppose to do.
When I was finished with it it was passed around the VW community. Last record I have of it (2009) were AVD forum users psimitar (Mike) and then 1916baja (Mick)
Try sending those blokes a PM maybe you'll track it down, and tell them they owe me a 6pack plus 7years interest 😂
I made a IRS jig back in the day, was pretty ghetto but did what it was suppose to do.
When I was finished with it it was passed around the VW community. Last record I have of it (2009) were AVD forum users psimitar (Mike) and then 1916baja (Mick)
Try sending those blokes a PM maybe you'll track it down, and tell them they owe me a 6pack plus 7years interest 😂
Quit calling rust patina
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi Nils
Thanks for the assistance.
Paul from DownSouth Motor Sports has contacted me and he has a jig in stock.
So all good now.
cheers
Mark
Thanks for the assistance.
Paul from DownSouth Motor Sports has contacted me and he has a jig in stock.
So all good now.
cheers
Mark
vduboy Insano Dub Head
702 posts · joined Oct 2012 ·
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=112097 Have you seen this one for your IRS bits mate?
It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
I have located a jig to weld in my pivot boxes and hopefully I will be able to load up some pics of what is required in the next couple of weeks.
I have still had no luck with my IRS kit (not answer my email/texts) so I have got a Solicitor involved and sent him a pending legal action document.
Well he did answer an email after I advised him of the pending legal action but it was abusive and due to that I could not post it.
Anyway thank you to the forum members who have contacted me and have offered me the parts I need in order to continue the build.
In the mean time I have almost finished my fuel cell. I need the fittings for the braided lines and the radiator hoses still have to be installed. You can see the hole next to the fuel lines where the radiator hose will come through. I have also enclosed the rest of the bonnet with vinyl wrapped aluminium sheeting. I made it in a few pieces so it is easy to get off for future maintenance and fiddling!
I have put the engine in temporarily by using the SubaruGears engine mount. It fitted an absolute treat and no cutting of the body is needed as the engine sits 75mm lower than standard. If it was higher you would need to cut holes in the deck lid for the cam covers.
What you cant see is behind the engine. But it has 450mm of open space from the flywheel to the back of the bay. Heaps of room!
You can also see how close the water line is to the body. I will get a 90dg hose and cut the body a bit so it can move easily.
Hopefully Rear suspension and gearbox install next
Thanks for looking
cheers
Mark
I have located a jig to weld in my pivot boxes and hopefully I will be able to load up some pics of what is required in the next couple of weeks.
I have still had no luck with my IRS kit (not answer my email/texts) so I have got a Solicitor involved and sent him a pending legal action document.
Well he did answer an email after I advised him of the pending legal action but it was abusive and due to that I could not post it.
Anyway thank you to the forum members who have contacted me and have offered me the parts I need in order to continue the build.
In the mean time I have almost finished my fuel cell. I need the fittings for the braided lines and the radiator hoses still have to be installed. You can see the hole next to the fuel lines where the radiator hose will come through. I have also enclosed the rest of the bonnet with vinyl wrapped aluminium sheeting. I made it in a few pieces so it is easy to get off for future maintenance and fiddling!
I have put the engine in temporarily by using the SubaruGears engine mount. It fitted an absolute treat and no cutting of the body is needed as the engine sits 75mm lower than standard. If it was higher you would need to cut holes in the deck lid for the cam covers.
What you cant see is behind the engine. But it has 450mm of open space from the flywheel to the back of the bay. Heaps of room!
You can also see how close the water line is to the body. I will get a 90dg hose and cut the body a bit so it can move easily.
Hopefully Rear suspension and gearbox install next
Thanks for looking
cheers
Mark
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johnharte Casual Dubber
26 posts · joined May 2010 ·
Hi Mark,
Thanks for sharing, just read through the 2 pages!! Mammoth effort and I tip my hat to you!
John
Thanks for sharing, just read through the 2 pages!! Mammoth effort and I tip my hat to you!
John
KalgoorlieGreg Seriously Crusin Dubber
196 posts · joined Aug 2016 ·
Highlight the bits you need and I'll get them out asap for you! The rain stopped and the young fella has been helping me.
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KalgoorlieGreg Seriously Crusin Dubber
196 posts · joined Aug 2016 ·
A better view.
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maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
Well the time is almost over (22nd Feb) since a solicitor drafted up the letter of demand on the 1st of February for a refund of the money paid on the 31st of July last year for a rebuilt IRS. That's almost 8 months waiting!!!!
Anyway I do not believe for 1 second that I will have the money returned nor the items delivered by that time.
Anyway that disgrace of business I will leave it to the Court to proceed in its process.
I would like to thank all of you who have also attempted to assist in getting him to complete it as promised.
NOW GOOD NEWS!
The good news is that Greg from Kalgoorlie has removed the IRS from his beetle (as posted above) and has arranged shipping for today!
I also received the IRS jig today from Paul at Down South Motorsports. Which means with picking up my IRS tonight and having the jig it should all come together now yeeee haaa!
I have also started on the exhaust which is pretty tricky as there is not much space! I am waiting for a 75mm donut so I can make the 75mm pipe. However to do it right the first time I need to have the rear suspension in so I can place it above the axle and near the inner wheelwell with enough space so that it does not hit it. At the moment I have just used a broom handle as an approximate location but the trailing arm is a lot thicker and space hungry!
Great to be able to continue my build as the 8 months on jack stands is now over!!!
cheers
Mark
Well the time is almost over (22nd Feb) since a solicitor drafted up the letter of demand on the 1st of February for a refund of the money paid on the 31st of July last year for a rebuilt IRS. That's almost 8 months waiting!!!!
Anyway I do not believe for 1 second that I will have the money returned nor the items delivered by that time.
Anyway that disgrace of business I will leave it to the Court to proceed in its process.
I would like to thank all of you who have also attempted to assist in getting him to complete it as promised.
NOW GOOD NEWS!
The good news is that Greg from Kalgoorlie has removed the IRS from his beetle (as posted above) and has arranged shipping for today!
I also received the IRS jig today from Paul at Down South Motorsports. Which means with picking up my IRS tonight and having the jig it should all come together now yeeee haaa!
I have also started on the exhaust which is pretty tricky as there is not much space! I am waiting for a 75mm donut so I can make the 75mm pipe. However to do it right the first time I need to have the rear suspension in so I can place it above the axle and near the inner wheelwell with enough space so that it does not hit it. At the moment I have just used a broom handle as an approximate location but the trailing arm is a lot thicker and space hungry!
Great to be able to continue my build as the 8 months on jack stands is now over!!!
cheers
Mark
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maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
Today I have nearly finished one side of the conversion to IRS. The Trailing Arms etc came from a 1973 Beetle. I have painted the spring plates and trailing arms and just waiting for it to dry before putting them in!
It is a bit tricky to cut out the frame horns with the car on axle stands and the body in place. There is not much room to cut or weld. I used a 125mm thin stainless cut off disc to do most of the work as well as a standard flap disc to finish it off.
Welding was a bit cumbersome but you can definitely do it. I only say this as I have read on other forums that you cant do it with the body on. Well yes you can!
I intended to take the engine out to do it as well but in the end I left it in with no problems at all.
The handbrake cable tube that runs in the frame horns gets right in the way and prevents the pivot box from going where it needs to be. I ended up cutting a longer slot in the horn and bending the tube in a dog leg and out of the way. If you do this conversion you will know exactly what I mean!
I was quite surprised as the pivot box goes about 20mm inside the frame horn but you can weld it on the inside of the pivot box itself. I welded all 4 sides of the pivot box on
the inside as well as 3 on the outside top, bottom and one side..
The welds wont win any competition for beauty but I am confident that they are strong welds.
I thought it would take a lot longer than it has (4hrs) but once you have cut the hole and bolted the pivot box on to the jig all you have to do is weld it in and your finished.
So if you are hesitant about doing it don't be as with the jig it is not possible to stuff it up and weld it in the wrong place. If you can weld you can do it no problems.
There is very little information on the net that tells you what to do and hopefully this will help you in the right direction.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
Mark
Today I have nearly finished one side of the conversion to IRS. The Trailing Arms etc came from a 1973 Beetle. I have painted the spring plates and trailing arms and just waiting for it to dry before putting them in!
It is a bit tricky to cut out the frame horns with the car on axle stands and the body in place. There is not much room to cut or weld. I used a 125mm thin stainless cut off disc to do most of the work as well as a standard flap disc to finish it off.
Welding was a bit cumbersome but you can definitely do it. I only say this as I have read on other forums that you cant do it with the body on. Well yes you can!
I intended to take the engine out to do it as well but in the end I left it in with no problems at all.
The handbrake cable tube that runs in the frame horns gets right in the way and prevents the pivot box from going where it needs to be. I ended up cutting a longer slot in the horn and bending the tube in a dog leg and out of the way. If you do this conversion you will know exactly what I mean!
I was quite surprised as the pivot box goes about 20mm inside the frame horn but you can weld it on the inside of the pivot box itself. I welded all 4 sides of the pivot box on
the inside as well as 3 on the outside top, bottom and one side..
The welds wont win any competition for beauty but I am confident that they are strong welds.
I thought it would take a lot longer than it has (4hrs) but once you have cut the hole and bolted the pivot box on to the jig all you have to do is weld it in and your finished.
So if you are hesitant about doing it don't be as with the jig it is not possible to stuff it up and weld it in the wrong place. If you can weld you can do it no problems.
There is very little information on the net that tells you what to do and hopefully this will help you in the right direction.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
Mark
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maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
I have finished installing the IRS. After you have welded in the pivot box's it is really easy to bolt in the trailing arms.
Then you have to use the old spring plate off the IRS suspension to measure the hole layout and then cut your old ones to the correct length.
You cant use the IRS spring plates as they don't fit correctly and the splines for the torsion bars are in the wrong place.
If you are considering changing to an IRS suspension instead of a swing axle then you need the following items.
1. Complete trailing arms.
2. IRS spring plates for use as a jig
3. I need new stub axles as I am using Kombi CV joints
4. Weld in pivot boxes
5. A jig to locate the right position to weld the pivot box's in
6. Axles to suit your gearbox
7. CV joints
8.CV joint bolts
Anyway I have started on the exhaust. It is really tricky trying to miss everything. I had to clear the trailing arms, shock absorber, axles and CV joints, the body, and the engine. If I had not of cut the back firewall to make it larger there would be very little space and it would be really difficult to make an exhaust with the engine in as well.
The exhaust is 75mm all the way through. I bought the down pipe off the turbo, a donut, a 180dg bend and a 90dg bend.
At the moment it is just tacked together as it is too hot in my shed to carry on! It is 40dg outside which is way to hot to be in a tin shed. I have insulation in there and an air conditioner but you still sweat at this temp! So later on tonight I will start welding (Tig) them together.
I welded 2 flanges on to th epipe so it is easier to put on and remove rather than trying to make it one complete pipe. I am also going to put a flange on the end of the pipe before the muffler so if I need to it will be easy to use different mufflers in the future. .
The pipe finish's in a 90dg bend that will make the pipe and muffler next to the existing exhaust headers. The muffler will be located behind the rear apron. However I have cut the inside of the apron to create more room. You could leave the apron standard but your muffler choice would be really limited and it would be close to everything. Now I have plenty of room available.
I have also modified the rear apron by removing all the spot welds that join it to the body. Then cut out the inside of it and then welded on a flat strip as a flange so it can be bolted in place by the original fender bolts (4). All I have to do now is remove 4 bolts and the apron comes off and this makes it really easy to get to the engine.
I think the way to go to give you great access to the drivetrain would be to have the rear fenders and the apron as one piece (Probably fibreglass but the original apron and guards would be OK as well) with about 6 bolts to hold it in place. Might look at doing this after it is running and drivable
I have finished installing the IRS. After you have welded in the pivot box's it is really easy to bolt in the trailing arms.
Then you have to use the old spring plate off the IRS suspension to measure the hole layout and then cut your old ones to the correct length.
You cant use the IRS spring plates as they don't fit correctly and the splines for the torsion bars are in the wrong place.
If you are considering changing to an IRS suspension instead of a swing axle then you need the following items.
1. Complete trailing arms.
2. IRS spring plates for use as a jig
3. I need new stub axles as I am using Kombi CV joints
4. Weld in pivot boxes
5. A jig to locate the right position to weld the pivot box's in
6. Axles to suit your gearbox
7. CV joints
8.CV joint bolts
Anyway I have started on the exhaust. It is really tricky trying to miss everything. I had to clear the trailing arms, shock absorber, axles and CV joints, the body, and the engine. If I had not of cut the back firewall to make it larger there would be very little space and it would be really difficult to make an exhaust with the engine in as well.
The exhaust is 75mm all the way through. I bought the down pipe off the turbo, a donut, a 180dg bend and a 90dg bend.
At the moment it is just tacked together as it is too hot in my shed to carry on! It is 40dg outside which is way to hot to be in a tin shed. I have insulation in there and an air conditioner but you still sweat at this temp! So later on tonight I will start welding (Tig) them together.
I welded 2 flanges on to th epipe so it is easier to put on and remove rather than trying to make it one complete pipe. I am also going to put a flange on the end of the pipe before the muffler so if I need to it will be easy to use different mufflers in the future. .
The pipe finish's in a 90dg bend that will make the pipe and muffler next to the existing exhaust headers. The muffler will be located behind the rear apron. However I have cut the inside of the apron to create more room. You could leave the apron standard but your muffler choice would be really limited and it would be close to everything. Now I have plenty of room available.
I have also modified the rear apron by removing all the spot welds that join it to the body. Then cut out the inside of it and then welded on a flat strip as a flange so it can be bolted in place by the original fender bolts (4). All I have to do now is remove 4 bolts and the apron comes off and this makes it really easy to get to the engine.
I think the way to go to give you great access to the drivetrain would be to have the rear fenders and the apron as one piece (Probably fibreglass but the original apron and guards would be OK as well) with about 6 bolts to hold it in place. Might look at doing this after it is running and drivable
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maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
I am pretty pleased with how the exhaust is turning out. If you have to get someone to make the exhaust for you it would cost a fair bit as it is a lot of work and mucking around.
I also cut about 6 inches out on the inner rear guard firewall to create more room so I could see from the side instead of lying on the ground and looking up
I am lucky as I bought at Tig welder and then taught myself to weld about 6 months ago.
You could use a Mig but as the stainless is not that thick you don't have the control like you do with a Tig.
I am not sure if my welds are worthy of being viewed (which I think is pretty cool) or ground off with a flappy disc!
We will see after I have finished which it will be. A virginal weld or a ground to smooth one!
Thanks for looking and your comments.
cheers
Mark
I also cut about 6 inches out on the inner rear guard firewall to create more room so I could see from the side instead of lying on the ground and looking up
I am lucky as I bought at Tig welder and then taught myself to weld about 6 months ago.
You could use a Mig but as the stainless is not that thick you don't have the control like you do with a Tig.
I am not sure if my welds are worthy of being viewed (which I think is pretty cool) or ground off with a flappy disc!
We will see after I have finished which it will be. A virginal weld or a ground to smooth one!
Thanks for looking and your comments.
cheers
Mark
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maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi all
In this pic you can see the space behind the rear apron as discussed above.
You can see the difference in size from a VW gearbox and the Subaru 5 speed.
The exhaust pic shows how much clearance there is from the trailing arm looking at it from underneath.
In this pic you can see the space behind the rear apron as discussed above.
You can see the difference in size from a VW gearbox and the Subaru 5 speed.
The exhaust pic shows how much clearance there is from the trailing arm looking at it from underneath.
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hulbyw Insano Dub Head
819 posts · joined Sep 2009 ·
Cool. Great thread. Congrats on your progress so far
Cheers
Cheers
karmann141 Wolfsburg Wizard
485 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·
Mate your welding looks excellent and are definitely worthy.maloo wrote:I am lucky as I bought at Tig welder and then taught myself to weld about 6 months ago.
You could use a Mig but as the stainless is not that thick you don't have the control like you do with a Tig.
I am not sure if my welds are worthy of being viewed (which I think is pretty cool) or ground off with a flappy disc!
We will see after I have finished which it will be. A virginal weld or a ground to smooth one!
Thanks for looking and your comments.
cheers
Mark
There's someone on here whose welds look like they've been put on with a spoon and they have no problem sharing it with the world.
Keep up the great work.
1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
Well I could not decide weather to leave the weld virginal or grind them down!
So I did both!
I have also cleaned the pipe up a bit with a wire brush on a grinder.
The welds are not beautiful by any imagination but I am confident that they wont leak and are strong.
The most difficult thing about welding it is having to stop every 50 or so mm in order to turn the pipe to weld another small section. Plus having to get inside the beds with the torch and trying to keep it at the same distance from the metal. You can see in the last picture where I start and finish in order to turn the pipe
I got a few burns for my efforts as well!
So much easier to weld 2 bits of flat metal together!
Thanks for the good comments it is appreciated.
cheers
Mark
Well I could not decide weather to leave the weld virginal or grind them down!
So I did both!
I have also cleaned the pipe up a bit with a wire brush on a grinder.
The welds are not beautiful by any imagination but I am confident that they wont leak and are strong.
The most difficult thing about welding it is having to stop every 50 or so mm in order to turn the pipe to weld another small section. Plus having to get inside the beds with the torch and trying to keep it at the same distance from the metal. You can see in the last picture where I start and finish in order to turn the pipe
I got a few burns for my efforts as well!
So much easier to weld 2 bits of flat metal together!
Thanks for the good comments it is appreciated.
cheers
Mark
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Mate,I have seen welding jobs from professional exhaust people that come no where near the quality of what you have done-be proud.
1303Steve Scirocco Rare
8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
nice work
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
Thanks for the comments about my welding!
If you want to learn to meditate and 'be in the moment' then Tig welding is for you!
cheers
Mark
Thanks for the comments about my welding!
If you want to learn to meditate and 'be in the moment' then Tig welding is for you!
cheers
Mark
maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
After I removed the rear apron it was so easy to get the engine and gearbox in as one unit. if the apron was still there it would have been really difficult to get the engine in even without the gearbox connected.
If you scroll back to an earlier post that shows the engine in situ you can see how close it is to the apron. In fact it is much worse than this as I have used the Subaru engine mount I have lowered the engine 75mm to make clearance so I did not have to cut the body for the cam covers
If you are thinking of putting a turbo twin cam motor in I could not recommend highly enough that you do the mod to the apron so that you can remove it.
I used the 'Subaru gears' engine and gearbox mount and it fitted a treat and easy as to install. Although the fixing where it mounts to the body is right on the pivot box's and therefore you have to remove the trailing arms before you can mount it. Also there is not much room in between the trailing arm and the pivot box so it is really tight to fit bolts in. I have decided to weld the mount to the pivot box;s instead. It makes no difference for engine/gearbox removal. The only issue would be if you wanted to remove the gearbox and leave the engine in (I wouldn't as it is easier to remove both as a unit).
I have not completely decided which way to go yet but will post a pic after it is done.
I also would really recommend that you also move the rear firewall to give much needed space. From the inside you cannot tell that it has been modified but the space for easy access and installation is well worth it.
Had I not done this mod I would have still had to cut some of the rear firewall away to fit the Subaru gearbox in.
Anyway check out the pics to see how much room there is to work on.
Cheers
Mark
After I removed the rear apron it was so easy to get the engine and gearbox in as one unit. if the apron was still there it would have been really difficult to get the engine in even without the gearbox connected.
If you scroll back to an earlier post that shows the engine in situ you can see how close it is to the apron. In fact it is much worse than this as I have used the Subaru engine mount I have lowered the engine 75mm to make clearance so I did not have to cut the body for the cam covers
If you are thinking of putting a turbo twin cam motor in I could not recommend highly enough that you do the mod to the apron so that you can remove it.
I used the 'Subaru gears' engine and gearbox mount and it fitted a treat and easy as to install. Although the fixing where it mounts to the body is right on the pivot box's and therefore you have to remove the trailing arms before you can mount it. Also there is not much room in between the trailing arm and the pivot box so it is really tight to fit bolts in. I have decided to weld the mount to the pivot box;s instead. It makes no difference for engine/gearbox removal. The only issue would be if you wanted to remove the gearbox and leave the engine in (I wouldn't as it is easier to remove both as a unit).
I have not completely decided which way to go yet but will post a pic after it is done.
I also would really recommend that you also move the rear firewall to give much needed space. From the inside you cannot tell that it has been modified but the space for easy access and installation is well worth it.
Had I not done this mod I would have still had to cut some of the rear firewall away to fit the Subaru gearbox in.
Anyway check out the pics to see how much room there is to work on.
Cheers
Mark
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maloo Slammed & Awesome Dubber
82 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·
Hi All
Well I have hit into another problem. With the engine mount and gearbox mount in place I could not bolt the gearbox to the mount as it was about 10mm short from mating.
It was the extended Subaru flange that was hitting on the frame horns. I also had to have the gearbox lower than it was sitting as it was not low enough to connect up to the shift rod. As it was sitting on the horn it could not go lower. I even tried to raise the engine and put it on a slight angle with the hope that at the end of the gearbox it would be low enough to be in the right position but it did not work it was still too high.
I think that the frame horns on an early beetle (62) are straight and dont have a 'dip' in them like later models.
In the end the best way to continue on was to cut into the frame horn and make a 'dip' in it and then weld it all up back together again so it would still be strong just a slightly different profile.
So out with the grinder and cut off wheel and here we are!
I am going to cut up some flat bar and weld it all up with the dip in it. At least this way there is plenty of clearance and will still be rigid with the new section welded in.
But for now here is the cut.
cheers
Mark
Well I have hit into another problem. With the engine mount and gearbox mount in place I could not bolt the gearbox to the mount as it was about 10mm short from mating.
It was the extended Subaru flange that was hitting on the frame horns. I also had to have the gearbox lower than it was sitting as it was not low enough to connect up to the shift rod. As it was sitting on the horn it could not go lower. I even tried to raise the engine and put it on a slight angle with the hope that at the end of the gearbox it would be low enough to be in the right position but it did not work it was still too high.
I think that the frame horns on an early beetle (62) are straight and dont have a 'dip' in them like later models.
In the end the best way to continue on was to cut into the frame horn and make a 'dip' in it and then weld it all up back together again so it would still be strong just a slightly different profile.
So out with the grinder and cut off wheel and here we are!
I am going to cut up some flat bar and weld it all up with the dip in it. At least this way there is plenty of clearance and will still be rigid with the new section welded in.
But for now here is the cut.
cheers
Mark
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1303Steve Scirocco Rare
8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
could you use a bit of a radius from a 4 inch pipe to make up the weld in section?
KalgoorlieGreg Seriously Crusin Dubber
196 posts · joined Aug 2016 ·
Would you like the horns from the Superbeetle chassis I have for the patch? If you can't get anything closer to home?