So the blue Superbug has been in the tractor shed steering at me when I go pass, and thought this would make a cool winter project.
1) I now have access to Tesla motor and gearbox out of the USA, you know I converted the 66 bug to electric and its a ripper. The Tesla is 420 Kw and $15,900 plus shipping and taxes maybe down the track.
So a few questions I have read Joels awesome conversion great work mate, I was going with this:
First Im in NSW am I push the preverbial S$%t up hill????
1) Subrugears gearbox
2) Rafers braces where do I get this?
3) Rear disc brake kit where and whats a good brand that people have used?
4) Toyota MR2 ali racing radiator
5) Have ordered a rear airbag kit from Airkewld not because Im a bag person but I live in the snowy mountains and have 3Km of dirt rough road to get over, I thought this way I can raise the car until I get to the black top.
6) front has disc brakes already
7) front struts I need a set of springs as the previous owner cut them, I am OK with cutting the spring cup lowering and re-welding
8) Front replacement strut inserts any ideas??
Thank you for any pointers a real newbie when it comes to bugs
Another WOW project from you. I also love those front guards. I have them on 3 cars. That one in your pic looks like the clip is already there to hold the top oh the headlight. They take any 6 volt Beetle head light assembly. I have bought all ally radiators for the busses with Suby motors. They suit an EH Holden. The top inlet is slightly smaller. Haven't decided yet how I will change that. The motors in an EH were just over 2.5 litre, so with a good air supply they should work. Like your work- well done.
nbturbo wrote:Another WOW project from you. I also love those front guards. I have them on 3 cars. That one in your pic looks like the clip is already there to hold the top oh the headlight. They take any 6 volt Beetle head light assembly. I have bought all ally radiators for the busses with Suby motors. They suit an EH Holden. The top inlet is slightly smaller. Haven't decided yet how I will change that. The motors in an EH were just over 2.5 litre, so with a good air supply they should work. Like your work- well done.
Thanks mate you are a champ, any idea on front struts? and rear disc kits?
Never had anything to do with ones with struts-other than to use the pans for repair pieces for early pans.I do my own rear disc conversions using everything from the back of an ED Ford Falcon.I have done a couple in 5x130 using this stuff.Bought some new blank rotors and redrilled.I buy my front rotors from John Sherman in QLD,his prices are quite reasonable.I have bought 5x130 and 5x114.3 from him and they are good quality.I have always used the 22mm brake master cylinder with no probs.I ended up with a few spare M/C in LH drive,so have converted 3 floor pans to use them up.(one was my Drag Car which I converted to LH steer anyway) They are way cheaper than RH drive ones.
if your budget can afford it 911 headlights fit as well and they dont have the ugly Herman Munster bolt on the bottom. I have 911 headlights in my bug and also my sons bug. Checck out my build thread
Get some skinny struts from Vintage, they have smaller diameter springs which help fitting wider front wheels
1303Steve wrote:if your budget can afford it 911 headlights fit as well and they dont have the ugly Herman Munster bolt on the bottom. I have 911 headlights in my bug and also my sons bug. Checck out my build thread
Get some skinny struts from Vintage, they have smaller diameter springs which help fitting wider front wheels
Thanks Steve your build thread was an awesome read ups and downs I saw your car at the snowy 1000 I was pit crewing for Brett with the Electric Radical. Next day I raced against Glen Torrens at the hill climb in my electric car.
Boris is my new best friend have a front valance slotted on the way, I will check his structs out and springs thanks.
1303Steve wrote:You can get 911 headlights with chrome ring or mine are black and they use a body coloured ring cover, not sure of the year but in the 80s I think.
Did we talk at the Snowy? I hope I can get an entry this year with all my extra kWs it should be fun
Thanks for the info Steve Im not sure if I said hello or not at the 1000 will catch up this year for sure.
How many Kws you running now? I wonder if I could get you to the dark side with a an Electric Tesla power plant 420 Kw and only one gear you would get your Bug doing 0-100 in 2.7 seconds.
Catch up for sure, I dont think Glen will be going again
My old setup was making 282 kW. The forged strocker is capable of 400 kW in AWD cars so it will be interesting to see what I can make, I not at the limit of the chassis yet but another 100 kW might do it.
Tesla sounds interesting, a friend has a Tesla I going to get her to take it out to the drags when I go out next
1303Steve wrote:Catch up for sure, I dont think Glen will be going again
My old setup was making 282 kW. The forged strocker is capable of 400 kW in AWD cars so it will be interesting to see what I can make, I not at the limit of the chassis yet but another 100 kW might do it.
Tesla sounds interesting, a friend has a Tesla I going to get her to take it out to the drags when I go out next
Thats impressive power mate.
If you need a bed and last minute workshop for the Snowy 1000 just let us know we are only 30 minutes from the Airport.
You have to get a ride in the Tesla it really tests the sensors like its fast but your mine is so use to noise you don't believe it.
I smashed one of me running boards last year at Eastern Creek but I finally tracked down a pair, I gave to a fibreglass friend of mine who is copying them in fibreglass.
I think I know the Subaru drift car owner, hes a friend of my son, we are involved in the drift scene, I have a 180SX and I bought a body kit from the Subaru drift car driver
Gone cold on us Kiwiev- that Airkewld stuff is the same as I bought. Instructions are vague so a lot of cut and test fit. Pretty sure I put pics on here of the process
nbturbo wrote:Gone cold on us Kiwiev- that Airkewld stuff is the same as I bought. Instructions are vague so a lot of cut and test fit. Pretty sure I put pics on here of the process
Sorry mate just had 5 weeks RnR in New Zealand back on deck now, my boy has pulled the seats out and bonnets off while I was away and has almost got the motor out.
Hopefully in the next week I will pick up the Subi
Well had a mixed day on the superbug, the good the bad and the ugly. Good was got the motor out OK the bad was the death foam rust holes are just plain ugly.
Geezus Kiwi - that's enough rust to send you loopy. I only play with 6 volt bodies and have never seen anything that bad. But did buy a curved screen one couple of years back and found it almost as bad. Will use some of it for doner metal to make my Oval ute body.
So the Son and I picked up the Liberty it has the converted 2 litre turbo WRX complete with STI heads and variable boost dump valve. The thing bloody flys. It is only running in rear wheel drive as it was a drift car. And drift it does with the button racing clutch its out or in so wheels spins easy. Boost hits at 2000 rpm and pulls all the way to 7200 rpm in a blink of an eye. Not a bad buy for $2000 with adjustable coil overs all round. I thought we might use the rear brakes too and use subagears conversion.
So we took the rear apron off as suggested by Mark great idea trying to look where to cut the fire wall out Mark. I looked at your thread its a bit dark but I guess the whole thing.
Basically I just inverted the standard firewall to make the bottom corner become the top corner. Off memory I think it is about 300mm. I had intended to use the piece I cut out but decided it was much better to fabricate one out of sheet metal that I could take the back off it easily. I am really really glad I did as there is hardly any room to work from the front....
Then I just welded it into place......you could also bolt it in no problems....
I must admit that when I got the grinder out and started cutting I was thinking what the fu&k am I doing....but great now...
Basically I just inverted the standard firewall to make the bottom corner become the top corner. Off memory I think it is about 300mm. I had intended to use the piece I cut out but decided it was much better to fabricate one out of sheet metal that I could take the back off it easily. I am really really glad I did as there is hardly any room to work from the front....
Then I just welded it into place......you could also bolt it in no problems....
I must admit that when I got the grinder out and started cutting I was thinking what the fu&k am I doing....but great now...
Cheers
Mark
Great Mark I will do that and maybe just weld in 1 25mm SHS frame around the opening to bolt the sheet metal on with a rubber seal.
A bit more work today took a big breath and got the grinder out cut a big hole in the fire wall. Then gave 1303Steve a call to make sure I did the right thing. See below hole and donor motor to fill the hole.
