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Grey 57 Old Grey Cruiser

2,937 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#8975
You used to be able to buy a conversion kit for this. Sharpe Built in Qld was the company I think. Used the T1 fan with fiberglass shrouds on the engine. Looked pretty simple to do.
Dunni about the gearbox, I think tunnel case swing axle boxes are all the same, except for the final drive ratios and the lenght of the axles??:bounce

Che Castro ankle straps

1,945 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9034
The biggest problem is the tranny, as you need the later style throw out bearing to fit the type 4 clutch. unless you are able to get hold of a flywheel that has a type 4 centre that a type 1 clutch bolts up to. i know Kennedy Engineering makes em. Other than that the box should hold up, especially in a light car like a beetle. Although if it is an early box it will have the low final ratio so highway speeds will be fun, supposedly with a type 4 in a beetle u dont even need 1st gear most of the time because there is so much damn torque!

You can modify a type 1 shroud to do the job, although it isnt that pretty and cooling isnt really even. a 911 cooling system will overcool a stocker, have u ever looked at the DTM shroud?

http://www.spiretech.com/~opshroud/

it has very even cooling, is cheap compared to a real 911 shroud and it can cool up to about 2.6L.
Jon

aussiebug Officially Full-On Dubber

246 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#9047
All you need to know about converting a type4 engine for use in a bug can be found in Joe Cali's Manual on the subject.

His site http://home.att.net/~nextgen/index.html has lots of info on it, including a link to Sharpbuilt in Toowoomba who indeed do make conversion components.
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com

Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus

5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9131
I am about 1/3 way through this exact process (installing a 2L type IV into my 63 beetle). I am going with the type I style cooling from Sharpbuilt (haven't got it yet so can't comment on quality). This system bypasses the oil from the stock cooler location through hoses to an oil cooler mounted to the shroud in a doghouse style fan shroud. Hard to understand I know....until you see it.

My engine will have a stock (balanced) 2L crank and rods, 215mm flywheel with pilot bush pressed in so I can run a late 12V swingaxle box....you can't fit a 228 flywheel in easily! I am using 2L heads with 1800 valves (larger than 2L) and a reground cam. 40 dells and sharpbuilt cooling system.

This post is getting long, let me know if you have any other questions (I may be able to help - unless of course the questions relate to a step I haven't got to yet!)

Alan
www.dasrestoparts.com.au

vwrallycar Insano Dub Head

721 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#9167
what exhaust and where do u get it?

Che Castro ankle straps

1,945 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9186
yeah, exhaust is a hard bit, not many systems around and they are all $$$.

yeah i got a 63 as well and i wanna do a T IV conversion one day as well, i guess it'd be a good opportunity to switch to an IRS pan to overcome the throwout bearing problem as well as to improve handling
Jon

type82e Wolfsburg Wizard

591 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9197
a friend told me you just cut the ends off the standard kombi exhaust and shorten it to fit?
marcel😀

Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus

5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9200
I still haven't decided on exhaust....an ahnendorp system would be ideal (www.ahnendorp.com) but at 295 euros it is a little out of my range (not to mention the kafer cup racing exhaust which retails for 1153 euros!!).

I think Sharpbuilt sells some system (4 into 1 extractors to fit into a beetle I think).
www.dasrestoparts.com.au

Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus

5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9367
So far, $375 for base engine (1800, plus a 2L crank and rods), $500 for reco'd heads (2L with 1800 valves - 3 angle valve grind etc), $150 for reground cam (not sure of specs) and resurfaced stock lifters, $95 for engine gasket kit, $800 for twin 40 dells and linkages, $80 for type IV manifolds.

Holy crap, around $2000 already!!

I still expect to spend around $400 for case work (drill, clean and tap oil galleys, align bore if necessary), crank regrind and balancing (crank, rods, pulley, flywheel and pressure plate). Plus bearings (availability is a killer - still looking) - not sure how much? In terms of upright conversion, I expect around $600 (get a quote off Sharpbuilt to be precise), plus extra for a doghouse shroud, plus around $250 for exhaust. Then there is cam bearings, oil pump if necessary, $370 roughly for a 215mm pressure plate/clutch plate/throw out bearing kit, plus other stuff I can not remember at the moment!!

The costs quickly add up for type IV stuff, but if you have carbs and a base 2L already that will help. All up around $3-4.5K depending on how much other stuff I decide to get - I am building it myself to save some cashola.

Add in a later 12V swingaxle box that I will have to buy and have rebuilt (around $700-800), and now I really hope the "love and kisses" doesn't see this post!!

Alan
www.dasrestoparts.com.au

Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus

5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9368
I could have built a type I for a lot cheaper but really liked the idea of Type IV power (I shouldn't have spent so much time on Shoptalkforums.com - type4rum....bad influence!).

Supposedly the torque these engines provide is pretty awesome, plus the engine life if built correctly is a big draw card. Plus you can build a pretty much stock 2L without worrying about case clearancing concerns and other hi-po bits required for a 2L plus type I (no I'm not bagging them....I will be building a type I next time most likely).

Good luck:cry
www.dasrestoparts.com.au

kombi_kid Moderator Good Kid too many projects

124 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#9558
i think brad has made a few upright conversions in his time??????????
cheers
rhys