Hi folks,
The last two times I drove my kombi ('75 2L) it overheated: it got to 135 degrees after 15 or 20 minutes of driving, at which point I stopped. It's never had overheating problems before (it normally runs at 110 degrees), so something must have suddenly changed, only I don't know what! Any ideas where I should start looking?
Thanks in advance
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
ignition timing is the 1st thing
Please, I need drivers side window regulator (winder mechanism) for my '54
2nd thing is something that is causing a very lean mixture in one or both carbies, could be air leak, pull a plug from both sides & compare them if all hoses seem on & tight
Please, I need drivers side window regulator (winder mechanism) for my '54
and check to ensure that you haven't lost any tinware off the motor....
Time for an oil change or maybe flush out the oil cooler?
Kruizin Kol
check previous posts;
also 1: major oil leak (pressure switch es have failed me in past) resulting in low oil volume. 2: minor oil leak and dusty roads resulting in build up of crap mix of dirt and oil on barrels Usually in oil coller area. 3: piece of paper or rag sucked in fan, blocking air to barrels or oil cooler.4 Air leakage from cooling system, get ALL the air flowing over heads and barrels. Thermostat diaphragm U/S and staying in closed position
they took me away haha, hope the medication works
Aaaaaargh I'm too busy! I've been working 14 hour days so I haven't had a spare moment to do anything to the kombi, and I'm flying to Brissie tomorrow and I won't get back until Sunday night and then on Monday morning I'm supposed to be driving my kombi from Canberra to Tamworth!!! And it's still overheating so I'll never get there!!!!!!!
- There are no air laks that I can find.
- I can't see any tinware missing, although the little plastic cover that goes over the alternator adjusting bolt has fallen off and been eaten by the belt and fan.
- Oil level is fine
- There is no thermostat or flaps (grrrrrr at PO)
So....
Q1. Can I check/adjust the timing on a dark Sunday night without one of those fancy flashing light things, and if so how?
Q2. Is it easy to clear the various air channels of sucked-in-rags etc, and if so what do I need to do? (I've never taken the motor apart yet so I don't know what it looks like behind the tin).
Thanks in advance! I'll check for replies when I get back from Brissie. I really need to stop working so hard.
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
A1. Yes and no. You can set it by rocking the pulley back and forth and listening for the click as the points open, but I wouldn't recommend static timing on a kombi. It should be running as per the manual.
A2. Remove the tinware from the bottom of the motor (relatively simple, but usually greasy) and use a torch to check whether there are any obstructions to airflow in the fins around the barrells and heads. It is possible to clean a fair bit of the fins from below, but to do it properly the easiest way is to remove the motor.
Kruizin Kol
You need these flaps. Most kombi's in Aus don't have thermostats but the flap on the left side directs air over your oil cooler And make sure the two flat pieces of tin are fitted to the bottom of your engine between your heater boxes and case. These are very important to keep the air flowing past the bottom side of your barrels. Also make sure no hot air is getting into your engine bay through your heater box inlet ports. If the valves are not fitted to the front side and you remove the ducting from the fan inside the engine (the fan has one way flaps inside)they put hot air into the engine bay and therefore into your fan :bounce
