Testing Engine electricals?

Andy Andy\'s Adventures

2,820 posts · joined Nov 2002 · 10 Jan 2004, 10:00 am

#127941

So how do you all fault find electricals on your engine??
Thought this might be useful to track down problems with poor or no spark.
How do you all check the following:
Spark plugs
plug leads (copper or silicon)
coils
condensor
rotor
distributor cap
points (or electronic)
power lead
:thumb

Andy Andy\'s Adventures

2,820 posts · joined Nov 2002 · 10 Jan 2004, 10:09 am

#127943

I'll start with my simplified answers.
Plugs: visual check only for any build up that may cause misfiring. Check also gap, cracks in insulator, clean thread and good sealing washer.
Leads (copper) check they are clean (cable outer), no corrosion on lead ends and resistance (value varies depending on type) For silicon ones, no idea?
Coil: measure primary resistance (again varies coil to coil). Anything else?
Condensor: No idea?
Rotor: Visual check it's clean and not cracked. Measure resistance (varies rotor to rotor)
Cap: Visual check it's clean and not cracked.
Points: Visual check they are clean and not burnt and gapped correctly.
Power: Check 12V makes it to coil. (6V for 6V systems!!)
Anything I missed?
Hope this helps people 🙂

count Casual Dubber

48 posts · joined Jan 2004 · 10 Jan 2004, 2:50 pm

#127997

Thanks Andy,

I must admit:cry
I've not done any serious,
or even NOT so serious work on the Dub.

Because of where I live I am going to have to🙁

I'm copying your write up to Word for my refering back to when needed.

The Guzzi [you know? 'older' pushrod Air-cooled Italian Motorcycle] Forum
has quite a few pages of similar.
It's at:-
http://home.pacific.net.au/~cusacks4/aigor/
More specificly:-
http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/rdd/TT/

Would someone please comment on these?
Some 'outside' feedback.

Ivan in Oz
count@[remove]norcom.net.au

Ivan in Oz
1976 Beetle 1600
Mitsubishi Delicious 2.8TDi 4X4
MotoGuzzi
You're only Young once,
You can be immature forever.

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 10 Jan 2004, 5:22 pm

#128046

Thanks Andy

I was going to say that most checks would be Visual but you have described them 2 a Tee

I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

11CAB If ya got it....Baja it

4,674 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 10 Jan 2004, 8:35 pm

#128110

Copper leads should have close to zero resistance....

Rotor Button should have about 5000 ohms resistance (less is better than more)

Silicon leads should have 5000-8000 ohms per 30cm of lead.

Coil you are looking at about 3 ohm resistance

Plugs check for gap, also for the shape of the electrode (should be nice and square)

Cap, check for cracks and carbon tracking, also make sure the centre carbon and spring are intact

65 Meyers Manx
68 Country Buggy (KO 367)
68 Country Buggy (KO 669)
68 Country Buggy (KO 789)
68 Country Buggy (KO 815)
68 Baja Bug
76 Baja Kombi Twincab

Andy Andy\'s Adventures

2,820 posts · joined Nov 2002 · 10 Jan 2004, 9:28 pm

#128128

Cool,
Thanks for all the info 11CAB.

Anyone else have anything to add?

Might do one on fuel next :thumb

MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth

3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 · 10 Jan 2004, 9:35 pm

#128132

hehe...fuel....throw in match.If burns is good.:jesus. Sorry have hit da RUMMM(hic)

tssnq.com.au

Andy Andy\'s Adventures

2,820 posts · joined Nov 2002 · 12 Jan 2004, 8:30 am

#128467

Oh,
just to add a condensor should read ~0.2uF.