Ok guys, just a query. I'm going to be useing a type 2 Gearbox in my latest Manx project.
I would like to use type 2 CV's (or 181's) all round for there extra travel. I know I can get the stub axles modified to accept type 2 cv's, but is this a road legal mod?
But custom offroad have a # beside the number which means "Off road use only"
My Manx will be road registered and I want to do everything legally. So.. Is this an acceptable mod, will I be able to get this approved or will I have to order special stub axles from somewhere like aircooled.net that have Type 1 to type 2 CV stub axles?
My thoughts: The mod you're talking about isn't related to brakes, steering or chassis, so why not just do it?
Not that I think it matters in this case, but the authorities wouldn't know you'd done it unless you told them anyway...
Even if the 'new' CV's were to be weaker than stock, the worst thing that could happen is you'd bust a CV and lose forward momentum. You'd still have brakes and steering, and it doesn't affect any roadworthy item, so I can't see that there would be any problem. I'd just do it. 😉
if you need your axels machined to suit the CVs give me a call as i can do them for you far cheaper then most places. This is only for the axles at this stage not the stub axles.
Andy
You can also use early 944 ones. I know plenty of people on the street using Type 1 stubs with weld on flanges, done properly no one would ever know. Im using 944 stubs but Im also running Superboot short axles so on the tranny end Im still using the Type 1 flange but with a wide adaptor for the Kombi CV.
Yes they are legal and can be plated with the suspension substitution / kombi box intsall.
Best to get porsche stub axles they bolt straight in and have teh type 2 CV flange on them. Basically they are exactly the same as type 1 axles but have type 2 flanges on them.
Last set of Porsche stubs I heard about where selling for around $250 pr from the Porsche guys in WA, Swam I think they are called.
Buggy Brad wrote:Just to clarify they replace the beetle stub axles using the same beetle bearings and stuff. You still need to modify the drive axles to suit the kombi cv's.
These are a better option that redrilling the type 1 stubs as even when drilled the type 1 stbs are not deep enough to allow the kombi cv to work properly.
It's the second point here that sold me on the idea.
So I rang Swam Porsche about 944 stub axles. The guy from Swan seems to think that the stub axles have to be from an 1982 to 1985 Porsche 944 to work in a beetle trailing arm. They sell them 2nd hand for $150 each.
I didn't push the guy but I'd say I should be able to get em for $250pr.
Brad is correct, the modified type 1 stub still isn't deep enough to clear the CV through full swing. I painted the inside of my stubs to easily see where contact is, and I find the CV cage knocks the paint off. It doesn't appear to do any serious damage though, at least I haven't had any probs yet. You could easily clearance the stub in this area in a lathe if you really wanted to.
But yes the Porsche items are the way to go, if your prepared to pay the money.
I talked to Joe at Swan Porsche the other day and he said that the 944s are the same as the beetle stubs so there is no point using them. I told him I wanted Type 2 CVs all the way round but he said to just cut an axle and weld it??? I couldn't quite explain the flange and location bits. He wants me to get some measurements for him> He also said that he worked in aVW place and has done many conversions. Would I be right then, when I say, to use a beetle stub and Kombi cv, you have to machine the flange off and use the cv bolts as locators?? I can picture it but it is hard to explain. He is the expert and I'm not. I am going to have a look at some anyway but should I take any measurements to make sure they are the right ones? I don't want no lemons. any of you guys free to help?? he he. Any advice would be appreciated.
I am heading to Swan porsche tomorrow to have a look at the stubs. I was also told that it is Ok to just run Type 2 CVs at the 3-rib and Type 1s at the stubs. I assume that the angles are still too great if I notch my springplates to do this, and I still need kombi CVs all round?
I want to get maximum lift now so i can have it forever so I thik i will go the 944 option. Just wondering about opinions.
I got my t2/t1 welded stubs from the aussie vw performance center. They have a t2 flange welded onto the t1 stub. Then they were machined to suit t2 cvs. I'm not sure if they were clearanced in the center for the cvs like wes was saying but the center of the flange was machined to some extent.
They were talking about making these an off the shelf item. Don't know if they did, but it would be worth asking them if you live down that way.
They were $100 bucks each a couple of years ago.
Doh, forgot to post the pics. I took them and everything just forgot to post em here. I'll post them when I get home tonight, but you will probably have already gone to swan by then.
Hey dudes
I went to swan Porsche and sure enough, the kombi CVs fit the stub just right. I am not sure about the rest of the stub beign right though, I don't have a stub from a type 1 to compare it to. Are type 3s the same as a beetle?
MikeM, a pic would be great :-). Joe only had one on hand but he is getting some in. WE were both learnign as we went. :-)
Thanks for the help
Jamie
Dance like a blind person
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
one more time.............................early porsche 944 stubs are the same as beetle, the only difference is the CV flange, which is the same as Kombi.
What is the price for the porsche stubs over there ??
Craig Torrens wrote:one more time.............................early porsche 944 stubs are the same as beetle, the only difference is the CV flange, which is the same as Kombi.
What is the price for the porsche stubs over there ??
Would also be interested in a price/availability........:thumb
Yeh nah. The whole time, I have listened to what you have said. Its not my fault I am on the wrong side of the country.
I rang swan porsche and told them what I wanted to do. he said that the 944 stubs were IDENTICAL to the beetle's. I am 19 and from the country ( I haven't even seen a 944 to my knowledge)not enough of an expert to dispute it except to say what I had been told by you guys. So I said I would find out more because he wanted measurements and started talkign about turbo 944 stubs. So then, I reread everythign and when I went there yesterday, I took a kombi and beetle CV. Like I said, he found out he was mistaken. But, how was/am I meant to know if it wasn't jsut a coincidence and the rest of the stub is not the same as the Type 1? I can take a stub off the Type 3 rear end that I just got which is why I was wondering if the Type 3 stubs are the same as the beetle's, but it is toolate now anyway. i could still send himethe measurements for confirmation though.. I am not in Perth anymore so I will have to tkae his word that the next ones are the 944s that I want when he sends them. I was just thinking of my shallow pocket and the hassle of sorting out a stuff-up. Sorry if I appear dumb. Paranoia is a horrible curse 🙂 Yesterday was the first time I had even seen a kombi Cv and likewise handled any CV up close.
Sorry, i am just glad I can actually ask you guys stuff and get help. Thanks
The one he had had a bit of surface rust and stuff which he thought might change the bearing size if rubbed off. I didn't think it would though, but I won't have a price until the next ones are sourced. I will let you know though.
Hopefully no more than $300 for the pair cos that is definately my upper limit. I will go the machine, drill and tap option if they are more. I can do them but it would save the hassle. I figure if I have this car for another 5-10 yrs, it will pay for itself and be worth more at sale cos of the goodies on it. Or as parts in the very least.
Rightio then, seeyabye
Jamie
Dance like a blind person
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
With reference to the rear stub axles:
Type 3 (sedan/stationwagen/fastback) are the same as Type 1 (beetle), all IRS beetles are the same e.g. Superbug/semiautomatic/ 76 model.
Cheers
Craig T
P.S. Use a type 3 bearing cover/oil seal they are stronger than beetle.
Sorry i was a bit snappy. 🙁 A few other things happened at the same time. hope I didn't put anyone off.
Thanks for the info on the stubs, I will use the Type 3 covers too. 🙂 Great advice.
Also, I got the call on the price of the stubs(944s). He found another one and said that they were $190 each. Hmmm. 🙁 I don't know if that is worth it. He is going to see if he can do it better becasue I said that $300 was my limit for sure.
Craig, I would be interested in your proposal! So if it works, I would send you the stubs and you would get them sorted? Do you do them yourself? I would pay you some $$$ for the trouble if you are a middle-man. As long as it comes out sheaper, I win. Half price! if they are just as good, there is no question. How are they done?
Dance like a blind person
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
All work is done by a leading Offroad and racecar prep workshop. Your axles are checked for straightness and also cracked tested prior to any work being performed..............I'm the middle man and I'm making no money on this exercise.
I will post photo's and final costings etc when mine are finished
Cheers
Craig T
P.S. Start looking for good stub axles with no wear !
Hey Craig??? Any news?? Not to be a pain or a pesterer 😉
Also, I was just wondering. How would I go with the kmbi cv's just at the gearbox and type 1s at the stubs?? I don't suppose I will get as much angle, but will I still be able to notch my springplates? I don't want my bloody springplates bashing on the stops, but I want as much lift as I can and thoguht I might as well go the whole hog now.
