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2 litre bay window motor into splitty

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preacherman Officially Full-On Dubber

257 posts · joined Feb 2004 ·

#153271
Hi all

Need to know if this is possible.

Have been working out what motor I need for my splitty bus and had settled on a 1916 after i got 68/69 rear end on. Now someone says why bother with an expensive 1916 why not put in a 2 litre carby model from a late model microbus

Is this fasable...What will I need to do to 68.9 rear end to accept 2 litre or is it not worth it.

Has anyone tried the job??

Sorry I am a vw teen...all questions and few answers

seagull Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,979 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·

#153273
and a R30 box ?? seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake

preacherman Officially Full-On Dubber

257 posts · joined Feb 2004 ·

#153377
I am gonna fit IRS and then what box will I need to fit. Will changes need to be made to 68/9 rear end to receive 2 litre box of a later bay kombi?

twoguns simply aircooled

4,275 posts · joined Nov 2002 ·

#153381
there is a lot of cutting to fit a stock bay 2l into a split. you would have to get a sharpbuilt upright conversion kit and stuff to make it fit more easily. so you will still have to fiddle with the motor. ive checked into this myself b4 going 1776. the 1916 will be a lot hotter in the splitty.
Simply Cruzin'...

bus356 Officially Full-On Dubber

319 posts · joined Nov 2003 ·

#153411
I'm going to have to deal with this q myslef within the next year or two - hey 2G, when you say hotter do you mean as in temperature? If so, why's that?

twoguns simply aircooled

4,275 posts · joined Nov 2002 ·

#153413
i spoke to a lot of people both here and in the states. and they were all saying to stick to a 1776 and definately no to a 1916 in a split ( i have a 62 so only 9 louvers per side) as they can and will run too hot. has to do with the piston and barrels etc, i think. as the guy in the states said if i wanted bigger the other good choice was a stroker 2110.
wierd as it is bigger but apparently will run cooler than the 1916.
my 1776 is good, but can get warm.
Simply Cruzin'...

splitbusaustralia Wolfsburg Wizard

487 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#157869
I will probably put something Type4 based in Leo the twin cab. You can get torque at low revs you just can't produce with a type1.

You can get em in without a fan conversion and chopping
things up to much. You can fit them leaving the bus engine
bay intact and cutting/modifying the Type4 engine tin.

If leaving the type4 stock fan you do have to cut into the rear valance fairly severely - in fact
its better to fabricate a strengthener bar in place of the
rear valance and maybe pop the outer valance skin on for appearances.

You should box the open rear chassis rails and you have to
fit mounts for the type 4 rear mounting crossmember (easy to do really)...

So, in summary, they will go in with the standard type 4 fan
and cooling setup if you modify the tin a bit (not as aesthetically pleasing as a shroud conversion in my opinion but $$ count to). Need to fabricate/modify rear valance. Need to box chassis rails and fit mount for rear cross bar.
Oh, also need to fudge with heater box connections if you want heat.

RobK

ratty 63 Custom Title Time!

1,083 posts · joined Oct 2003 ·

#158517
Hi all,

Shouldn't be a problem to fit a Type IV into a splitty - I know of a couple of ppl that are in the process of doing exactly this at the moment.

I would ditch the factory cooling fan and go for either the upright or porsche fan style cooling - don't have to do as much 'damage' to the bodywork to make it fit (the upright kit shouldn't need any mods actually - not 100% sure about the Porsche fan kit - I will check on that for you if you like)

There has been discussions about fitting Type IV motors into Bugs in the past, and as the Splitty Engine bay is not that much different in size (where the engine goes anyway) most of the info should be relevant. Check out this thread:

http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=17378

...and feel free to ask questions. My Brother seems to be in the middle of most of these conversions that I know of, and although he is not on the forum, I can relay your questions to him for you if you like....

R

[Edited on 8-4-2004 by ratty 63]
40hp, 6V and ...er... slowly making improvements 😂

It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!

Founding member of the Gold Coast Dub Club Inc. 🙂

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#158549
If you convert the Type 4 to any form of upright cooling that will allow fitment into a Beetle body-it will fit into your Kombi without any body mods.You could also fit the FAT Porsche cooling setup which means you don't have to strip the case to do the breather tower machining.Would have to modify Type 4 heater boxes to allow easy exhaust fit up-could use extractors from late Kombi with ease.

72ghiacab Learner Dubber

9 posts · joined Feb 2004 ·

#167530
The only thing I can add at this point that may be relevant is that I looked into a Sharpbuilt kit 18mths-2yr ago and it was around the $1,000 mark. Could be very different price now. Very helpful people. No provision for heaters at that time.

59 BUS Seriously Crusin Dubber

170 posts · joined Mar 2003 ·

#167657
It's the length of the motor you have to worry about, I was looking at dropping in a 2.7L flat 6 corvair into the back of mine. Maybe I should look at it again? Hmmm.

Kombi~Mike Casual Dubber

25 posts · joined Apr 2004 ·

#174081
Does anyone know can a 2ltr bay (76) motor be put into a 71??
will the "sharpbuilt" conversion work for me?

ratty 63 Custom Title Time!

1,083 posts · joined Oct 2003 ·

#175139
...the 71 had a type I 'upright' style engine in it (correct me if I am wrong - but I thought the type IV was an option on the '72-73 and standard from then on), so the Sharpbuilt kit will work fine for fitting a type IV as far as I know.

R
40hp, 6V and ...er... slowly making improvements 😂

It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!

Founding member of the Gold Coast Dub Club Inc. 🙂