Kai.A. wrote:vw flat 4 motors will never be high revving motors!!!! kai😎
Never say never.😉 plenty of VW's producing the revs. Peter Gumleys supercharged T4 revs past 8000rpm no probs.
to produce that type of HP (300hp) from a normally aspirated 4cyl you will always need high revs. That's why the Nissan is producing the power at over 8000rpm.
If only VW's had another two bearings holding the crank !!
yeh. 8000 is probably around about the limit for a race motor.
we'll never get 10,000 plus like motorbikes though....
and if reliability is an issue then it'll definately never reach those kind of revs....
if you read some of the power outputs the americans are getting, often from 'claimed' street driven cars, you've gotta wonder really, 300hp isn't too extreme for them....
kai
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
I had a look at that Russ Fellows drag car from your suggested web site................he is only doing 14.01 without the turbo:jesus......................we have plenty of normally aspirated cars in the 13's !
Craig Torrens wrote:I had a look at that Russ Fellows drag car from your suggested web site................he is only doing 14.01 without the turbo:jesus......................we have plenty of normally aspirated cars in the 13's !
i don't know the details of his run/runs without the turbo, but it's simple really, the engine is built for turbo, it runs cam profiles best suited for a turbo and low compression.
so it's not surprising that without the turbo it doesn't run that strong.
kai
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
yeh, i know cam wants it normally aspirated.... the best example i have found so far is the yellow cabrio, but then he uses NOS to get the power.....
i spose really i'm putting forward my view that if you want big power you shouldn't overlook turbos, it's fairly proven that you can get huge power and reliability on pump fuel...
kai
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Ahh yes but he was quite specific in using type 1 clobber!
Fact remains is that to get 150BHP/litre is close to unnatainable with anything we can get our grubby little hands on and furthermore, I doubt iffen I could get that much from a dak dak id be buggered if I would let anyone in on the secret!!!!!!!!!
However, every man has his price................
:thumb
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
a few ideas i have been toying with..... bore and stroke ??? 69 or smaller stroke prob.
al case, through bolted. crank... make it with larger main and rod journals, poss narrow the rod journals and widen the mains... all to try and reduce crank flex.
94mm+ p & c. move the studs if necessary.
some form of overhead springless valve accuation, possibly set up to advance/retard the valve timing (not only crank angle timing but comparitive inlet and exhaust timing) to keep the thing on the boil.
a serious redesign of the heads... 2,3,4,5 valves??? twin plugs for monster compression. ports designed to reduce reverse flow so you can stretch the duration. designed by someone who can get the charge in and out and get the most out of it along the way. ie a top end race motor head designer.
if you want to stretch the power band... a system that will change the legnth of the intake and exhaust manifolds.
make as much as possible out of super expensive alloys. (bragging rights)
use every heat/surface treatment you can think of
find the most skilled and anal retentive balancer (and machinest etc too) in the world to work on it.
etc etc.
now who wants to throw say $20 or 30 million my way, i know i can do it (or at least find the people who can). anyone?
Ultimately that big HP in a beetle motor IS unrealistic. I can see it happening. But it would take US VWDRC team budgets and research to achieve it.
I do want snap on power though. Guess I've been out of fast dubs for too many years now 🙁
However... We have the weight advantage. But, I still think boost is the answer.
I like the idea of having it type 1 based. They're just LIGHT motors... And lets face it the less weight out back the better.
911 head conversion will be a must! As will 911 nikies. Blueprinting the induction so as the turbo is working as little as possible to make to most boost is also a must.
The bottom line... I dunno, it's good friday. I'm dog tired and unsure enough of my digestive system (chocolate aftermath) at the moment let alone where I'd like to go with an engine.
But I think this makes a great topic of conversation 😀
For some reason I don't think bearing strength would be much of an issue. But yeah, boost is the answer for our little four bangers!
cam, the stuff about increasing the bearing size is to increase the overlap of the journals and the meat in the journals.... to help increase the stregnth and reduce the flex in the crank.... ie to reduce the amount of hp lost and increase engine/case life. if you narrowed the rod journals and didn't widen the mains you could increase the web thickness... more strength.
desmo is a system that ducati used (in the 70's?), that uses a system of cams and levers to open AND CLOSE the valves. they origonally came with helper springs to help close the valves, but i think it was a common thing to remove them. ie while there was in increase in reciprocating weight, the engines weren't working against heavy springs to open the valves and they couldn't bounce (well noone told me they couldn't bounce but to me it is logical that they couldn't... unless you broke something 🙂 ). a quick search should find you more info.
Youre pretty close with the desmodromic thing.
Altho desmodromic (desmo for short) is exclusively used on Ducati bikes, the design has been around since Adam was a boy, gawd only knows when and was in use im pretty sure well before ww2.
The system is not really that tech actually (other than from a design viewpoint) with the camshaft having 2 lobes per valve per cylinder which are mirror images of each other and a typical rocker opening the valve with another rocker working on its own rocker shaft mounted below the opening rocker shaft that works off the "other lobe" that closes the valve.
Valve clearences are set by opening "shims" (lash caps) and different thicknesses of the closing shims.
The valve itself has ordinary grooves machine into it and the groove located the collets that retain the closing shim, like an ordinary machined down spring retainer 'cept upside down. The closing rocker looks like a fork on the valve end and operates on the underside of the closing "shim".
Yes, there is a "hairspring" around the closing rocker shaft but the benifits of removing it in all but the most wild of race engines is pretty doubtful, you can push the closing rocker down against the "spring" with your little finger.
Benefits of desmo gear is little rotational resistance due to no springs and the valves are positively closed and cannot ever bounce.
Disadvantages are mostly from a design viewpoint, particularly in getting the included valve angles necessary to make a decent head work to actually be able to exploit the rpm ranges that desmo actuation will benefit and fitting in extra valves, its a nightmare from that standpoint.
I think a fundamental drama with getting the type of zing necessary here is that an oldefashioned crakcases are just a bit too flexible. I dont think that Ferdinand had 10,000 + RPM in mind when pencilling in the Peoples Wagon engine!
This is enough of a hassle with blown low rev krauts now. With the cases stretching all over the show!.
There are quite a few F1 engine builders tackling this very type of thing as we speak!!!!!!LOL
L8tr Men
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
If you destroked it to say 64mm, used a b piston or even a piston with a higher pin height (into the oil control ring) you would significantly reduce the width of the engine, could probably even run a slightly shorter rod.
This would help reduce the length (and weight) of the pushrods.
Changing the oiling system to the heads so it fed and drained without running through the pushrod would help.
The 6mm stem valves available and lightweight lifters allow use of single springs to 8500 RPM.
The case is the limiting factor, aftermarket cases with through bolts at the mains are a good start (performance technology, scat, new CB case ???)
One of the highest HP I have heard of in a T1 case is 260 NA, the car ran 10.60 in the 1/4, Geoff Hart racing in the US. I am pretty sure it was a 2332 running 62mm terminator carbs, drags only though.
If you want that HP on the track and still have it streetable then turbo is the easiest answer. Crank up the boost, pour in the race gas and your off !!
spoke to the owner of the grey C&V drag beetle on easter saturday. While the car the was tyre spinning across it's lane it was over running into the 10,500-11,000rpm bracket.😠
Really serious stuff.
He's running a big dollar Pauter engine with draw through 4barrel holley/turbo setup. This means he can't run a rev limiter. He's already learn't that lesson. Blew up a plennum on the start line because of pooling fuel and nitrous while the rev limiter was working.
He said he doesn't know how much power the car is producing exactly as they can't strap it to the dyno well enough, it comes on boost and frys the tyres ON THE DYNO!.
He reckons it's producing around the 500hp (at the crank) mark with low boost and no Nitrous.
Without a turbo that might be the sort of power and revs your talking about, but I reckon it's bigger than 2332 and the engine would have to be worth in excess of $50k.
BIG dollars :o
Just a thought, why not cut some toyota 20valve heads in half and fab up some stuff to fit them to a boxer. With the destroking and big revs it might come close. Ferrari have been producing powerful, hi-revving boxers for decades, haven't they? 😉
did any of you guys see a report on a slip-yoke (I think that was the name for it) set up for subaru boxers designed here in australia.
It had a single conrod (joined in the middle) going across the motor that connected with a piston at each end. The crank only had two rod journals. One for each conrod. The crank went in the middle and it had a slip bearing in the middle that was 0 shaped so the rod only moved laterally, not in a circular motion. This cuts down on side loads or something to make the engine smoother and revs more comfortably. Spose you could make one for an aircooled engine. However you would need a special crank and it would change the firing order. Does anyone know if onyone has used this setup before?
If it has been used before on say a BMW bike, you could steel the conrods from that and make up a crank to suit. It would also give you more room inside the case to add extra length for the case bearing journals.
What do you reckon?
Just another idea. 🙂
I think that another limiting factor is the essential design of the case. There are only 3 main bearings that support the crank with the 4th for the pulley. A EJ20T has a bearing between each journal which is much stronger which stops the crankshaft from flexing. in the type 1 case the studs are only threaded into soft magnesium, the type 4, porsche and scooby have through bolts which make much more sense.
Also the heads are pretty limiting, unless you manage to fit heads from another car on. The wedge combustion chamber design works on squish, the spark plug position is at an angle to the side. A modern head has 4 valves, pentroof chamber with teh sparkplug in the dead centre at the top. The chamber is designed for swirl, have u seen the Alfa Romeo JTS system? It utilises direct injection into the cylinder.
I dont think that a streetable and durable 300HP is likely from a N/A type 1 motor which uses at least a factory case - short of a small fortune pumped into the motor.
I am not criticising the design of the type 1, it was advanced for its time - but you would be kidding yourself if you are putting it on the same level as a modern motor such as the EJ20T.
I do dream of building a turbo 1916 or 2110 or something similar though 🙂 Shoehorning in a EJ20T would be too easy 🙂
What ever happened to the SPG Roller Cranks? Difficult setup with oil sprayers and all but they could rev! A guy I knew in the early eighties had a Manx with a 2180, 48IDAs with one. The thing would wheelstand easy.
It's all research and development.The old AUTOCAVEN rally cross beetle had a 2.1 t1 subaru 16valve head conversion and turbo I think it was making 500bhp.I hung out with some guys in texas who did chevys and the research they put into the old 2 valve pushrod motor was just amazingIn 1992 we dynoed a 403 cui splayed valve chevy with carburators on race gas made 980hp@ about 9800rpm if I rember correctly(this was the boss's engine.Another engine the same specs less 2 little tricks only made 910hp.So dyno time is where its at or using proven parts and info.P.S. In the NHRA PROSTOCK class the development costs for 1 hp are $100,000 U.S.
it's all about research and devolpment and the physical limits of your particular mechanical combo.There is a formula that can give you max hp of a particular engine I can't recall exactly but it's got to do with valve area vs pistion area it's a pretty complex deal but they use it for F1.All engines are air pumps so a lot of tricks will transfer across to the vw engine,not all will work thats why they call it R+D.As for the small block chevy I hung out with some real texans that ran a pair of B/Altereds(oldsmobile cutlas) in 1992 (very simular to our pro stockers)402cui splayed valve heads dominators vpc18 fuel yada yada it made 980hp @9600rpm (723@178ph) another identical engine with a normal firing order and angled intake(conventional) made 70 hp less.They say in prostock in the USA it will cost you $100.000 U.S for 1 HP.I say keep your eyes open and look every where for secrets because if guys with 1400hp engines are looking for 1-2 hp they will try anything it might take a while but the numbers soon add up after all it's only money right.haha