I need a new gearbox for my 63 splitty and am tossing up on whether to get a 64-67 box to tide me over for the next few years, or get a loan and IRS it now. Can anyone who’s been there or knows please give me a rough idea as to what it would cost? Ie, the kit and installation as I haven’t got the know how, time or space to do it… Cheers!
anyone??
ive gone and will be going again straigh axle conversion. but you should u2u fish and chat with him. he got bits and did it himself.
but i am sure you would have mechs who could do it all for you.
Simply Cruzin'...
You're going back to swing axle? Why's that?
he said straight axle not swing.
A straight axle conversion is where you use a beetle box and modify it to fit in a split and so do away with the reduction boxes.
It is a cheaper conversion and lowers the rear about 2 and a half inches.It should only cost a couple of hundred dollars to do if you have a beetle box ,compared with a couple of grand for irs if you buy new cv's and have someone do it for you.
Search for straight axle conversions on this site.
Rob (splitbusaustralia) has posted about this a number of times.
I have gone straight axle due to cost factors and my bus will only be used on weekends and it will only have a 1600 so wont be a speed demon.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Dave
Thanks 57, that may well be just what I need atm... I'll have a look around...
While I;'m here though, can anyone point me to a site which explains in laymans term how IRS/swing axle/straight axles work, preferably with diagrams?? Cheers
sorry, no pics diagrams sites but.
look at your reduct hub backend. it has axles coming out of the trans case on a joint to reduction hubs at the plates and then the hub. as the body of the bus moves up and down, the tyre angles against the ground
a strait axle conversuin basically looks the same without the reduction boxes. as a result the backend looses the red box lift, retains swing axle operation and gets the cheaper & more available beetle box.
irs is a double jointed arrangement where the axle leaves the trans case at a joint to a short axle and then another joint at the spring plates and hubs. no reduction boxes but to hold it all in place another pivoting arm is welded to the torsion tube to hold the outer joint in place. this arrangement is more complex but keeps the wheel flat on the ground throughoput its travel as opposed to having it angle against the ground.
crawl under a superbug and have a look. its pretty clear when you compare them against each other...
Have a look at any West Coast Metric catalogue on the floorpan section and you will see the left of the gearbox shows the IRS config whilst the right shows swing axle
Steve
matara wrote:... you will see the left of the gearbox shows the IRS config whilst the right shows swing axle
Steve
The handling on that VW must be interesting to say the least....
Peter Hill
1975 Type 2 Double Cab
modulus.com.auThat's awesome, thanks heaps 57kombi, helterskleter and matara! Will be researching it in the next few days but that might be the solution I'm looking for. The miussus is yelling at me to "get off that bloody aussieveedubbers!" so gotta go!
you can buy the IRS kit from Kimm at Indian Automotive in Sydney. comes with the bushes and trailing arms you need to the rear but you need to buy a 1968/69 rear end to have all the bits and pieces you need to finish it. no welding at all. you need a beetle L bug box, beetle CV joints one end and kombi to the wheels. you can lower it as much or as less as you want with the torsion bars. i lowered it about 3 inches. it's low. here's a pic (hopefully) cheers, fish
if its a daily driver spend money and go irs if its only a sunday driver go straight axle and save your dollars don't forget though you have to lower the front as well and that aint cheap either
i dont think it matters if its your daily or not. it really would just be a personal preference. our split is a daily driver. we go anywhere and i dont hold back. we have a straight axle conversion and have no probs or misgreivences about it.
handles great and goes a treat. and i will be doing the same for the dcab. better i think to use me money with a four wheel disc brake conversion and narrowed ball joint front beam, than irs. 😎
Simply Cruzin'...
I've had a good look into it over the last couple of weeks and I think I'll go IRS. Reasons: 1. IRS boxes are easier to find, 2. Straightaxle conevrsion will mean I have to lower the front as well and a bit short of funds atm, 3. I'm told it's not easy to get to the tyres with four inch lowered straight axle conversion (someone said unless you have realy low profile tyres you have to remove the axle to change tyres??), 4. Straight axle sounds a little dodgy to me, not sure how dept of transport would like it... basically, I reckon IRS won't cost me too much more now and is an all round better option.
dont know who told you your info. (hmmm maybe i have an idea) but it sounds all a little bias. i dont have to remove anything other than my rim to change my tire. yeah you do need to lower the front, but a set of spindles and the staight axle conversion and your done and still a lot cheaper than the irs route, and you have a better ride height and a much better look (i s'pose altitude is a personal choice). there is no problem with the rta or safety with a straight axle conversion. i can tell you i have given mine the full treatment and no worries.
it is a simple case of 'do i feel a desire...' and not all the reasons. good luck with your conversion, anyway.
Simply Cruzin'...
Have finally decided to go straight axle rather than IRS!
It was very difficult to come to a decision as EVERY person I spoke to had a different opinion... but, despite hearing otherwise from different sources, I've decided a professionaly done straight axle conversion will be a very good solution...
IRS is going to be exy ($3-4k and it will still be stock height)... but so is straight axle (probably $3k give or take a couple hundred). But it will be a simple conversion (and easier to work on in the future) and low (which I wanted to do down the track if I had IRS'd it anyway).
If anyone's interested in what makes up the $3k:
$1485 for apparently good 1500 beetle box with modified axles fitted and other necessary bits and pieces included from Custom Bugs and Buses;
$418 for adjustable front beam to lower the front to the same height as the rear;
$100 for shipping from Sydney to Gold Coast (complete guess, anyone know who's the cheapest and best?);
$600 for 10 hours labour by mechanic to install;
Total = $2603 (with a few hundred spare jic) = quiet, cruising, low bus!
Unfortunately I can't afford to fit disks yet but that's next, along with slowly doing up the interior... will post before and after pics soon...
Thanks all for the helpful input!
:bounce
I don't generally like to comment on these things but:
The axles you need are 'long' beetle or type3 axles (they're stock).
Axles tubes with short end castings have to be lengthened 28mm.
Bus springplates are modified the the beetle end casting pattern and notched for clearance against the bump stop.
Use Type1, pre 63 bus (better) or Type3 (better) rear drums.
So, assuming a good 1500 box (as opposed to reco) is worth around $250 you're paying around $1200
for the convenience of a kit that can be made from cheapish
2nd hand parts and paying someone to do a bit of welding
and cutting to lengthen the axle tubes and modify the springplates?
An alternative for IRS is to buy two of Dave Palmers
(creative Engineering) weld in chassis legs for about $300 landed.
Pay someone to weld em in in the right position and then IRS bits from a 68/69 bus bolt straight in.
You have to spring for an IRS beetle box (about $250 again). Note this is not an easily reversible mod but those
who IRS rarely go back. This method also maintains the
original 68/69 IRS geometry and control arms etc.
I don't normally like to comment on prices because these shops
do have overheads etc they have to build into their
prices....but it can be done somewhat cheaper if with less convenience.
regards
RobK
[Edited on 13-5-2004 by splitbusaustralia]
for a good how to on a straight axel conversion go to the samba ,click on forums ,click on split section then click on how to lower your bus, look down the posts and you will find a very well detailed hot to on a straight axel conversion
I hear what you're saying and agree with you Rob but I have limited mechanical skills and knowldege, and no garage at the moment. I've also had a fair bit of difficulty trying to track down the required parts. I'm also without a car at the moment so I have to have it done pretty quickly.
The only 1500 beetle box I've been able to find has been $350 and in an unguaranteed condition. I've found an unregistered 1964 type 3 for $200 but have nowhere to store it and no use for it after I pull the axles out. I imagine it would be hard to move without axles!?
If anyone has all the knowledge and parts I need and can get back to me within the next couple of days I'd be very happy to talk to them. Otherwise I'm going to go the no mess, no fuss, expensive but professional option...
i have been told they fit and while your at it you can use the rear brakes, (bigger and better) more food for thought
no point worrying about t3 brakes. once youve done the conversion, just save the extrra and then order the disc brake kits. they are a treat. i have all four discs and she stops sweet as.
im not supa mechanical. actually prolly a tad lazy, so thats why i enjoy using CBB. everything is done good straight up. thats why the utes there and about to get the treatment youre talking about bus256. discs, straight axle conversion, adjusters, and ball joint narrowed beam.
jsut like the bus.
[Edited on 14/5/2004 by twoguns]
[Edited on 14/5/2004 by twoguns]
Simply Cruzin'...
