Hi all I have a 1600 TP that came with my oval. The owner had said that the Cam was worn and it was a no go I tried starting it but id did notr seem to pump very well , i removed the fuel pump looks OK checked the diaphram looks OK , turned the motor over the pump rod goes up and down. So I put some fuel directly in the carbs and it fires but still no fuel comes through. It has twin webbers and the fuel plumbing looks quite conveluted but i dont know. I remember reading about 6 and 12 v fuel pump rods being different in length so I am thinking that this is a possible cause?
I pulled the motor out now and have checked outr the rocker movement they move but I dont know how much reach to expect so I cannot say if the cam lobes have been flatenned.
Any ideaa on the length of the rods 6& 12v and the actuation of the rocker arms?
Or do I just pull it down and have a look at the cam?
Mitchell Thanks in advance all you gurus
:o😠😠
23 windows ...8 too many!
This may sound really stupid, But are the fuel lines on the right sides of the pump? have you worked your way back up the system? eg fuel being pumped into the carbs?, fuel coming out of the fuel pump? fuel going into the fuel pump? fuel leaving the tank?
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
If there was any fuel in the carburetors, the fuel may be stale as it doesn't take long these days to go off..
I left fuel in My carby for a few months, and it turned into a horrible looking substance... and blocked everything up...
Can You pull the hose off the inlet side of the pump to see if fuel is coming from the tank? then if its pumping fuel out..
and if the needle & seats are working OK in the carbs..
sorry, I don't know anything about Webers.. or the difference between 6v & 12v pump levers..
Maybe, if the camshaft is worn, the pump rod may be worn too.. My Haynes manual says the pump lift - measured at the top of the rod- it should be 4mm difference between Highest & lowest...
You might be better off with an electric fuel pump... I bought Mine off ebay..
Best of Luck..
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
6 and 12 volt pushrods are the same, alternator ones are shorter than generator.
FAHRVERGNUGEN;
Description of a pleasurable sensation,
Experienced when a car and it's driver are in mutual harmony, A unique driving experience, Pleasure, Satisfaction,
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yep.
alternator or generator only. gen have longer pushrod.
alternator model pump on the right
generator pump on the left
notice height of pivot
You need to measure the lift at the valve with a dial indicator, do one head only both the inlet and exhaust valves. If all measurements are within a few thou then the cam is sweet.
The other check is to drain the oil and check the sumpplate and filter thingy, chuck a magnet in there, cam filings are magnetic (iron mostly).
Fuel supply, I would turf all the old fuel lines from the tank back, blow out the line through the tunnel with compressed air, drain the tank and wash out any crap that is in it, then at least you know its clear from there back.
Also check the small filter under the fuel tank..
Mine was terrible.. You can buy replacement filters... but I just added a standard type of fuel filter under the tank before it goes into the tunnel..
If the tank has been out, check that the hose under the fuel tank isn't crimped... a common problem...
Incidently, You can use an alternator Fuel Pump anywhere...
Generator or Alternator.. Its just that the Generator pumps are too high...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
