Ok (63 swing axle, std drum brakes..)prob is, both handbrake cables snapped, now trying to crack the 36mm nuts... I think the mechanics used pneumatic(sorry if wrong word! air tools?lol).. drill to (over?) tighten nuts (not rusted only done a few months ago... I cannot budge them with cheat bar, etc).... any handy hints or will I head down to nearest mechanics in morning(14 odd k's away) and get them to crack them,, then scurry out back and fit cables there?lol.
Annoying thing is it's been a day of frustration, for something which should only take a few mins......
has anyone managed to replace cables without taking drum off? (was getting desperate this evening, began eying off the little brake adjustment holes..... 😠 mmm thin screwdriver......keyhole surgery.....I am sure I could do it.....)
best handy hint wins a free broken brake cable?????lol:P
Long piece of pipe on a set of stilsens ( that is realy not how you spell that I am sure) seems to work ok but now I have the rattle gun to do them 😉
.
I used a big bit of pipe over the breaker bar which gave me about 7 foot of leverage. I think the left hand side is left hand thread, I know it is on the front of a spiltty and I havnt touched the left hand rear yet. The nuts are torqued up to 200 plus pounds so it does take a lot of effort to get it going
Nicko
That all good but to make it easy get a big hammer........
I'm not kidding. Get your cheat bar put pressure on it and tap the nut. The jar will losen it. If that dosn't work hit it harder. make sure you do them up the right torque when your done....
thanks for the suggestions!
:cry I want a "rattle gun" too-oo! I think the nuts need a really forceful jolt to crack them.
mmmm forgot all about the steilsons (or watever they are called) have 2 in my kit lol........ gunna get it in end, I am not going to let a stupid nut defeat me!
did pipe thing ( snapped 2 tools today too)!
am now doing all the work things i was sposed to do today.... waiting for mechanics to open tomorrow........ will chuck cables and jack in car and do some roadside repairs! (I think the locals are growing used to seeing me stopped on side of road fixing things!lol)
(I got the two off the spare bug .. getting to cables .. used angle grinder and big chisel :thumb but can't use that method on this one...).... dodgey? who u callin dodgey.....:P
ohh, will give all the above suggestions,, just... one.. more.. go......... then admit defeat and ask to use some pro tools!😀
Heather your a dead set LEGEND when it comes to bodge it up i'mm sure you can do it again.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
The axle nuts needs to be that tight or it will come loose I think that its 220ftb for 36mm axle nuts. but I do mine at 240ftb
I hope it works for you
Regard's
Chris
Chris you actually!!!!! measure the torque not just f#%(ing tight.I'd like to see that.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
A Westwood wrote:Chris you actually!!!!! measure the torque not just f#%(ing tight.I'd like to see that.
Yeh I do, I have a 3/4 torque wrench and a torque multiplyer.
:P
But fu#*ing tight, tight will do. lol
A Westwood wrote:Chris you actually!!!!! measure the torque not just f#%(ing tight.I'd like to see that.
Guess what Andrew. I do.
I have a 2x Torque multiplier and a 200ft/lbs selectable clicking torque wrench. So I set the torque wrench to 120 and do up the nut. Easy. If you have the right equipment why not do it right? If I didn't have the right equipment dad would buy it or make it anyway.
ps. Dad made the 2x torque multiplier so we could do this very task
🙂If you can"t budge bring it to Gatton and drop out to vanderfields Market Drive, ask for BJ and I will assist you. If not give me a call at work 5462 2566 and I may be able to come on help you tonite if you wish.
...hmmm, rattle gun makes it all easy - even removes nuts from axels when box is out of the car! I used to remove them with a breaker bar and a long piece of pipe, broke a number of breaker bars doing it this way!
Rattle gun is the best way to get the axle nuts off - and they are not all that expensive - but you need an air compressor to run mine, and that is the expensive bit! (but it's oh so useful!)
As for replacing the handbrake cables without removing the drum....with the aid of your angle grinder you could remove large chunks of the backing plate and then.... nah, just joking! The only way is to remove the drum.
Good luck,
R
40hp, 6V and ...er... slowly making improvements
😂
It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
Founding member of the Gold Coast Dub Club Inc. 🙂that's the advantage of type 3 4-stud drums, the drum is seperate to the hub, so you don't have to remove the 36mm nut to change the handbrake cables. 🙂
Oh, and both rear nuts are right-hand thread. Left hand thread is only on the front wheel.
I find a rattle gun works well, but a torque multiplier is the best. Both of which you don't have...
I once had a piece of RHS with holes drilled to take two wheel studs. I used this to bolt to the drum so you can hold the drum still.
Then I used a breaker bar with a cheater pipe to undo the nut. Sometimes if you were lucky a 1/2" breaker bar would work, but I did break one so stopped doing that (thank god for Repco's replacement policy). I then moved on to a 3/4" breaker bar, before moving on to rattle guns and torque multipliers.
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
If all else fails get a suitable cold chisel and place the point down between the castelations on the nut (were the split pin goes) and split the nut. Make sure you dont damage the thread on the axle. Make sure the wheel is on the ground too. Wear eye and hand protection.
:thumb the handy hint winners are... steilsens (or watever they are called... was def on tight bent handles on both of mine!!!!).... bar and big hammer! ohhh and a bicycle wheel ... opps I mean std bug wheel......lol......
u2u me 4 collecton of broken cable prize!!
worked out have to find the sweet spot pressure wise then bash the crap out of knobbly bit on steilson (or watever dey called)......
no mechanic required,, have brokend every nail..bruised hand (when hammerhead flew off!!!lol)..bu-ut I now have handbrakes again...
ahh u peeps wif the right tools and exotic drums.....go jump!
Thanx 4 tips, I know wat to put in my eventual bigbaja.....( not wot
I have now!)lol.....
on downside,, I knew if I opened up back end I would see wat I paid big $$ to not to have done....... but thats next weeks drama's...... :cussing
mmmmm I smell so-oo manly now! :thumb... and yes took it 4 drive... the wheles did not fall off!!!!!
You comming to meeting Next week $2?
You need help again..... let me know..
Tazz
1962 Type3 Squareback
1967 Type3 Fastback "Kermit"
The truth is important. It will set you free
I broke two 1/2 " breaker bars undoing mine...
Many books just say to use 5 foot of pipe on the end of a breaker bar to do & undo....
3/4 drive is preferable.....
Problem is that when using stillsons or a large shifter is that they put pressure on the nut where the slits are, so they are actually pushing the nut into the thread...
Can AntiSeize be used on these nuts??
they can't come off, one because of the torque used,
two because of the split pin...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
$2.63 homebrand baja wrote:no mechanic required,, have brokend every nail..bruised hand (when hammerhead flew off!!!lol)..bu-ut I now have handbrakes again...
mmmmm I smell so-oo manly now! :thumb... and yes took it 4 drive... the wheles did not fall off!!!!!
Ummm I'm lookin' for a new pit crew LOL :thumb
68AutoBug wrote:Can AntiSeize be used on these nuts??
they can't come off, one because of the torque used,
two because of the split pin...
Lee
I don't know but I use it and had no prob's (that copper one) I also use R clips instead of splitpins. But thats me...
Mate the easiest way to get these buggers of is to invest in a solid 3/4 inch drive. i.e. not a rachet. Put your 36mm socket on the end and then leverage leverage leverage. It will undo anything. I have this set up with a ten foot pool. Put it on jump up and down on the end and off she comes.
Leverage is good for most stubborn screws as well. Put your screw driver on the screw then find a socket that fits the end of your screw driver. One normally always does then apply your socket apply pressure to the screw driver and turn. The leverage will normally mean more control and about five times more power than turning the screw driver with your hands.
But too late now as you have it off. :thumb
The usual problem is 250 ft lb + some rust.
Thread should be lubricated when torqueing it up.
Use permatex no3 and it wont rust on.
lexm wrote:The usual problem is 250 ft lb + some rust.
Thread should be lubricated when torqueing it up.
Use permatex no3 and it wont rust on.
:P now u tell me.lol. permatex no3? cool. knowing my festybug.. will prob b taking them off again soon to fix something or other! :beer
