hey. i have decided to stick with the 1600 motor for the time being. i currently have a 1600 with dual kadrons (thats all as far as i know). i was wondering what sort of modifications would be good for some extra power and a not so high price. any help with this would be greatly appreciated. and by not so high priced i mean. not thousands.
Thanks, Anthony
no i havnet. lol. but i will be sure to take a look at it now. and another question. what kind of work is required in order to fit a nice set of 17 inch wheels on the car??
thanks had a look at that site. was interesting. but the only real major change i could see was the rockers. the exhaust and extractors i have already got aswell. just looking for a substantial increase. any ideas from people that have done anything?
Sorry dude i was thinking you didnt want to split the case,since your thinking about opening the case, start with a counterweighted crank 90.5 or 94mm pistons and cylinders then yule hafta bore the case and heads to match your barrels,then some heads 044s ported preferably from cbperfomance and a cam up to you from mild to wild,you can keep your kads and rejet to suite and top it off witha 009 dissy and a pertronix or somethin,get rid of your points if you still have them,anyway theres plenty of info out there but you hafta do some research or dissappointment WILL result.:thumb anyway go back to shoptalkforum and look at speed and drag racing its all in there,cheers😉
ok. i am willing to open the case. however. i am not prepared to get new heads or bore out heads as this is only a temporary engine in the car. i am to do an EJ20T conversion somewhere along the line. i am just looking for a little more grunt from the 1600. would like it to stay as a 1600. any ideas?. sorry for not telling you all this info before
Other than that a counterwieghted crank, a port and polish is all that can be done extra to the aircooled.net article.
Check out iswinkles post http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=23648
about his new engine and his web page- his old engine was a 1640 turbo. What ever you do it's gonna cost $$$$ Might be best to stick with it as it and save for the Subi
And question 2:
If you want to fit big wheels to a super you'll need to go slim coil spring front struts. V-force (Vintage Vee Dub as well?) are your best bet for these.
Check out the forums at http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/frameset.html but basically you'll need to redrill (dirty word is Australia I believe - so insert the words "drill blank hubs(rotors)") to a more common stud pattern (eg 4 x 100), choose wheels with a low offset (close to the beetle wheels ~ 40mm max) and ideally no wider than 6 inches wide for the front.
thats cool. cos i am fitting falcon discs to rear. and am thinking of converting front to 5 stud pattern at the same time. what is the price of some slim coil spring front struts?
found a pretty good site for wheels. if anyone knows of any better ones please let me know. for now i am looking at
well I think you will find you have all the cheap mods, if ur splitting the case you might aswell go to a 1776 or 1916, and then some mild port and polish and a new cam.
try v force for narrow springed struts (approx $1000 last time i checked) (whole strut not just the spring) or i think u can get tapered springs, but not sure where. for the wheel and tyre converision ur looking at alot of money.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
well I have done some prelim scoping my self, but in the thousands. try jak rizzo on here as he runs 17's and brake upgrade
but think this way
$1000- new front struts
$600-2000 for wheels
$600 to 200 for decent tyres
$200 to 1000 for front brakes -dependant on type- eg larger rotors and new calipers or just redrilled std disks
$400 to 1500 for rear brakes
now that is buying all it new etc. best person to tlak to is jak. or try beetle
but if you can do ur own machining work and get cheaper parts it would be better. or the other option is last time i rpiced it new set of simmoins wheels in vw 4 stud pattern (custom drilled) cost about $2000 but that was a few yrs ago.
If you don't want to pull it apart (keeping cost down) then Kadrons, extractors and a 009 is the most practical changes you can really do.
If you want to pull it down( but keeping it 1600), then fully balance and machine all parts to spec, change the cam (pobjoy 37/68 is a good all rounder), raise the compression to 8.5:1, fit a hgh volume oil pump to cope with the added revs, and then rejet the kadrons to suit. Use a 1 1/2 inch merged extractors or a set of thunderbirds.
Your other option re struts is to run the stock struts with Topline tapered spring, allows more clearance in the middle for wide wheels - check that they don't fowl the bottom spring cup on the strut though.
they are the ones i would be interested in. 7 inch width i think. and i am getting falcon rear discs. and thinking of converting front to 5 stud aswell.
tell me what you think of my options. should work out less than the figures you wrote above
ok. i have made a final decision. get my motor up and running. well serviced. and rebuilt. so it runs smooth. and have steering sorted out .etc. and get falcon brakes. then. i decided that i will if im going to go rims. go all the way. and get 18 inch rims. no point doing it unless u r gonna do it properly. and then after i get rims sorted out. search for a rebuilt shell. (i got a quote of 5 grand to rebuild mine). cant afford that. so looking for one that has had work already done. does not matter what colour it comes in if any colour. anyone know of one or any help on this would be greatly appreciated. and after i get the body looking smooth and schmick. i will then start on motor.
ok. the steering problem. at about 40 or 50 mph i think it is. the steering wheel shakes like a person with epilepsy at a rave. any ideas what the problem is and how to fix it??
ok if you pull a motor down measure the id of the bearing dia you will find its out of round .I do not take any short cuts and have all ways re sized con rods.
if you dont the bearing after a short run would be like a egg if you measure it .
this also help as I have a trade back ground as an fitter / machinest
:thumb
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
hey man. yeah. i shall DEFINATELY get this done. as my car is running terribly. do u know where armadale is?. well we and a few mates took my car out one day. from armadale to perth and back used about 20 -25 bucks of fuel. is this normal?. what could the problem be. and it was not leaking fuel as far as we could see. Do you know anything about the shuddering of the steering wheel?
sorry. was writing this post while you were replying desert moose. lol. sorry
yes I know its where that is ,I have been to that court house a few times .
the problem is your car is old needs work .
you would be better to get a motor from another car and rebuild that , find a F case supper bug semi auto .
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
heh. i was at the courthouse just today. lol. umm. i would prefer to stick with the engine i have now. simply for cost factor. rebuilding this engine should fix this problem shouldnt it?. the engine was not doing anywhere near as bad fuel consumtion when my brother was driving it. (about 6 or 7 months it has been off the road). but after about 5 months of it being off the road. we decided to start her up and see what its still like. ran well. made it to about 120 no worries. but fuel consumption was bad. was a fuel leak to start. tightened things up. fixed that (we think). so do you not think rebuilding this engine would fix that problem of fuel consumption. other than that it ran ok. i amnew to the veedub scene. i was a big import fan a while back and still am. just since i seen what these vw's can do and since i came into posession of one i have just fallen in love with them.
heh. of course a subaru is better. HHAHAHAHAH. nah i am the good guy. i was filing for a restraining order. dont worry :sandrine . but this engine is just a temporary thing that will hopefully keep me mobile. and then when i have the exterior nice and schmick. worry about getting those big 17/18's that i want to spin 😉
