bugeyedbabe wrote:yogie, can u put details up, so i know what im asking for when i go into the shops...otherwise i get strange looks when i say...i want sum fingies to go into that fingy....
Ur set up looks good, and I'd rather be putting in something that doesnt require drilling/welding/ fixing or altering of the body of the car. If u've seen me weld/drill/fix...u'd know why
No worries. I will try and find the part number of the belts and the bracket as well. Will put them up probably tomorrow for you.
Yogie
How much were the repco belts?
Do they say who they were made by?
Cheers
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Chewy wrote:How much were the repco belts?
Do they say who they were made by?
Cheers
I think they were about $90 each and the company was Kimco or something like that. I will try and post a picture of the box with the part number if I still have it.
Yogie
http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=36854#pid327855
Buy new ones.. The ones to get are Klippans..
The cheapest supplier is ARFA out in Campbelltown
He is a decent guy.. 1/3 cheaper than autoone retail etc..
T: (02) 9603 3902
http://www.arfa.com.au/productlist.html
Hey Yogie, was it Hemco?
What length did you get?
thanks
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Most beetles use 300 mm stalks and stock retractables which retail at $85 ea brand new in a variety of colours.
Engineering in QLD will cost between $88 and $185 depending on who you go to.
Seats are quite easy to fit but just remember when you fit them to get engineered you often need to fit new seat belts. As I guide we charge $660 to supply and fit seats to a beetle including engineering approval. On top of this you have to pay for seat belats and mounting if req'd.
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaI couldn't find the boxes the seat belts came in or the receipt but I think it is the Klippan brand and the typw was "1532" or something similar. The 90 degree bracket came from CIP1 in America and their part number is C26-857-024 and they were US$19.95 for the pair. They call it a seat belt bracket for retractable seat belts.
Yogie
klipan also make a braket similar to the clp1
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Wish I had a clearer recollection of the setup in my S. It was in there when I bought it.
I do know it had Audi reels. There was a steel plate bolted in where the lower loop went originally. It went up 10cm or so. The reel was bolted to that. I think the lower loop was still bolted on there. Of course there was a new top thingy on the B pillar too in the original position. The setup worked quite well for me.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I just went to check that this would all work in my bug... On the passenger side the stock belt was installed properly and on the drivers side it was bolted through the pan. There was a whole for it to go in the proper place but I couldn't find a bolt to fit. Ended up taking the bolt out from through the pan and it was the original one... Put it back where it was supposed to be and all seems totally fine. So no idea why they would have gone through the pan.
Anyway, Inertia belts are definately next on my list. I don't feel totally safe in the stock ones and regardless they are a pain in the ass, especially when different sized passengers get in and you have to wait for them or help them adjust.
Tha audi belts were a tad too short. Anyone larger than average struggled to put them on.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I put VL seat belts in my oval it was just a simple matter of altering the shape of the pracket to a right angle and bolting it to the floorpan with a decent 10mm plate on the underside. I also put a tapped plate up into the semiphore hole to bolt the top plate to, this was so there wouldnt be an ugly bolt showing on the outside of the pillar, plus spread the load over a plate rather than a shitty bolt. Mine wasnt cert but it did passroad worthy, just hope i dont have to use them in a serious situation!
hey marz what you have done is right but with out certification its illegal. just cause it passed roadworth doesnt mean a thing as a roadworth is just that while the full inspection ie a blue slip in nsw also includes a design check to make sure all things like this are safe and done correctly to the standard of the ADRs
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
I'm a little confused and I think a couple of other people are too. I understand that if you mount the new seat belt through the floor pan, i.e. in a different place, then it needs to be engineered. But if you bolt it to exactially the same places as the original belt was...?
My 66 bug originally came with holes in the pan which the factory belts were fitted too.
Pretty much if you modify anything from stock like that it needs an engineering cert to remain legal.
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Ok. But that still sounds a bit wishy washy. If you were being technical then instaling new seat belts would be modified. But are you saying that if it is in the stock place then it is alright?
Ok. But that still sounds a bit wishy washy. If you were being technical then instaling new seat belts would be modified. But are you saying that if it is in the stock place then it is alright?
andy if you use the stock mounting points thats fine doesnt need engineering but if you create a new mounting point it needs to be certified. thats what i was trying to say but there are too many people on here that are blarzay about what they do and think that what they do is good enough with out finishing the job ie certification of the job. im not picking on marz personally but hes method is right just hasnt followed through fully
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Righto. Thanks. All clear on certification.
But what I have just realised is that you need two places to mount the new belts near the floor (one of the real and one of the other strap) so you are pretty much always going to need to drill through the floor pan arent you? Or is that what this 'bracket' that people were talking about does?
Righto. Thanks. All clear on certification.
But what I have just realised is that you need two places to mount the new belts near the floor (one of the real and one of the other strap) so you are pretty much always going to need to drill through the floor pan arent you? Or is that what this 'bracket' that people were talking about does?
actually the belts are 3 point mounts. they used the top mount and 2 bottom mounts. i use the stock point for one and the bracket bolted to the pan for the other. the bracket they have been talking about bolts in to the stock point near the bottom of the door pillar and comes out at 90 degrees so the real is near the rear seat going across the car
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
That sounds like a good solution then. No drilling the floor pan.
they could be but not 100% sure
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
