Chewy wrote:are you installing a new piston and/or rings?
There is little point in honing the cylinders if you are using older P+Rs
Err what?
Quite the opposite actually
A few points on cylinder honing:
Just use your hone JUST enough to "break the glaze" Aim to remove the barest minimum of metal. Dont blithely grind away in an attempt to remove each and every scratch.
The more you remove, the more rooted you engine is!
As stated before, aim to achieve a 45 degree crosshatch.
Never let the hone stop moving up and down while it is turning.
Keep the up and down movements smooth and constant. Dont slow down near the top or the bottom of the "stroke" Excessive removal of metal from the top and bottom of the bore results.
Dont use your hone to remove any lips from the top of the bore. Use a cylinder ridge remover for this.
Do NOT allow the stones to protrude out the top or the bottom of the bores. This results in excessive removal of metal as stated above and a convex shaped cylinder wall and damages the stones.
Use plenty of lubricant. Kero is ok. Ensure the hone does not "chatter" or buzz whilst turning. if it does, try another lubricant or alter the tension of the expander spring
Dont drag the hone up out of the bore when you are done resulting in verticle scratches. Stop the drill and collapse the stones by hand before removing it.
Clamp the cylinder up LIGHTLY in the vise to prevent distortion. Just tight enough to hold it steady.
Wash it thoroughly in soap and water and then dry it and coat it thoroughly with oil to prevent rusting.
Importantly, get and old cylinder and PRACTICE with it!
More damage has been done to cylinder bores by incorrect use of hones than has been fixed by many home engine fettlers.
Happy honing!!
l8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....