boof2332 Custom Title Time!
1,210 posts · joined May 2004 ·
m45
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supercharging
Mad Manx KombiKroozin
456 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
positioning is the biggest problem, even the compact mr2 charger I used is slightly too long to fit where your existing centre mount carby sits (the ideal s/c position cause its best to keep the charged intake pipes as short as posible).... they do not clear the fan shroud so either a porsch cooling shroud or off to one side like mine. I would suggest a search on s/c dimentions before settling on any one model, also check that it has its own internal lubrication system- saves having to run oil lines to it!
- '71 Kombi (Died 24/11/05😢 ) - '65 manx (smick) -'63 beetle (bent) -'73 Singlecab (new to the stable)
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
here's one that was on Fatso, an early bay bus. Can't remember who owned it but he was on the forum.
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"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
Turbo54 Veteran Volks Folk
2,220 posts · joined Jul 2004 ·
I would seriously think about what the tension does to your crank angle and upwards force. I have a had 2 vortech's on different cars and my advice after playing with these and knowing what a VW's engine bay is like...buy a turbo! They run a much simpler mounting system that can be mounted out of the engine bay and also keep heat out of the engine bay, no frictional loss with belts etc, smaller and just as cheap.
My Vortech on my V6 commodore made 238@13.5 psi and my friends turbo V6 made 280@9psi. This is because of the frictional loss of supercharging. Unless you want to do something for the 'different factor', go turbo.
Turbo54
My Vortech on my V6 commodore made 238@13.5 psi and my friends turbo V6 made 280@9psi. This is because of the frictional loss of supercharging. Unless you want to do something for the 'different factor', go turbo.
Turbo54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
Mad Manx KombiKroozin
456 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
I agree its very simple to mount a turbo and its a much more efficent design.
The reason I chose to s/c is for the extra torque at low rpm (my buggy is a sand basher and low down power is essental with out wheel spin) where a turbo's power band kicks in at a certain rpm usually somewhere above 1500rpm (unless u are running a tiny turbo) so its not really an advantage to me.... definatly for the street its the only sensible option tho 😉
[Edited on 12-6-2005 by Mad Manx]
The reason I chose to s/c is for the extra torque at low rpm (my buggy is a sand basher and low down power is essental with out wheel spin) where a turbo's power band kicks in at a certain rpm usually somewhere above 1500rpm (unless u are running a tiny turbo) so its not really an advantage to me.... definatly for the street its the only sensible option tho 😉
[Edited on 12-6-2005 by Mad Manx]
- '71 Kombi (Died 24/11/05😢 ) - '65 manx (smick) -'63 beetle (bent) -'73 Singlecab (new to the stable)
MUD BASHING ANYONE ?? Wolfsburg Wizard
591 posts · joined May 2004 ·
I bought a super the other day and am playing around with mounting it and just seeing how it all works and fits its going onto a upright type 4. The only question i have is that i was talking to a mate the other day and he tells me the ill need to run some vacum bypass system so when i get into it and back off sharply it wont try and suck the butterfly open i have seen this system and i now i knows what he is on about cause he worked on supercharged v8 race cars.
The way it works is when you back of there is a vacum senser that opens a bypass that lets the super keep pumping but the air is just circling around between the manifold and the super but what i want to know is will i need to run one of these on a low boost system like only 6 pound
any info would be great
Tim
The way it works is when you back of there is a vacum senser that opens a bypass that lets the super keep pumping but the air is just circling around between the manifold and the super but what i want to know is will i need to run one of these on a low boost system like only 6 pound
any info would be great
Tim
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
Mad Manx KombiKroozin
456 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
I run what you are talking about- its a blow back valve which I run off a vacum line hooked into my manifold under my carby. its all mechanical, got it off the mr2 I got the s/c from, the negitive vacum when backing off or clutching activates a valve which lets the compessed air back into the intake side of the s/c. The other benifit of using toyota s/c's is they run a clutch like that on a air con compressor that is electrically opperated. I have a switch on my dash that allows me to switch the s/c on and off. Would be natty if on a street car it was a pressure switch under the accelerator?
- '71 Kombi (Died 24/11/05😢 ) - '65 manx (smick) -'63 beetle (bent) -'73 Singlecab (new to the stable)
OvalGlen Custom Title Time!
1,361 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Turbo 54 have you seen first hand the result of that
vertical force on the crank due to the belt tension.?
I am interested because I am going to do this style of tensioning.
I imagine the first signs would be Massive oil leaks from the closest oil seal, is that what you saw?
vertical force on the crank due to the belt tension.?
I am interested because I am going to do this style of tensioning.
I imagine the first signs would be Massive oil leaks from the closest oil seal, is that what you saw?
Regards,Glenn>