first
well one day i will get this kombi on the road and running right. Well the dramas continue. Sunday ready to take it to Klub Fest and discover a fuel leak from carbie and discover it has filled no 4 cylinder with fuel so engine doesn't turn over. thought it may be needle and seat but after a quick clean it is still leaking. Off comes the carb and a full reco and all is well. Check the oil in motor after a quick run and surprise surprise it is a mixture of oil and fuel. so much for new mobil 1. so now i will do another oil change and await next challenge. At least it is a great way to get to know and bond with her. well this is fixed had the carbie makeover and new kit through them
[Edited on 19/5/2005 by Wag67]
[Edited on 19/5/2005 by Wag67]
for a hands free Baby bottle holder check out
http://www.babygear4u.comthe fuel pump diafram isn't stuffed is it?
needle and seats sound like being stuck open..
a common thing when i had previous kombis very annoying..
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
fuel pump, common problem!
Andy
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out
www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only..
Yep, search the old posts, it is a common problem on three counts:
Fuel pump
Needle, seat
poor design.
You still running the mechanical pump? If they are working correctly they do not let free flow of fuel through which causes this problem. Some electric ones do which is not good.
Leaking needle and seat can cause it.
POOR design!! When you park a VW bum down a hill the float can hold the needle open. With the main jet behind the float bowl it can continually drip into the throat. Try parking either on level ground or nose down.
:beer
next challenge
it seems there is a noise coming from where the main pully is located. it sounds like a knock. am i right in thinking it is the big end bearing and if so what now. does it mean a full rebuild or something a little bit easier. not bad for a motor that was meant to have a full rebuild. seems i got ripped off by the guy who sold it to us.
for a hands free Baby bottle holder check out
http://www.babygear4u.comif you ran it for to long with alot of fuel in the oil it would have taken the bottem end out as the fuel will make the oil very thin even if it was thick to start with and if the bottem end is stuffed its off to get a rebuild for that motor
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
or it could be the cam gear bolts coming lose but if this noise just started it wont be them
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
it ran for about 5 minutes with the oil fuel mixture. just enough to stuff it i guess
for a hands free Baby bottle holder check out
http://www.babygear4u.comsurely not. 5 min no load. surley couldnt be the "cause" of the prob. could be a contributor but arnt these motors old tech and able to deal with a bit of fuzzy tolerance...
i'll defer to experts tho....
the reason i say this is when we used to send our dirt bikes swiiming and the oil after the days ride getting home, would be milk and cream, we used to do a couple of engine flushes with deisel (fill and start and warm up and drop) and then one of cheap oil and then the keeper oil. never took any life off the bike air cooled bike motors.
If the oil was thin to start with and then add a few liters of fuel it would be like water almost and if the engine had wear to start with id say that would be the thing that killed it
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
Check your oil pressure with a good gauge. If the bearing is on the way out, it will show.
Grahame
visit my club site at
www.vwdcqinc.org.auStart with the basics dude.
How's your oil pressure??? A good indicator of wear and low pressure will make it noisier.
Next grab the pully and push/pull on it, make sure it's in neutral and give a little turn left/right first to make sure it's free. You should feel no movement (end play). This is the first sign of wear in the mains. Next is to push up/down to see if you feel any radial play. This needs a good jerk each way to feel if there is any. If you can feel radial play the mains are knackered.
If you only have end play it can be made up with shims (needs dropping the motor and remove flywheel).
It's a very crude method but is an indicator. If that's all solid it could still be big/small end on the con rods or cam/cam gear etc.
Checking the con rods is a head off job, cam is a split case job so to check fairly major!!
:blush
