hey all.. just wanting to know how you change the engine size?
i have a 1600.. dunno if it is 15** or 164*.. but i want to turn it into a 1776.. as i can't use anything bigger because of the semi-auto transmission..
can i do it at all?
i plan to do it myself - kind of as a learning experience.. cos i dont know anything about engines at this point.. thanks guys! 🙂
Tagedeezee Heezy
1776 uses larger barrells & pistons, 90.5mm, with the standard size 69mm crank. To do this the case & heads will need to be machined to accept the larger cylinders. While your'e at it, it would be a good idea to also upgrade the heads, cam, carbs etc then you will get even more power increase still with good mileage & reliability if its done well.
Not sure how all this affects the semi auto though
1954 Oval long term project going nowhere
1958 Beetle drag car project
1959 Beetle project I need to sell one day
1969 Squareback
Hi
Semi autos will take 2 litres no worries.
Steve
interesting... but machineing the case/heads to accomodate 2litre specs is a bit far isnt it? make the walls too thin?
so the case heads need to be machined.. then pretty much everything else gets replaced, yeah?
Tagedeezee Heezy
Damo it could be cheaper to just find a 2l and convert it to upright. Have you considered just getting some 1641 pistons and cylinders? At least you don't have to split the case then.
i'v got a spare engine, that im bringing home tomorrow rob, just thought i'd rip it all apart, see if i can get it a bit bigger,and hope i can get ahold of that weber.. then just get one of the guys at work to chuck it in Adolf...
1641 bits and bobs sound like the easiest way to go hey?
thing is i dunno if the engine is already a 1641 or not :S
Tagedeezee Heezy
Hi
1641 barrels are extremly thin, you will get blowby after a few years, either stay stock or 1776 or 1916.
Steve
if i just go from a stock pict carby to a single weber, is it worth my time/money? on my stock 1600?
Tagedeezee Heezy
Hi
A set of extractors and a 2 barrel carb will give about 40 % improvement.
Steve
Take into account that the semi-auto has some extra vacuum tubes and crap. To make it work right they have to be connected up, just a thought before you swap over the carb from the stock one...
semi-auto stuff connects to the carby?
i know there is a pump or somthing in the top left hand corner of the engine bay - preventing rubbing a dual carb setup...
Tagedeezee Heezy
I was checking out my GF's car the other day and there seemed to be a few extra pipes going places than on my 1600. Maybe I was looking at the manifold, which would also need to be changed for a weber.
Hi
The semi auto only needs vacuum to operate, its not hard, a paraplegic friend of mine runs a 1916 with twin Webbers in a rally car. Vacuum control in the left of the engine bay can be relocated under the back seat.
Steve
^
that looks like a good possible option for you damo?
I checked out my girls semi-auto this morning. I was kinda wrong, but not completely. There is two vacuum hoses going to the semi-auto controller, one from the carb and one from the manifold. That's it. If you were to relocate the controller and run dual carbs I guess you would just need vacuum balance pipes...
thanks for the help guys... i think due to the fact that im a (just turned) second year apprentice, with an extremely limited budget - and wanting to other bits and pieces, aswell as live comfortably i am going to go for the single webber, and get a mate to possibly do me some extractors/exhaust somwhere down the track, so i get a moderate gain, for minimal cost, and hopfully not go through too much extra petrol... :| maybe when im a painter, and i make some $$$ (yes i'll still have the bug - written off or not 😉 ) then i may look at some seriouse power for it 🙂 along with bare metal respray lol
Tagedeezee Heezy
Nice work Steve, its been a while since I've seen on this forum, advice thats was simple and hit the nail rite on the head for a simple upgrade. An option of two engines that are achievable on a budget.
Regards
Chris
I read that below 4000 rpm (ie for normal driving) the stock carby gives more horespower than any hi-po carb on a 1600 motor. Carbs like Webers only give more horsepower than the stock carb at very high revs, so unless you're racing they are a waste of money.
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
im a p plate driver:vader
what is tuning like on a single webber? is it only duals that need to be tuned weekly?
Tagedeezee Heezy
You could also use a set of 1:25 ratio rockers.This is a bolt on horsepower mod.Stock rockers are 1:1.These ratio rockers give similar performance to a bigger cam.
They are a little expensive but can be bought second hand.Keep an eye on ebay and here.
cheers
scott
I've got a single Weber on my car. I had it tuned by a pro after stuffing around for weeks myself. Since then I have not had to touch it and it runs perfect. Has been for over a year now. If ya ever want to have a look at it just say so. I see your car all the time. I can also point you in the direction of a great Weber specialist
I have heard that 1.25 ratio rockers do jack, they reckon go 1.4:1 on a stock. No more no less, more and you need a cam change. I have not done this but plan to so I have no hands on experience yet.
Purple Martin wrote:I read that below 4000 rpm (ie for normal driving) the stock carby gives more horespower than any hi-po carb on a 1600 motor. Carbs like Webers only give more horsepower than the stock carb at very high revs, so unless you're racing they are a waste of money.
Come and drive my (borrowed) stocker 1600 with pipes, Kads and 009... it goes real nice from idle up. Harder than my 'stock' stocker!
Pay your debts, CxxT
I'd take you up on that offer if you were in Canberra. It's always good to have a go at someone else's setup.
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
2 Litres are a bit heavier than a type 1 based engine aren't they?
how do ratio rockers work?
Tagedeezee Heezy
"Ratio rockers" just have a different relationship (measurement) between the tappet face, the pushrod contact face and the rocker shaft centreline.
Put simply, less distance between the rocker shaft centre and the pushrod contact point, more distance between the rocker shaft and the tappet face means the valve is pushed down further.
More valve lift.
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
