field wrote:Hey h we've also got some footage of parko and dean morrison surfing and towing at boulders 5-6 ft we parked the boat and could see 2 jet skis heading over to us...the boyz introduce themselfves to us and joined us for a surf.mate i surfed for 1hr and had to go sit on the rocks and watch while my mate video'd the whole thing
cool man...
how good is the wave, you, ya mates n the dolphins n ya fave stick yeah.. wouldn't swap it for quids..
surfchickhangten ya pic is goin off, great ride... :thumb
yeah bben up to agnes, nice.. was in VIC last wek and went to o'donahues break at anglesea.. great time a bit cold but.. will post a pic shortly, it was a grouse line up..
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
dy point is a waste if time lol. Wait hours for a wave! Seen it today? 3ft and 100 ppl out, wat a joke! Would have been a good wave 30 years ago without the crowds. Any oldies got some stories of wat the local breaks used to be like before surfing kicked off? Enless summer material?
winerot single fins are so much fun! Really loose off the top, love just triming on hollow waves! I got a few oldies here, will take a pic later when i get back from the beach.... nothin better during the school holidays, get to laugh at all the pissed off workers coming out for their lunch time surf aswell.... "whats up with school holidays, when do these little F**kers go back to scool!" lol. nn[ Edited on 18-7-2005 by 76camper ]
Crescent Head for the easy long wave. Back beaches to Point Plomer for deserted quality waves. Mullawarra is a good break also.
At home Pellican Beach at North Entrance. Allways 1ft bigger here than anywhere else on the Central Coast.
How's it goin' Steve?
Brendan
OK Secret Spot..
I used to work down the snow for a few years and got bored of skiiing so decided to go for a wave. Trouble was its a couple of hours from Thredbo to the beach.... local bloke told me of this one (keep it secret !!)
Seems that they regularly let a bit of water spill through one of the cuaseways each morning in Lake Jindabine that makes a small groundswell across the lake... when it hits the east side of one of the islands you get a clean 2-3ft lefthander... 2 waves per day only (in other wods if you miss them you have long paddle back)...
oh and wear something warm...
daaave
gday brendan,still playing vw's..thinking of having a get together at cresent head for the lads which are interested ..maybe in late sept /oct..you in ? mate in berry just got delivery of a DRIFT knee board it was soooo flat down south we thought we were at the central coast!!! cheers steve
Steve,
I've been out of the water for 5 weeks with a rotator cuff injury. Had a 3 hour session in 5-6 ft glassy at North entrance. Last wave took off late, steep drop, very shallow.... you know the rest of the story.
This is the longest I've been out of the water for 3 years! Going to take the board out on Sat for some paddling work.
My son is also getting back in the water after 12 weeks out with a fin slash.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/GL1972/jakeslash3.bmp
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/GL1972/jakeslash2.bmp
He did this 20 minutes after getting his first tube ride. Look at his smile..morphine is a good thing!
Brendan
poor fella. nothing worse than an injury that keeps you out of the waves. Had a guy from melb when i was in samoa get cheese grated over devils island reef his whole back justed slashed up... sad thing was it his first overseas surf trip and second day there ...Would of been a very uncomfortable plane ride home.
Ive surfed with dean morrison and danny wills, the back beaches in byron...good guys, always happy to take people in the boat if they have a spare seat
hectic fin chop!!!
I got slashed up by oysters when i slipped on some rocks in nelson bay after going snorkelling a year or two ago... 28 stiches... :cry
Thought i had a pic on the pc but maybe not. if i find it will post it
Robo wrote:The Alley north Narrabeen!
Rob...
which breaks the alley? Im living in Collaroy at the moment but seem to be spending most of my time surfing the northern part of longreef.
Im a big fan of the great ocean road, Urquarts bluff can be good fun at time, but my best surfs have been around Bawley point and Mollymook
Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool
brendan thats ..lost for words ..its that big i'm sure there's a map of sydney there..poor fella...good news about getting back on the board..lets have a getogether and surf ..will keep in touch cheers steveps..where did you end up in the kombi classic?
nasty...
Try in NSW
Cowries (Shellharbour boat harbour outside front to 15ft) bodysurf under 10ft
Suicide Hole at Cape Solander, Kurnell (you now dead mobs) only bodysurf!!!!
Voodoo near Kurnell : like Margaret River all sizes.
Shark Island: bodysurf if under 10ft then belly board to 15ft plus on outside reef and yes there is one!!! You know if big enough if ghost reef breaks 3 mile off Voodoo.
Steve,
I don't know where I came. Considering I only caught one scoreable wave I don't think I was a winner. I was a lot of fun though.
We should organise a VW surf day when the weather gets warmer (for all the summer surfers).
Brendan
OMG that fin chop looked nasty..
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
surfed cowries alot, a short hollow right crowded when more than 5 people get out there because of the small take off point, anywhere around shell harbour is good the farm or if you like them alittle fat try shallows good fun with some small sucky sections at times.
but as i grew up in narooma surfing around there at the bar or if you feel like a hike in the car go down to mystery bay and go out at 1080s , then you got congo alilttle north or for something special go to blacks a heavy uncrowded right that requires a boat or a 2 hour hike if you are up for it.
i have surfed all over sydney use to go to newport all the time but mostly whale and when it was out of controll there was allways a wave in kiddies corner at palm beach around 6 ft it has to wrap around the point to get in there and as there is high cliffs all around there the wind doesnt really effect it to bad.
dont really like surfing to much anymore (in sydney) went out at long reef a couple of weeks ago was ordinary then had a family of 8 sit right on top of us , city surfers in general think they are kelly slater or something its really anoying most are kooks with massive attitudes,you wouldnt mind so much if they just enjoyed it for what it is not what they think they are
gravity wont get you high
I agree with steff, agnes waters is pretty good.
steff do u come from agnes or around there??
what sorta vw u got?
Ella
Jake (who's 12) did it on a shore dump after a 3 hour session with me. He was bellying the board in and the wave he was on met the backwash and jacked up. He tried to get off the side of the board but it nosedived into the sand and the wave threw him onto the back of it. He fractured his kneecap and cut through his quad muscle. Exposed the tendons on the inside of the knee but luckily did not sever them. He has a pretty awesome scar now. "Chicks Dig Scars!" I tell him.
Brendan
field wrote:poor fella. nothing worse than an injury that keeps you out of the waves. Had a guy from melb when i was in samoa get cheese grated over devils island reef his whole back justed slashed up... sad thing was it his first overseas surf trip and second day there ...Would of been a very uncomfortable plane ride home.
Did you stay at Samoana? We went there last May and got 7 days straight of very very nice waves. I had been once before and didn't stay at the resort so had to paddle out to boulders, coconuts etc - long f'ken paddle! Gets a little scary there sometimes but can get magic.
No real secret spots on the goldie or nth nsw unfortunately. Occasionally get the odd uncrowded bank along the fingal-pottsville stretch if you're lucky :vader
Dasdubber wrote:field wrote:poor fella. nothing worse than an injury that keeps you out of the waves. Had a guy from melb when i was in samoa get cheese grated over devils island reef his whole back justed slashed up... sad thing was it his first overseas surf trip and second day there ...Would of been a very uncomfortable plane ride home.
Did you stay at Samoana? We went there last May and got 7 days straight of very very nice waves. I had been once before and didn't stay at the resort so had to paddle out to boulders, coconuts etc - long f'ken paddle! Gets a little scary there sometimes but can get magic.
No real secret spots on the goldie or nth nsw unfortunately. Occasionally get the odd uncrowded bank along the fingal-pottsville stretch if you're lucky :vader
Yeah the first time we did and found it a bit expensive,the second time we did a home stay at unganoa just near boulders met up with some yanks who
have been going there for years and put us onto some waves that the resort keep a secert. The only thing is trying to get a boat but just key up with the locals
or suss out a few yanks.
If there are any goofy footers out there like me get over to WA...My parents use to run the Exmouth caravan park for 5 years and that place is loaded with world class lefts.Sadly no more free accomadation over there an more they moved to Melbourne🙁 but i have memories of great waves
Valla is one of the best around here.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
HT's hands down (Why? see photo)! Panaitan, One palm, napalms, playgrounds region in indo. West Java is also good.
Qld - Barrier Reef
- Nrth & Sth Strad
- Boulders
- Flinders
- DI point (Backbeach)
- Burlz
NSW - Needledicks
- Lennox (only 6ft plus tho)
- Greens
- Nrth & Sth Wall Ballina
- Iluka
I can do skids.
In the Wet.
On Oily surfaces.
Is that you 72Fasty?
Nice barrel
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
Hey Dubcrazy
Some good UK waves you mentioned,but you missed a couple of really good waves.
Leven, the best limestone reef in the UK, Lynemouth, perfect left point, Widemouth bay, just south of Bude, good on the day. Challaborough, Bantham and Bovisand reef on the south Coast. Even south Fistral on a pushing tide, if you sit in the rocks it doesn't get too busy, makes it a bit sketchy though.
Over here, I guess sunshine on a good solid day, the slab to the left of Moffats.
Then there's Canggu, Medewi, La santa, Yerbebuena (SP), Chicama, Grand Plage, Cavalier, VVF and the favourite neck and board breaker, newport
Too many to mention I guess
North Narrabeen the Alley. My local and fave when Double overhead( kneeling) or bigger when the crowd thins. This is a shot of me there in late 80s on the Tuesday of the "Big Wedenesday " swell.
23 windows ...8 too many!
Here's a thew that really go off, The Boneyard (TAS), Cronulla Pt and Fish Reef (PNG).😵
nulla point is good 😉 how bout the farm on the nsw south coast 👍
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
sweet rides of the greenroom.. bring em on.. the more the sweeta!👍
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
Snappa on a good week day👍
